Author |
Message |
Hunger
| Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 - 06:17 pm: |
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Apologies for dumb question but it's the first time I mess with spark plugs. I did not looked closely before removing and now I don't know how the far down the rubber boot should go. Please look at the photo, is that enough? It seems to resist at this point and I don't want to push it more down by force, not to damage the plug. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1WuX8MwMI1ccFVxc nJicUVRbkxhZHphajhvUGJxcEQyaXQw/view Cheers! |
Tootal
| Posted on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 - 06:41 pm: |
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You should feel or hear a click when the internal spring clamp snaps on the plug. The wire can move in the boot on most wires. If yours moves in the boot then try using WD 40 to lubricate the wire and slide the boot back. Connect the wire to the plug so you can see it's on correctly and then slide the boot back down. If the boot won't slide on the wire then you have to feel it snap on, or hear it. That's not easy on the rear plug I know. |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 - 12:52 am: |
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The front boot actually looks like it's on too far. But yeah, the important part is that the actual terminal "clicks" onto the end of the plug and is not just resting there. Lubricant does help the boot slide easier so you can apply more force to the terminal to get it to engage. I prefer dielectric grease though. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 - 10:07 am: |
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Hunger, You might get a better feel of how far the boot needs to engage your plug by pulling one of the boots and pushing it onto one of the plugs you removed while holding it in your hand. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 - 12:17 pm: |
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from the XBoard http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20 &aid=769 pertinent pictures are just past halfway down the page |
Hunger
| Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 - 05:55 pm: |
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Here it is! https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1WuX8MwMI1cS2tLd 3lwTmZSZTg/view?usp=sharing Thanks guys. Now.. how the hell do you install the plugs with correct torque?? There's no space at all to use a wrench. (Message edited by Hunger on October 14, 2015) |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Wednesday, October 14, 2015 - 09:56 pm: |
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Rear plug you use a swivel socket and extension on your torque wrench. The front, is there really not enough room? If so, then use a socket that has a hex head on it to engage the plug. Then use a crowfoot adaptor on the torque wrench to tighten the socket. Don't forget to reduce the torque setting according to the length of the adaptor. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Thursday, October 15, 2015 - 08:45 am: |
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I always use the swivel socket per Griff and tighten until I feel the crush washer finish being crushed. http://arrc.ebscohost.com/ebsco_static/repair-tips /8852CH07_REPLACING_SPARK_PLUGS.htm |
Hunger
| Posted on Monday, October 19, 2015 - 05:11 am: |
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All done. I know you've all been there but I just have to show off my specialized spark plug installation tool! https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1WuX8MwMI1cZGdMV 2ZwSUNhSFU/view |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Monday, October 19, 2015 - 10:05 pm: |
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Mine's black. The nice thing about that method is if the plug starts to cross thread the hose will just slip on the end, no damage done. Now wasn't that a fun job? |
Hunger
| Posted on Tuesday, October 20, 2015 - 08:21 am: |
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Sure it was. The best part was going to a garden tools supermarket and asking for a Buell spark plug installation hose. They only had futuristic transparent ones, a little slower than the black |