| Author | Message | ||
     Torquesauce |
Hey Badweb, novel inbound. 2009 - 1125R Moving the bike around this weekend I noticed a quick "hiss" sound when I would let the clutch out (WITH NO ENGINE RUNNING) it just sounds like air escaping - super quiet and you wouldn't hear it if you were talking or had a helmet on. It was coming from the clutch cover (I thought it was at the puck; read on). I was pretty low on fluid at the master cylinder and I knew was suffering from clutch weep... I had an EBR Clutch Actuator Cylinder laying around for a rainy day project; decided it was time. I ALSO needed to replace my clutch master cylinder due to a tip over from a few years back. So I dove in: 1. Replaced the actuator cylinder first, put everything back together and cleaned up. 2. Replaced the Master Cylinder and prepared to bleed the clutch line... I followed this video to a T for the replacement and the bleed process. I've seen this video referenced here before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks Got the line bled and started getting a stiffer clutch lever again. No more bubbles in the Master Cylinder and I was only getting DOT 4 out of the bleeder valve at the clutch. I noticed my clutch lever was getting insanely stiff. I know these bikes have a strong clutch pull, but I was actually getting worn out working the clutch. So I figured I'd set the bike down off the stand and see if the clutch was disengaging when I pulled the lever; nada, cannot move the bike outside of neutral. There is VERY LITTLE difference between lever in and lever out. HOWEVER, I can see the actuator cylinder moving as I pulled the puck back off to inspect. As an additional note, I'm getting the "hiss" noise at the clutch over when I let out on the clutch lever again, this cropped up again as the clutch started stiffening up. I assumed it was normal operation as the actuator cylinder has to move air on one side and fluid on the other. Further investigation shows that this "Hiss" sound is coming from a small hole in the inner diaphragm cover (hole is about 7/64" in diameter). I've run a few fluid ounces of Dot 4 through the system (filling at Master Cylinder and bleeding at bleeder on clutch cover). I'm not getting any air at the master cylinder (it spurts back at me when I first pull the lever, as it does in the video referenced above). SO TO SUMMARIZE BECAUSE THATS A LOT OF TEXT 1. Replaced Clutch Actuator Cylinder 2. Replaced Clutch Master Cylinder 3. Bled Line 4. Clutch is now stiff 5. Clutch will not "Disengage" (i.e. I cannot move bike outside of Neutral) 6. "Hiss" sound is coming from 7/64" hole in diaphragm cover (happened before and after repair) Hole referenced in #6 looks to be from the factory, though its slipped past me till now. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot Badweb? I hate hydraulic systems but this seems like it should have been so much easier. | ||
| Stevel |
I suspect that you are not getting adequate travel at the actuator rod. (This can be verified by removing the clutch cover and observing the pressure plate motion) Of course, the travel at the slave cylinder will be a product of the oil volume moved by the master cylinder, but the travel may not be in the correct place, so check the actuator piston/pushrod length. Remember also that the actuator piston is also pulled by engine vacuum. In that light, the clutch will operate stiffer with the engine not running (no vacuum) | ||
| Torquesauce |
Thanks Stevel, So with that in mind how would that be adjusted? Everything went in as it came out and everything was tightened down (needs a torque wrench though). Would low engine oil cause this? I lost a bit when the oil seal popped as I was replacing the slave cylinder. Thanks Again! (Message edited by torquesauce on March 21, 2016) | ||
| Stevel |
It has been awhile since I have been in there, but I believe it is a simple adjustment of the rod length or you left out a bearing ball or something. Check a parts breakdown drawing and make sure all your parts are there. | ||
| Torquesauce |
I never got past the clutch diaphragm for the repair so no missing bearings or anything. I think I'm going to pick up a vacuum pump and try to really bleed the line the right way. I'm wondering if I don't have just the slightest bit of air somewhere in the system and that's causing me all kinds of problems. Will report back - open to continued advice. | ||
| Sprintst |
What did you replace the clutch master cylinder with? Exact factory replacement, or aftermarket/better one? If you put something different on, check if it's the right size to displace the right amount of fluid | ||
| Torquesauce |
Replaced MC with factory replacement (actually came off another R) UPDATE: I picked up a heavy syringe last night and pushed DOT4 up through the system from the slave cylinder bleeder valve up through the MC. Ran a few ounces of fluid through and lever feels comfortable. Fired bike up and clutch works just fine. Apparently I had a derp moment and didn't factor in how much the vacuum assisted clutch really is assisted. With engine running I can put the bike in gear, hold the clutch, and stop the tire from spinning with my pinky finger. Test ride to commence later today. Considering problem solved.  Thanks to everyone for all the troubleshooting advice. |
