Any help on my 1125CR? Battery read 12.3 Vdc before I started trying.
Replaced the sprag clutch, sprag housing, and starting gear recently.
Tach doesn't work because she left me stranded again and I admittedly let my temper get the best of me. Knuckle sandwich right to the tach, which cracked the clear plastic a bit and left the needle useless. All other elements of the IC work, though. Doh.
When I crank, I hear lots of clicking and sometimes hear a high-pitched electronic sound like a camera's flash charging up (other than the fuel pump trying to keep up). The pistons never make it over the hump.
It was about 55 F after sitting in the sun all morning. Battery was on the tender overnight. Checked most of the connections for tightness (I think I'm stripping out the battery terminals they're so tight).
Going to dig in deeper with the multimeter tonight.
Dang, I go through batteries like they're nothing. I think this one has less than 300 starts on it total over two years... or has it only been a year? Time to go through my receipts, maybe this can be a freebie replacement.
Figures: the battery in my Deere 455 just went limp, too.
Thanks for the feedback, guys, I'll report back after a few load tests.
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Battery condition can be determined by a voltage test, a conductance test, or a load test. A battery may be tested, whether fully charged or not, using the conductance test. However, the battery must be fully charged to perform a load test. VOLTMETER TEST The voltmeter test provides a general indication of battery state of charge or condition. Check the voltage of the battery to make sure it is in a 100% fully charged condition. Refer to Table 3-5. If the open circuit (disconnected) voltage reading is below 12.6V, charge the battery and then recheck the voltage after the battery has set for one to two hours. If the voltage reading is 12.7V or above, perform the 3.4 BATTERY TESTING, Load Test. Table 3-5.Voltmeter Test For Battery Charge Conditions VOLTAGE STATE OF CHARGE 12.7 100% 12.6 75% 12.3 50% 12.0 25% 11.8 0%
Also even thou the battery has over 12v check with meter right on battery terminals while trying to crank over, my guess is it drops to around 10v which means your battery is pooched and doesn't have enough juice under load.
Also I have a cluster from a 2008 1125r with about 10000kms on display if your interested? Make a fair offer and its yours as mine has no knuckle damage lol
The prior battery I bought was an expensive name brand that went bad within a year when one cell died. I replaced it with the cheapest one I could find on ebay which has been working fine for six months. I'll be much less aggravated if/when this one dies.
Hooked her up to the car for a jump and it turned right over. Didn't think 0.4 Vdc would make a difference, but it sure does.
I'm about to get married, Duncan, so I have very little to spend right now. Even the battery will have to wait for a bit. I'll keep it in mind if I come across some extra. Would an 1125R IC swap over to a CR?
You can have all the voltage in the world but without sufficient current the bike will never start. That .4 VDC is relative to about 50% of the cranking amps.
If the resting voltage is at 12.3 or lower the battery needs to be replaced. No question about it.
Josh, I THINK they are the same IC but I'm not 100% but I'm sure the members here could confirm for sure. I have it just sitting in my toolbox so if you decide in the future you might want it I will probably still have it lol. Congrats on the upcoming wedding!
Thanks man! I borrowed another confirmed-good battery and it started like a champ. Whew. Thought I was going to lose my spring riding to troubleshooting!