Author |
Message |
Zhen13
| Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 07:58 pm: |
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Anyone know what size millimeter axle wrench you need to remove rear axle? |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 08:52 pm: |
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22mm or 7/8" for either axle. There is an adapter in the under seat toolbag that lets you use a standard socket. |
Kruizen
| Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 09:13 pm: |
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Or a six in one. |
Zhen13
| Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 09:26 pm: |
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Thanks, unfortunately neither my 08r or 09cr came with the toolbags. But found the same tool on eBay but needed the correct size. So am gtg thanks. |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, September 28, 2015 - 11:36 pm: |
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If you need to buy something new, get this: http://www.amazon.com/Titan-15622-Drive-Hex-Socket /dp/B004W82PGS Works great on our axles, it feels way more secure than the double nut thing in the tool bag. |
Sprintst
| Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 11:15 pm: |
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Don't forget the allen for the set bolt under the swingarm |
Dennis_c
| Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 01:55 pm: |
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home made fits either axel and allen bolt under swingarm. Allen bolt and a nut. |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 04:58 pm: |
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One of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-1-4-in-20-x- 7-8-in-Zinc-Plated-Rod-Coupling-Nut-15-Pieces-1911 7/202249719 |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 05:29 pm: |
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Pretty certain that's a misprint, and those coupling nuts are 7/16", not 7/8". You can probably find coupling nuts with 7/8" flats, but they're most likely going to have a larger internal thread than 1/4x20. Edited to add: Duh...7/8" is the length... (Message edited by Panshovevo on September 30, 2015) |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 05:41 pm: |
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Apologies for the above...I got half a dozen facet joint epidural injections this morning and have been sleeping off the sedative all afternoon. Not entirely awake yet. |
Shawns
| Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 07:23 pm: |
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A lug nut from a Toyota Tundra works as well |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 08:11 pm: |
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I just wandered through the shop looking for inspiration and found a 5 ft long piece of 7/8" hex bronze. Should be able to cut one or two out of that. I was surprised to see how short the hex section of the axle is though...the bronze may or may not be hard enough, depending on how much torque it takes to break the axle loose. I haven't looked to see if the manual calls for anti-seize on the axle threads or not, but hopefully it does. Guess I'll find out. I need to change the fuel pump in the CR, and the wheel bearings in the R, so I'll be getting to know the rear end of both of them. Probably ought to change the swing arm bearings in the R while I'm at it, and the front wheel bearings too. |
Sprintst
| Posted on Wednesday, September 30, 2015 - 08:53 pm: |
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Just get a universal one, so you can do friends bikes too
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Zac4mac
| Posted on Thursday, October 01, 2015 - 12:20 am: |
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This is one of my "pet peeves". All XB and later Buells have pinch bolts on BOTH axles. DO NOT TORQUE AXLES !!!!!!!!! Tighten until SNUG(2-5 ft-lb) and Torque the pinch bolts. "Paint" the whole axle with Never-Seize to kill oxidation. Orange or Black dust-cap bearings will live damn near forever if you don't over-torque them. Off my soapbox... Z |