| Author |
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Berkshire
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 07, 2008 - 02:37 pm: | 
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not to change the subject, but...
BUELL "Pro Series" Spark Plug Failure
My Buell "Pro Series" spark plug has come undone! After removing the plug for inspection & cleaning and then reinstalling, I went to wipe off the porcelain with a paper towel before snapping the wire back on. Much to my surprise, the porcelain TURNED.
I removed the plug and tried to twist it again - it seemed OK, so I figured my imagination was playing a trick on me, and reinstalled the plug. Lo and behold, the porcelain was loose again. The insulator and metal nipple-thing on top could be turned completely around in either direction, while the metal base remained tightened down!
Oh well - better than stripped plug threads in the head...
I loosened the plug from the head, and the porcelain was once again "locked in" with the metal base of the plug - apparantly when it's tightened down to the head, something distorts inside the plug and it loosens up.
I noticed some black sooty looking grime on the porcelain, right down where it comes out of the metal base. I'd assumed it was just road grime that was deposited on the part of the porcelain below where the boot on the plug wire covered it, but then I remembered a night ride where I'd heard a "pop!" and seen a small flash on the left side. I'd thought THAT was just my imagination too, but now it all makes sense. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 07, 2008 - 02:59 pm: |
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Yes - the porcelain is the week point now a days on all spark plugs of premium mfgr, and will probably be why my Iridium will not last forever - vibration taking its toll sooner or later on the porcelain.
EZ |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2011 - 07:35 pm: |
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OK, finally got it. Putting it in tomorrow. Here's a pic of it for anyone else that comes along these boards later on. Thanks again for the info EZ.
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Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, June 09, 2011 - 08:53 pm: |
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unscrew the tip, add a drop or two of red locktite to the base area of the solenoid screw near the porcelain screw back on, then install - Your going to really like that plug!
EZ |
Packnrat
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 01:48 pm: |
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another question about what plug is good to go.
the bike came with a "NGK" DCPR7E.
i ordered a plug via mail and received a "NGK" DPR9EA with a 9 under this number.
both plugs have a large cap "R" under the NGK.
and both plugs use a different sized wrench to work it with. 16mm-18mm.
. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 03:16 pm: |
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The 9 is the correct heat range - 7 is too hot.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 18, 2011 - 10:10 pm: |
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I used to use NGK's when I wasnt using Splitfires. However the last pair I got from NGK didnt perform anywhere near as well, perhaps not even as good as the stock plugs (you'd think they were Champions! LOL!)....FWIW. |
Daddyblaize
| | Posted on Friday, September 25, 2015 - 08:41 am: |
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I'm having issues with mine also. Before anything anything it's been sputtering popping and stalling.... So I've Vance & Hines'd it, DC full elbow'd & K&N'd it....breather,bells and whistles.....DC jetted it with 175/48 and shim.... Not with the expectancy of fixing the probs but these mods were intended regardless. I found the module was loose.... Adjusted and tightened.... Still sputtering popping and stalling. Read the posts about #15N cable from Autozone and their listed stock plug I think NGK Iridium IX 6546. I noticed that the Harley plug that was on it had a positive stop when tightened.... With the NGK it seemed like I could never tighten it enough... Worried the metal is softer and I stripped it. Anyway I road for a good mile hard testing it. Thought my problems were over...big smile... Then back to sputtering popping and stalling.... I'm at my wits end...HELP!!!!!! |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, September 25, 2015 - 02:14 pm: |
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Did you adjust the idle air screw? I use the Brisk plug, Brisk 10 multispark plug -http://briskusa.com/spark_plug/br10zs_spark_plug - I think sense your ignition was loose, your timing cup may be loose as well. Try re-doing the static timing - it's not hard and will probably help after the timing cup and ignition are right.
EZ |
Daddyblaize
| | Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 10:43 am: |
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I truly didn't lean on the cup or put a wrench to it's locknut but it seemed finger tight enough, but perhaps that's inconclusive so I'll double check that also....what do you think about the tightening issues I'm having with the plug that was newly installed last week |
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