| Author | Message | ||
     Kinder |
So I changed the seals on my slave (the one in the engine cover) and changed my oil. Had problems bleeding system so stayed home to see if the vacuums assist would sort it out. Bike blew piles of white smoke for a few mins then calmed down. Clutch didn't work still so I opened the reservoir again and no fluid. Bled system again, started bike and poles of smoke again, and clutch fluid was done again. I suspect the seal I got were the wrong size and the fluid for past the slave and into the oil. Is this possible? | ||
| Bubba_ |
not sure if its the same issue but... - when i did my clutch upgrade (fix the weep); the 1st attempt - i didnt secure it properly in the notch on the housing piece; careless on my part. anyways, the bleeding process wasnt quite right. keep seeing air. when i re-seated it properly; it bled easily. - also, once i had let the bike sit a bit; cant remember if i had done an oil change or what - but on start up;, tons of white smoke! i freaked.. Froggy just laughed and said it was steam from some water condensation that had built up over time. again, not sayin thats what you're seeing; just fyi | ||
| Nuts4mc |
yes...your "oil" MAY now be contaminated with brake fluid (the brake fluid is glycol based (like anti freeze) see if this youtube video helps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks The vacuum diaphragm MAY have kept the hydraulic fluid from mixing with the engine oil...but the vacuum diaphragm is connected to engine vacuum...the engine sucked in the fluid that leaked past the seal and burned it up during combustion = white smoke ( White smoke = anti freeze, Blue smoke = oil) if the seal is leaking - you're clutch should NOT work...you can't bleed the air out of the system...don't try it again until you get a firm clutch lever after bleeding...hope this helps | ||
| Kinder |
Def white smoke and clutch not working. I ordered new seals as close to the sizes I found online that I could. Couldn't find anywhere to buy them and my local HD store had been less than helpful. "It's a discontinued bike so why would we carry anything for it?" mentality. Old seals were fused together which is why I had such a stiff lever pull I presume. Thinking maybe the o-rings gave way as they are not the exact size. Maybe I should just order the oberon unit.  | ||
| Hughlysses |
On the plus side, your combustion chambers are probably REALLY clean now after burning all that brake fluid. | ||
| Kinder |
As long "really clean" is the only thing.  | ||
| Kinder |
As long "really clean" is the only thing. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
the HD (warrentee) fix is P/N X2086.1AM...New Castle HD on-line parts site shows in stock at $187 (US)( mine is still working weep free for a few years now)...I see you're a neighbor to our north (Eh?)..had the opportunity to ride in a rally last year with a check point at the HD dealer in Kamloops...Check point closed at 8pm, as we just rolled in...they stayed open for us and even a few more minutes to check in the riders behind us... appeared to be a class act dealer...might give them a try. If you try to replace "O-rings" - they are metric in size...some auto parts stores have them, McMaster-Carr has them as well ( gotta buy a large qty tho)... most O-rings are made from Nitrile or Buna-N with the engine heat these may swell over time and cause the action in your slave cylinder to "seize"... but what you want are O rings made from EPDM material-they are compatible with brake fluid and hold their size...hope this helps (Message edited by nuts4mc on March 16, 2016) | ||
| Mhpalin |
Hi Michael I am up in Edm and have a brand new EBR slave cyl in my parts bin plus lot's of other stuff text me at 587 988 2237 Mike  |
