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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through November 09, 2015 » 1125 rear wheel removal « Previous Next »

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Zhen13
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone know what size millimeter axle wrench you need to remove rear axle?
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

22mm or 7/8" for either axle. There is an adapter in the under seat toolbag that lets you use a standard socket.
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Kruizen
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 09:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Or a six in one.
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Zhen13
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 09:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, unfortunately neither my 08r or 09cr came with the toolbags. But found the same tool on eBay but needed the correct size. So am gtg thanks.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you need to buy something new, get this:

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-15622-Drive-Hex-Socket /dp/B004W82PGS

Works great on our axles, it feels way more secure than the double nut thing in the tool bag.
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Sprintst
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 11:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't forget the allen for the set bolt under the swingarm
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Dennis_c
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 01:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



home made fits either axel and allen bolt under swingarm. Allen bolt and a nut.
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Ducbsa
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 04:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One of these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-1-4-in-20-x- 7-8-in-Zinc-Plated-Rod-Coupling-Nut-15-Pieces-1911 7/202249719
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Panshovevo
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 05:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty certain that's a misprint, and those coupling nuts are 7/16", not 7/8".

You can probably find coupling nuts with 7/8" flats, but they're most likely going to have a larger internal thread than 1/4x20.

Edited to add: Duh...7/8" is the length...



(Message edited by Panshovevo on September 30, 2015)
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Panshovevo
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 05:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Apologies for the above...I got half a dozen facet joint epidural injections this morning and have been sleeping off the sedative all afternoon.

Not entirely awake yet.
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Shawns
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 07:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A lug nut from a Toyota Tundra works as well
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Panshovevo
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just wandered through the shop looking for inspiration and found a 5 ft long piece of 7/8" hex bronze. Should be able to cut one or two out of that. ; )

I was surprised to see how short the hex section of the axle is though...the bronze may or may not be hard enough, depending on how much torque it takes to break the axle loose.

I haven't looked to see if the manual calls for anti-seize on the axle threads or not, but hopefully it does.
Guess I'll find out.

I need to change the fuel pump in the CR, and the wheel bearings in the R, so I'll be getting to know the rear end of both of them.
Probably ought to change the swing arm bearings in the R while I'm at it, and the front wheel bearings too.
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Sprintst
Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just get a universal one, so you can do friends bikes too

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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 12:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is one of my "pet peeves".
All XB and later Buells have pinch bolts on BOTH axles.

DO NOT TORQUE AXLES !!!!!!!!!
Tighten until SNUG(2-5 ft-lb) and Torque the pinch bolts.
"Paint" the whole axle with Never-Seize to kill oxidation.

Orange or Black dust-cap bearings will live damn near forever if you don't over-torque them.

Off my soapbox...
Z
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