| Author | Message | ||
     Vsingle |
Easter sunday I noticed an empty hole where the port-side motor mount bolt is supposed to be. Stuck a straw in the hole, and found only 1/2" depth of threads. Made a drill guide from a spare bolt, threaded it into the hole, drilled the broken bolt for ez-out, then unscrewed it out of the hole. Of course to get access, I had to remove the fron wheel, fender, and fork tube leg. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Nice!! I'd never thought of using another bolt as a drill guide. Of course, most bolt breakages sadly don't leave that option, But I learned a new trick! That will come in handy to others down the road too. I'll still never use an ez-out though! | ||
| Vsingle |
I am curious; what alternative to ez-outs do you prefer? Pyramid pin? Left-handed tap? Chisel punch? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Most commonly I end up using a chisel or pin punch. If I have to, I'll drill most of the bolt out then punch or pick it out. I would rather use a left handed tap, carefully, then thread in a bolt to back the broken bolt out. At least If that breaks, it can still be drilled out, though I've never had to go that far. There are certainly other methods, but anything is preferable than to rely on something that if it breaks, its near impossible to drill out. Usually, if it will come out easily with an ez-out, it will come out just as easy with a punch or left handed drill bit. Different situations can need creative solutions. I've never had (or seen) a bolt break with enough threads left to thread another bolt in behind it (even just a few threads). But the above idea has great merit and I can see its usefulness in some other "situations"!! Too often, the people who rely on an ez-out have never used them and it seems like a great idea, until it breaks off. | ||
| Vsingle |
I have never seen a bolt break mid-thread,this far below flush of the tapped hole. There was thread locker residue on the broken stub. It screwed out with barely any resistance at all however. | ||
| Vsingle |
May 24th was out for a ride and noticed the bike shaking abnormally when stopped. I knew what it was immediately: broken motor mount bolt, port side, again. This time, the bolt broke about .060" above flush. Drilled / easy-out worked again. The broken stub was still bonded in place by the loctite I used last time. I replaced both bolts with two brand new grade 8 socket head cap screws. If either of these break, I will be surprised. I have a carbide drill bit ready if needed  | ||
| Monzaracer |
If they are nearly flush, lay flat washer around hole, weld it too the broken bolt, then weld on a nut and unscrew it while hot but not red hot.if the are in deep, a flat face tap cleans up threads then drill with cobalt bit, and use an easy out. I like the shorter ones with hex head. Got mine from Snap On. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Don't say I didn't warn you about using an easy out. You're better off using a left handed bolt. Obviously, if you're buying tools of the Snap-On truck, you're more familiar with tools than the average Joe. The average Joe doesn't know what he's getting into with an easy out. | ||
| Daddyblaize |
Is that bolt-hole suppose to carry or leak oil? If I'm correct the same motor mount hole and bolt just behind the front frame couple inches from the horn, I noticed mine was loosely bolted to the cylinder head leaking oil through the threads it seemed.... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No, it shouldn't leak anything. | ||
| Swampy |
You probably have a rocker box gasket leaking. If the bolt is loose you will probably have to repair the hole with a Helicoil. The reason being is once that bolt hole elongates the vibrations will just break the bolt off again. There are a few posts on this in the knowledge vault. The only bolts you don't want to check or retighten are the bolts holding the "Do Not Remove" bracket to the head. I have replaced lots of the bolts and the only thing that will keep them from re-breaking is to helicoil the holes and follow the repair manual proceedure for replacing the bolts, basicly replace bolts with factory, red hi-temp locktite after installing the helicoilS then torquing them to spec and leaving them alone. I think what happens is everybody follows the old procedure of putting a wrench on every bolt and nut on a motorcycle which is still OK...Just not so on those bolts because you break the locktite and the bolt starts moving in the head elongating the hole. | ||
| Daddyblaize |
Oh man thank you for this info Swampy I hadn't done anything yet(waiting for new rubber and mocking up some rearsets) I will check I do see leakage at the bottom of the pushrod cover also and wonder if there's suh'm else leaking. | ||
| Daddyblaize |
BTW is there a good way to get to that bolt...I quarter turned it with a (5/8ths)box-wrench but that was all I could do. Went out and bought some crow-foot wrenches (YAY NEW TOOLS!!!) but still couldn't get at it. Do I really need to split the bike in half(SEPARATE DRIVETRAIN FROM FRAME) just to get at this bolt? |
