| Author | Message | ||
     Rpm4x4 |
I'm running out of ideas besides just firing parts at it. It runs like a scalded dog 99 percent of the time. Recently it has been dying at random as if I hit the kill switch. I took it apart and checked for corrosion but it looks like new. I have already checked my grounds. I have also checked my battery cables. I would assume that the battery is not as good as it should be, as it is original at 34k, however, it starts the bike everyday. I have codes, U0001, Comm error P0628 fuel pump sys err,P0087fuel pr sys err, P0562 low voltage. The low voltage doesn't suprise me since when I get stuck in traffic on a hot day I see a battery light for a few seconds every now and then. The others I am not sure about. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I just switched to the stock ecm and rode it for a little over 100 miles. Just had a hunch and I figured it would be interesting to see if the same codes returned. It didn't cut out at all.Only code was o2 sensor lean which is because of my exhaust. Not happy about running the stock ecm. I hope EBR plans to build race ecms again... and soon! | ||
| Dannybuell |
my CR has the OEM battery and 22,000 miles. The bike did the exact same 2x last Saturday. 1x rolling along at 40 mph and nothing, 2x at a light and no start response for 30 seconds. I am wanting it to be the battery, ha! I have not checked for codes yet. | ||
| Stevel |
Just a thought, but check the kick stand switch. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Mine does not have a kickstand switch | ||
| Two_seasons |
Mike: As you know, I replaced my original battery one year ago. Huge difference in power, as all the sensors are happy! Small voltage changes in this bike makes this bike very unhappy. Another thing, if you don't have a "good" battery tender, then get one. I've got all HD tenders on the bikes (I think they are made by Deltran). Take it easy buddy. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Plus one on the battery. I would replace it on age alone. Battery cables need to be inspected closely as well, on both ends. I've seen Harley factory cables that looked great on the outside, yet had major corrosion under the shrink wrap on the ends, were barely making any contact, and causing serious voltage drop when starting. The more electronics a bike has, the more critical stable voltage becomes. As I said in another thread, check all grounds not only for tightness, but for clean contact as well. I've seen tight grounds that had corrosion under the terminals, and weren't making good contact. And again, check under the shrink wrap and or insulation on the terminals for corrosion on the ground wires. Edited to add that it never hurts to run a separate ground wire from the engine to the negative battery post. (Message edited by Panshovevo on September 06, 2015) | ||
| Panshovevo |
Another thing or two you might check are the headlight relay and the ignition switch. I've noticed on the 08 R model I just bought that I sometimes have to jiggle the key to get the headlight to come on, and if the light relay isn't tripped, the ignition won't fire. I haven't had the bike on the road yet, so I don't know if it's going to be a problem or not, but it seems to have the potential to be one. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Panshovevo: You can remove your ignition switch and clean the contacts. I believe there is a "key" that you will need to release the lock cylinder. American Sport Bike sells them. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I am going to buy a battery from HD on Tuesday. I'm really starting to think that the Race ecm is the problem. It hasn't missed a beat since I put the stock ecm in. I NEED a new race ecm ASAP. I strongly dislike the low rpm characteristics of the OEM ecm. I have been searching with no luck so far. Anyone know if EBR will be selling a race ecm for an 1125 again after they get the doors open again? | ||
| Panshovevo |
Two_seasons, thanks, I'll add that to the list I need to order from Al. Rpm4x4, consider a Shorai Li-Fe battery. Way lighter than stock, and zero sulfation rate. I have one in my CR, weighs less than two lbs and has more cold cranking amps than the stock battery. I would wait until I saw how it runs with a new battery before investing in a new ECM. Another thought related to Stevel's post...does a domestic harness have the connector for the side stand switch with a termination plug? I'll take a look at the schematic. (Message edited by Panshovevo on September 06, 2015) | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Cracked boards in ECMs have caused similar issues like you are experiencing. If you get a Shorai get their charger while you're at it. These batteries need to be conditioned about once a month to balance the cells. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I'm open to the Shorai battery but I have had such great experience with HD batteries. I never swapped the batteries in either of my Buells. I never think about it. I haven't even put it on a tender in several years. Seems like a bad idea to change something that works for me. It's certainly possible that the Shorai would be even better. | ||
| Stevel |
If you need a new ECM, IDS has made all of Buell's ECM. They own the IP on them and you can buy new ones directly from them. http://idspd.com/ | ||
| Panshovevo |
Terrys1980
I'll have to look into that. I've had the bike since mid-May, and haven't had any charger on it yet, let alone a Shorai charger. I was under the impression the Li-Fe didn't need a special charger, but I could be wrong. | ||
| Zac4mac |
All 1125 harnesses have the wiring for the kickstand switch. Europe or non-US have the switch, we don't. yes it has a terminator plug. Most common 08 electrical issue is broken/unsoldered ign. switch wires. I have repaired mine 4 or 5 times. Only the 08s do it(IIRC) because they(pretty sure) reduced the turn-sweep on the forks. I'm certain all the EBRs have half the sweep of my 1125R I have an 09CR at the shop, I'll check tomorrow. Z | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Well it's not the ecm. Died again. P0628 and P0087. Would the sidestand flag a fuel pump code | ||
| Panshovevo |
Pull the seat off so you can access the fuel pump connector and the fuel pressure switch. Separate the fuel pump connector, and closely examine the terminals. Look for corrosion and misalignment. Someone recommended replacing the flat connector with a Deutsch plug, which I can't argue with. But for now, if you have continuity across the plug on all four wires, when checked by probing the wires and putting an ohmmeter across the junction (with the battery disconnected), you should be good, unless one or more has a resistance reading of other than zero. The two center wires control the pump. One is hot all the time, even with the switch off. The other wire goes through the ECM to ground. The ECM controls the pump speed and thereby the pressure, by how much ground it gives. If you stick a sharp probe in the other (ground wire) wire and ground the probe, the pump should run up to max pressure and hold it there until you break the ground. You can monitor the pressure by entering Diagnostic Mode on the IC (instrument cluster). Near as I can tell, 550 KPA is the max, and 40 KPA is the minimum it will display. More in a bit. | ||
| Panshovevo |
Sorry, it got late...I'll add more tomorrow. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Panshovevo said...I was under the impression the Li-Fe didn't need a special charger, but I could be wrong. Shorai and all Li-Fe batteries require a special charger. If not a Shorai, get a Deltran charger. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Well Mike, at least you got a new battery  EBR web site, 1125r section, shows them selling race ECM again...$305. http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/ 1125r-preprogrammed-ecm-for-use-with-pump-gas.html Make sure you get the right map loaded for your exhaust. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I'm back to the race ecm again since it did it a couple more times with the original one too. I did buy a new Hd battery and tender. I considered the shorai but Ive been very pleased with the Hd one and I could get it without waiting. So far so good but the original did test out good so I don't have high hopes for the battery being the problem. The bike does crank quite a bit faster than it did before. Only time will tell if it did anything. I cannot recreate the problem at will. Sometimes it takes 3 minutes, sometimes more than an hour. I have noticed that every time is in a low rpm range. Under 4k for sure. Wait 30 seconds and refires perfectly. When it won't start, within those 30 seconds, I cannot hear the fuel pump. | ||
| Ohsoslow |
This is what was happening when the fuel pump went out on my CR. I figured this out by unhooking the vss and ridding around in diag mode on the display. just before it would die fuel pressure would drop to nothing. (Message edited by ohsoslow on September 09, 2015) | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Interesting. How hard was it to do a fuel pump? | ||
| D_adams |
Swingarm removal makes it easier. Bike needs tied down, jack up the rear end, pull the wheel and swingarm. Oil/grease the orings before reinstalling the pump to make it go back in easier. I think there's a tool for either pulling it or installing the pump, I forgot which it was. | ||
| Panshovevo |
According to Shorai, as long as the 'resting' voltage is kept above 12.866 volts (20% charge remaining), a lead acid charger is fine as long as the desulfation mode isn't used (if the charger has it) and the charge rate doesn't exceed what is marked on the battery. Mine is an 18 amp equivalent, and can be charged at up to 18 amps. If the 'resting' voltage drops below the above mentioned level, then they recommend the use of a cell balancing charger. Additionally, they recommend that if you use a standard charger for storage or maintenance charging, it has to be one that will keep the battery at a higher voltage than standard battery tenders will. Some cheap float chargers will allow the battery to drop to 12.5 volts before starting to charge again. With a Li-Fe battery, 12.5 volts is nearly dead, and requires a cell balancing charge. I have a Deltron Battery Tender Jr and a Shumacher Speed Charge (1.5 amp) I'm not sure how far either allows a sitting battery to drop, but will be finding out. Edited to add that one source I found says the Battery Tender Jr allows the battery to drop to 12:6 volts before charging resumes when in float mode. Too low for a Li-Fe battery. Still looking for the same info for the other one. Edited again to add that Deltran's performance chart states that external loads that exceed the maintenance charge rate can drop the battery as low as 12-12.5V before heavier charging resumes when in float/maintenance mode. If the battery is disconnected from any loads, it might be fine. (Message edited by Panshovevo on September 10, 2015) | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
Well I now have a confirmed fix. I bought a battery and it ran fine for nearly a whole tank of gas. Then it died and would not refire. I pushed it 2.4 miles home and checked the power and ground at the pump. It was good. I bought a new fuel pump and installed it this morning. Fired up and runs perfect. Btw, the fuel pump was super easy. 1.5 hours and I was taking my time cleaning all the hard to reach stuff. The swing arm is a lot easier than I thought to remove and install. | ||
| Zhen13 |
Congrats on fixing the bike. Nothing more frustrating than an intermittent problem. I am getting ready to replace the fuel pump on my 1125r. Is it absolutely necessary to remove the swingarm for the procedure? What did you use to support the bike with the wheel and swingarm off? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
I own an engine puller so a removed the rear plastics and used two straps to hang the bike from the tail and headset. It is necessary to remove the swingarm, however if you can remove the rear wheel, you can remove the swingarm. It's mounted the same way. Be careful with the swingarm once the shock is unhooked. It can travel further than designed and can scratch the side of it in the foot guard. There is also a hole in the center of the fuel pump module. I threaded a bolt into it to aid in the removal. Also it is held in with a snap ring, so be sure to have a snap ring pliars. | ||
| Zhen13 |
When you say engine puller. Are you talking about a car engine hoist? And if so did you put the front end on a bike stand? I don't own a hoist, but if I can pull it off in the time frame you were talking about I could rent one. Am really not to worried about pulling the wheel or the swingarm. Just need to figure out a way to support the bike while I do. Thanks for the advice and pointers. | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
 Yes a car engine hoist. I lifted it up to stand up height. No stands. I'm sure that an engine puller isn't necessary, but I own one so why not? |
