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Akbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 08:30 am: | 
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One quick test: Put the bike on a stand so the rear tire is off the ground. Put the transmission in 5th gear. Pull both spark plugs.
On the right side of the engine, at the base of the V is a hex socket plug. Remove that.
Turn the engine over by hand by 'bumping' the rear wheel, in the direction of travel.
When the front cyl gets on the compression stroke, as it gets to TDC, you will see a timing mark in the 'window' on the right side of the engine, and you should ( if everything is working correctly ) hear the fuel pump cycle. If the timing mark is in the center of the window, timing is correct. And if the fuel pump Does Not cycle, then the cam position sensor is suspect. Confirming the results you got from the trouble code check.
Hope this helps, Dave |
Ratchet
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 07:05 pm: |
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Thank you. I will give that a try in the morning and let you know what I find out. |
Dhdjr
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 08:34 pm: |
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My coil recently went bad and the way I found it was by checking the input and output voltage. |
Ratchet
| | Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 04:46 pm: |
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Question for akbuell: I am going to try the procedure you outlined. Is it with the key on or does it matter?
Update on relays: I purchased an ignition relay and installed it - no change. |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 06:10 pm: |
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Ah, well, at least you now have a known good relay for a spare. Not a bad thing to store on the bike and take with you.
Get the bike set up and prepared. From the left hand side, start turning the engine over while keeping a finger over the front cyl spark plug hole. When you hear/feel air escaping, turn on the key and set the stop/run switch to run. The fuel pump should cycle. Move to the right side of the bike.
Keep bumping the rear tire to turn the engine over, while looking in the inspection port at the flywheel for the timing mark to appear. When the front piston gets to TDC, the timing mark should be in the center of the port, and the fuel pump should cycle again. If not, the most likely reason is the CPS has failed.
FWIW, years ago I had Jeep pickup, the one based on the Cherokee platform. Drove home, parked the truck in the garage, and closed the door. Went out the next morning and it would not start. The CPS had died, overnight, for no apparent reason. It does happen . . .
Hope this helps, Dave |
Ratchet
| | Posted on Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 07:54 pm: |
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I will give it a try and follow up with my results. I appreciate the information. |
Ratchet
| | Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2016 - 04:07 pm: |
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I followed the procedure outlined by akbuell. The fuel pump did cycle. I found the timing marks after a bunch of oil squirted out the hex plug opening!!
Now that it was in 5th gear I am having a horrible time getting it in neutral. I worked with it for over half an hour I am unable to get the transmission to shift to a lower gear. Right now it seems stuck in third gear. Any suggestions for getting it in neutral? |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2016 - 07:30 pm: |
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If the bike is still on the stand, push down on the lever while bumping the rear wheel back and forth. Or, put the bike back on the floor and rock it back and forth while pushing the lever. The trans needs to have a chance for the engagement dogs to line up/slide across each other.
If the fuel pump cycled when the front piston got to TDC on the compression stroke, then the CPS/CPS system is in working order. Info is getting from the ECU to the CPS and back, and the ECU is able to 'understand' the info. The problem is somewhere else. Bad coil, bad ground, bad connection or wire, failed safety switch . . . |
Ratchet
| | Posted on Sunday, April 17, 2016 - 10:35 pm: |
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Thanks for the tip about rocking the bike back n forth.
Today when I turned on the ignition to try n start it , the bike went blank when I hit the starter button. It did this a couple of times and then on the third try it would start to crank over. I wiggled the ignition by the key having no effect on it getting current. It seems like when I turn the key on, depress the clutch the fuel pump will cycle n sometimes it makes no sound. Today it would cycle intermittently. |
Ratchet
| | Posted on Monday, April 18, 2016 - 04:40 pm: |
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Got the bike back in neutral by rocking it back n forth. Once I got in in neutral, the electrical gremlins seem to have disappeared. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 - 12:24 pm: |
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Sounds like your switch is going out. Or maybe the connector behind the headlight is loose or dirty. |
Ratchet
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 - 01:20 pm: |
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Thanks to all of your help n suggestions. It started today! Yesterday I removed the ground strap from the battery to the frame. I polished the connections till they were shiny. This morning I went through Akbuell's suggestions. In the process I removed the two coil wires n re-installed them. It fired up and runs!! |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 20, 2016 - 03:17 pm: |
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Most Excellent ! ! ! |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Thursday, April 21, 2016 - 12:39 pm: |
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Good deal. The fastest way to ruin an ECM without physically breaking or cracking it is to put power to it that has no clean path to ground. Equally true for car computers. |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, April 24, 2016 - 05:21 pm: |
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FYI: Msgs sent. Dave |
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