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Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 09:54 am: | 
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my floor was pretty pitted, so any kind of staining was really out of the question for me. I had to patch all the little holes before I put down the tiles, and seal some cracks, and all of that would've shown through if I had just stained and clear coated it. We redid one of the rooms in the basement as a tool room, and I used garage floor epoxy, with the paint chips and clear coat. It came out really nice. I debated doing something similar to the garage floor, but I didn't feel like it would've been as durable as the VCT. Like I said, my only regret was doing it in white, but as long as I keep up with it, it should look nice enough.
I found another picture on my phone that showed the bike at more of a side angle, and it definitely looks like the bolts are at the top of the frame opening, so I added them to my list.... $140 for some pieces of rubber?? sheesh! I saw them on American Sportbike as well, should I hurry up and order them from there before they close, or are they available from other places too? I'll eventually need to compile a list of the kinds of parts that'll be extinct someday so I can stock up on them now. I know a lot of parts are compatible from sportsters, and a lot of other random parts can be made or modified from other bikes, but I know stuff like the isolators are just going to be buell specific so I assume it wouldn't hurt to get a second part and just leave them on the shelf should I need them 15-20 years from now. I have a whole assortment of parts laying around that have been destined for ebay for over a year now... leftover parts from past motorcycles. I better make some time this week to get all that stuff on ebay so I can fund what turned into a new project haha.
(Message edited by upthemaiden on February 24, 2016) |
Ralph
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 01:37 pm: |
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Adjusting your primary chain may take care of your shifting. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 01:50 pm: |
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Good to know. I already put a new primary chain adjuster on my shopping list, so I'll make sure to check that one out.
It's amazing how every time I find a vehicle I like, I think "I like this one so much, I'd actually be satisfied to leave it how it is", then within days of owning it I already have a whole shopping list. This whole list is pretty much maintenance stuff though. I don't think I have any "just because" items on the list. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 04:19 pm: |
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Yes, I would get them from American Sport Bike. They should have them in stock. Get all you can from American Sport Bike. They will treat you right. They do have some odd rules about first time orders, which I can't remember right now, but it'll be clear when you check out. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 04:21 pm: |
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Manual specs are a bit tight for primary chain. Go another 1/4 inch looser. And then adjust it again after 300-500 miles. It will have bedded into the shoe by then, and loosened up some more. After that it's pretty stable. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 08:34 pm: |
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I was gonna try to order them tonight but I realized I forgot my shopping list on my desk at work. As far as general upgrades(that will be hard to find once American Sport Bike is closed)... Isolators, primary chain adjusters, oil pump drive gear(not positive what it's called). I know fork seals, oil, brake fluid, pads, a brake rotor, can all be bought anywhere. Anything else you guys strongly recommend? I just want to hurry and order in the next day or two before American Sport Bike might close so I haven't gotten time to thoroughly research all the recommended upgrades. |
651lance
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 08:55 pm: |
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We carry a large inventory of Buell parts instock and still get parts in on a regular basis. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 09:11 pm: |
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Lance: that's good to hear... Are you from American Sport Bike and you guys still have stuff, or are you from a different shop? |
651lance
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 09:21 pm: |
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I'm with St. Paul HD. We helped Al with parts for years and carry over 90k in Buell parts at this time and keep ordering more everyday. Yes I'm with a dealership and yes we do care about Buell, ride them, and also service them. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 09:31 pm: |
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That's awesome. As I assume you picked up on from this thread, I'm new around here(although I did have an XB years ago), definitely glad to find some resources like you guys for parts.
Just curious, when you say you keep ordering more every day, where do you guys get parts from? is there still some stuff that HD is making? I had assumed that source had dried up and I'd be on my own for parts. Are you guys the dealership at stpauldhd.com? How do I go about ordering parts from you guys if I need them? I see an online parts request on the website, or do you just call in and ask for you? |
651lance
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 09:43 pm: |
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HD is still making some parts for the tubers, they are getting limited. We buy out dealers that don't want the inventory anymore and buy parts in bulk before they get scraped at some warehouses. You can contact me at my desk at 651-264-3364 or email lkugler@stpaulhd.com. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 - 10:54 pm: |
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Here are the isolators, like I said the bolts are more at the back than they are the top or bottom, but I'll still assume they need replaced
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Hootowl
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2016 - 11:51 am: |
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They appear to have rotated. There's just a little pin that keeps them from spinning in the frame. They don't appear to be torn, but I would get new ones anyway. With them spun, the engine and frame are out of alignment, which could cause front engine mount issues. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2016 - 12:38 pm: |
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They look a little rough, I think I'll just order some new ones anyway. Might take me a little time to get them on because it's going to be a busy spring, but at least I'll have them.
You guys know anything about turn signal wiring? Currently the right side signals flash fine, and the left side isn't doing anything(you can't even hear the relay tick). At first I thought it might've been the relay, which I planned on replacing anyway since my signals are going to be LED, but my thinking, and let me know if I'm wrong... is that the relay doesn't know whether it's flashing the left or right signals... it goes power-flasher-handlebar controls-turn signals, right? So the fact that it's doing nothing for the left just means there's something going on with the wiring/handlebar switch, and not actually a relay issue? I saw American Sport Bike sells a 3 prong relay for the 2008 bikes, but the 96-97 bikes use a 2 prong. I'd assume the 97 wiring can't be THAT different from the 98 wiring for me to make that flasher work. I'll check around first and see if I can find a 2 prong electronic flasher, but if not I assume there's a way to make the other one work if I figure out where that 3rd wire goes. I've been searching a little but haven't found much about that one yet.
you guys have been a huge help so far |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2016 - 01:28 pm: |
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Do S1s use mechanical flashers? I thought they used an electronic module. Pretty sure the 96 did, not sure about the 98. If so, it could be a bad module. 'Course, the difference in the plug between 96-97 and 98 could be that the 98 uses a standard flasher, and the 96-907 uses a module. So you may indeed have a mechanical flasher. |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2016 - 04:47 pm: |
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If you need the rear isolators, we have them in stock, see http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/A17021
We're still in business for the next 1.5 months or so. Our last shipments will occur in mid-April. Most of the stuff on the web site is in stock, but as we run out, I'm deleting items. Our philosophy was always to try to keep anything on our web site in stock so that folks didn't have to wait for anything. Unfortunately, that philosophy is making it harder to go out of business without losing a fortune, since we still have a lot of inventory to move through. So we sure appreciate the orders to help us move it all out prior to shutting down.
Lance at St. Paul is good people. Once we're gone, he will treat you right.
There was a recall on flashers on the early S1 models because they didn't have the proper bulb out notification properties that DOT requires. I can't remember if that recall changed the flasher to a 3 prong or not. The 3 prong Guilera flasher has been used on all 98 and laters, but I don't know if they were the recall flasher for the earlier ones. That bulb out notification property is the very thing that makes LED turn signals either flash fast or not at all. If a bulb burns out, the resistance from what would be parallel wired bulbs doubles, current is halved, and that triggers the bulb out fast flash. Load equalizer modules just add parallel resistors to lower the apparent resistance of the turn signals to allow the current to be higher. If you go that route, they must be power resistors. There's a lot of heat there. |
Oopezoo
| | Posted on Friday, February 26, 2016 - 08:11 am: |
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I had to sort out the turn signals on my '98 S1 as well. It came with them completely removed. I installed new aftermarket ones from American Sport Bike, but it was immediately obvious that I had other issues. I don't even remember what they were doing, but it wasn't right. Anyway, I ended up finding a broken wire at the flasher relay and also the relay itself was bad. The online prices for a replacement relay were F'ing nuts, so I took the original to the local autoparts store and picked out a perfect replacement for something like $6. I can check the part number on it when I get home if you like? |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Friday, February 26, 2016 - 08:20 am: |
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I'm not sure. I'll definitely wait to get mine hooked up and see how it works before I bother replacing the flasher. It has a quick flash to it now when only the rear is hooked up, so if it flashes fast when only one signal is hooked up, it appears it's made to flash faster without resistance, so LED signals might make it do the same. I'll see if having all 4 hooked up makes it work any different. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Friday, February 26, 2016 - 08:38 am: |
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The first thing on my list to resolve is the fork seal, I don't want to bother replacing the pads/rotor before I get that oil to stop leaking. I was curious though, my brakes definitely feel like the rotor is warped, but I wasn't 100% sure the oil leaking out of the fork couldn't have gotten on the rotor and pads. Is it possible that fork oil could make brakes feel that way, and new pads and a thorough rotor cleaning could help resolve it, or would any oil on the rotor just make things so slippery that the brakes didn't want to work?
(Message edited by upthemaiden on February 26, 2016) |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Friday, February 26, 2016 - 09:15 am: |
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If there's oil on them, yes, clean the rotor with brake cleaner, and replace the pads. |
Ralph
| | Posted on Friday, February 26, 2016 - 09:42 am: |
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Your S1 originally came with an iron rotor that rusts super fast (doesn't matter) and got loose on the carrier (matters). Lots of folks replaced them with factory stainless rotors (which is fine) and didn't change the brake pads (not fine) so the stainless rotor would show hard spots which made it feel warped. That's currently the "problem" I have with my S1. I'll be dealing with it later, either with a pad change (not many choices with the PM caliper) or by swapping over to the Nissin caliper (will have the correct pads to start with and more choices in pad material)....or by doing something completely different. I can't tell if your bike has the original or the first stainless iteration (they look the same from a distance (if it's rusty you'll know (I'm wearing out my parentheses button))). |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Friday, February 26, 2016 - 10:19 am: |
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A 6" piece of schedule 40 1.5" pipe, split in half lengthwise and THOROUGHLY deburred, will work on the WP40mm forks. However, don't let the PVC slide on the fork tube while driving in the seal. You wouldn't think PVC would be hard enough to scratch the hard chrome plating on the slider, but it absolutely can (DAMHIK).
When disassembling, use a heat gun on the outer tube before slide hammering the seal/lower bushing out. They can be stuck pretty good and the slide hammer action is hard on things if it fights back. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Friday, February 26, 2016 - 12:15 pm: |
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I'll assume I have the stainless rotor. The bike is in decent enough shape overall, but I think it definitely spent some of it's life out in the elements, and if the rotor was something that would rust easily, I assume it'd look worse than it does. So Nissan was the 98+ caliper, and the 96-97 bikes came with PM calipers? I didn't see any pads for the 97 bikes on American Sport Bike, I see motorcycle superstore has some EBC organic pads listed... http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/10070/i/ebc-o rganic-front-brake-pads anyone have specific recommendations for the 97 bikes since there are less options to pick from? Not overly picky about pad material. My riding is 99% commuting, so as long as they stop me smoothly, they'll be good enough.
Thanks Al, I dug around online a while and think I'll give it a shot with the 1.5" pipe. I was worried about the plastic not being heavy enough to really work like a slide hammer, but I saw people said to set the pipe so it's resting on the bottom of the fork leg and move the top half down quickly. I see cyclegear has a universal one for $50, but I feel like I'll do best to try the schedule 40 first. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2016 - 11:51 am: |
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Al: Finally working on trying to get an order together for American Sport Bike, I found the isolators and the gas cap ring. I see the shifter bushing kit says it's not able to be ordered, was this the only option for a 97 boomerang shifter that you guys had? http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/5546
Also I see some caliper rebuild kits for the 98+ nissin calipers, but it looks like you don't sell rebuild kits for the caliper on a 98, correct?
I found the intake seal kit, I see the fork seals.... which I've heard are way more expensive on the WP forks, but I'll see if I can find any online that are cheaper than $53, anyone have a link to any cheaper seals?
This is the primary chain adjuster everyone says to replace, right?
http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17132
I found some rear brake pads on your site, it looks like you only have the 98+ front pads, so I can order front pads elsewhere.
Other parts I didn't see on your site, but you might be able to find better than me:
Rubber sidestand dragger/flipper
oil pump drive gear
shift detent plate(not really sure what that is but people said it was good to replace it)
shifter bushings(aside from the brass ones out of stock)
97 brake rebuild kit |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Monday, February 29, 2016 - 07:31 pm: |
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The 5546 bushings have been unavailable for a while. There are still some OEM bushings available from Vintage Parts, we've discontinued them at this point but I could still order them if you want, would take a couple weeks to get. They're $8.78
There are no rebuild kit for the rear brembo calipers on 95-97 models, never were. There were caliper rebuild kits for 95-97 PM front calipers, we're sold out and they are obsolete, no more at HD OR vintage parts. But they were just seals, not seals and pistons like the Nissins.
Yup, 17132 is the replacement chain tensioner. It is a drag specialties part that does have the thicker bracket.
We've sold out on the pads for the 95-97 PM calipers. The front EBC pads are FA210. We could order them still, could have them here in a day or two generally, $42.95 for the set.
The kickstand dragger is obsolete, not available.
We're sold out on the Oil Pump drive gear, but I can still get it. They're $93.83. Note that you need to have your rocker boxes off to remove the cam cover.
I don't have the revised detent plate. It's an HD part, so I can't get it. Lance could, though. |
Oopezoo
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2016 - 07:46 am: |
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That detent plate is "typically" in stock at most HD dealers as it is used on the Sportsters. I think it was something in the neighborhood of $7. Make sure to replace the E-clip that holds it on as well.
I've read many posts complaining about how bad these bikes shift, but I don't think they shift bad at all......at least mine doesn't. I mean, it ain't a Honda but its as least as good as any of the BMW's I've had (not something to brag about). The new detent plate just gives it the feeling of a more positive engagement in and out of gear. Not a necessity, but if you are in there its worth the $7 and a new E-clip to do it. |
651lance
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2016 - 08:03 am: |
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We have found If you set your clutch cable up correctly and use Amsoil V-Twin 20w50 in the transmission the stiffing is smoother. Most people when setting up the clutch cable end play don't adjust it at the clutch first then pull the slack out with the cable adjuster.
If you are replacing your detent plate check your shifter pawl adjustment and replace your shifter pawl spring. |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2016 - 11:09 am: |
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Typically I'm not one to be picky about shifting, but this bike feels like I'm trying to shift a wet sponge. I'd expect it to be a little sloppier than my old XB, but it's a world of difference. I haven't gotten to adjust any of the cables, primary chain, or any parts of the shifter, so I'm sure it'll help when I do, but I think it'll definitely benefit from the detent plate. Thanks for the heads up about the sportsters. I saw some around online and was wondering if they were the same part since they looked the same. Are there different detent plates from sportsters, or are they all the same? For the $7, I might as well stick a new one in there. The clutch cable definitely needs looked over because it's dripping a drop of oil every so often, I didn't disconnect it from the engine cover yet to see what all is involved, but I'm assuming there's a washer or o-ring in there that needs replaced too.
I found a brass bushing that's very close to the stock plastic piece for the shifter. I grabbed it and I'm gonna see if I can trim it down a tiny bit to make it fit. If not I'll see about just getting some new plastic bushings.
So far I got my breather fitting replaced, got my front turn signals in the mail, think I may need to replace my left handlebar controls though. I picked up some fork oil and am waiting on some fork seals to come in the mail. I found some with the same dimensions(40mmx50mmx10.5 from what I've found on this forum) from a KTM that were only $12. I figured it was worth trying those out first, and if they're not sealing well, then I'll spend the $50 on the oem seals. Just need to rebuild the fork and replace the pads, and hopefully I can clean up the rotor to get it on the road. Once I get to that point I'll see if the rotor is actually warped, or just suffering from bad pads or being contaminated from the fork oil leaking on everything. |
Oopezoo
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 01, 2016 - 11:51 am: |
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The newer detent plate is HD part # 33656-90A
This might help
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/33014.html#POST162323 |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 11:56 pm: |
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Got my order today! Thanks for the help. I've got everything I need to get this bike working properly, now I just need the time to be able to mess with it.... |
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