| Author | Message | ||
     Newmans3 |
Just replaced front isolator, followed directions carefully for notched frame which means it sits on top of frame. I think isolator has been torn since I got it, because now my rear cylinder exhaust pipe is against the horizontal frame section that it is parallel to. Test ride felt like engine is hard mounted to frame, extreme vibrations, my ass and produce immediately went numb. Looking for options... Should I try mounting the isolator below the frame? That is for un-notched models according to directions. This would lower the front of the engine about 1/4" at most, not sure if that is enough. Possibly a spacer between isolator and engine bracket? Should I be adjusting the tie rods so engine moves away from frame? I know the manual says not to because of alignment issues. Anyone have any suggestions? Thank you. Mike | ||
| Newmans3 |
Rear cylinder exhaust...  | ||
| Buellistic |
With out seeing it, it could be you have the isolator down side up ... Look at the pictures in your FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK ... | ||
| Newmans3 |
Just checked, think it is in correctly...  | ||
| Newmans3 |
Here is diagram from the instructions...  | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
How are your rear isolators? Looking at the frame and pipe they don't look straight with each other like I've seen on other S3's. | ||
| Newmans3 |
From the top view...  | ||
| Newmans3 |
Left isolator...  Right side...  Inspection of them, both look to be in really good shape. (Message edited by newmans3 on September 07, 2015) | ||
| Hootowl |
Your front isolator is installed correctly. The rears, I'm not so sure about. They're either shot or are in up-side-down and swapped left to right. The bolts should be noticeably near the bottom of the frame opening. Those look like the old style (no big metal ears) isolators, so they could very well have failed. New rear isolators would move your frame up a bit, which may give you the exhaust clearance you need. | ||
| Newmans3 |
Hootowl, I'll look at them again tonight, and also look for metal ears. Any tips on replacing those? Thanks for the help. | ||
| Hootowl |
On an S3/M2, which I've never done, I hear the best way is the "scott free" method. http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/una uthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html Seem pretty straight forward, and less painful than taking a bunch of stuff off the bike to lift the frame and isolators up off the swingarm mounting block. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Newmans3 Here are some pics with measurements for the tie bars. Its done in millimeters with vernier calliper. The measurements are in between the heim joints were the nut is tightened (first pic) the 40.30 / 40.39 etc is the plus minus because with taking the measurements i noticed that the tie bars are not perfectly straight anymore. number 1 is the tie bar from the mounting bracket thats on top of the engine (between the cylinder heads) I think number 3 is from the front side of the engine (on oil filter housing) And number 4 is probably from the front of the frame near the steering head. (i compared the number 4 tie bar with some from a 98 s1 and there is no matching tie bar on the s1 and the s1 frames have no tie bar near the steering head!) And so that left number 2 for the swing arm block. I hope this is clear enough ,if not let me know. Cheers!   | ||
| Newmans3 |
Wow Mees, this is some great information and should be extremely helpful. I'll be taking a look at these measurements on mine this weekend. Man, I don't know how to thank you for doing this. I'll let you know what I find. Thank you again, I really appreciate it. Cheers to you too! | ||
| Newmans3 |
Hootowl, I took a look and my rear isolators, and they are definitely the old style. Couldn't find metal ears, and look just like the ones shown in my manual. There are no visible tears in the rubber, they still look healthy. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Michael, Not a problem ,we are here to support and help each other   I did compare the tie bars from the S1 with this from a S3 ,and they have almost (99%)the same measurements. So probably all the tube frame buells have the tie bars at the same lengths. | ||
| Hootowl |
I'll take pics of my rear isolators when I get home so you can see where the bolts should be. Yours look a bit off, indicating that maybe yours, while not torn, are sagging, possibly enough to cause the frame to come down and touch the header. There isn't much clearance to begin with, so a quarter of an inch might be key. | ||
| Hootowl |
See how the bolt appears to be all the way at the bottom? It actually is in the center of the inside of the isolator, but since the isolator slopes upwards as it goes out, the bolt appears to be at the bottom. Well, I guess it is, in relation to the opening on the outside. From the pictures you've posted, granted they may not show the correct perspective, it sure looks like your isolators have sagged, or aren't installed correctly. Or maybe they've rotated. I think installing new isolators will fix your frame to header clearance issues.  | ||
| Newmans3 |
Hootowl, Wow, those are in a completely different position than mine! As far as mine rotating, I thought there was a pin locating them? Maybe they are in backwards as you mentioned. Man, better get new style ordered. Thank you! | ||
| Newmans3 |
BinB, Thank you, with that info I have ruled out the tie bars, mine were just about exact matches to yours. Looks like replacing rear isolators is in my future! Again, I really appreciate all your help. Thanks. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Good to hear you working things out! I hope that new rear isolators going to fix it! | ||
| Bagmann60 |
Great thread. Anyone have a source for the updated isolators, Buell part Z0010CB? Thanks |
