| Author | Message | ||
     Jahwarrior007 |
This has probably been asked many times before,but thought I'd ask, replacing my drive belt, took of the front sprocket cover, tire and the bolt hold the "tensioner", anyway,a bolt holding a big rubber "washer " which didn't come out or move any...now I'm stumped, took out a small Allen built on the inside too, but nothing, so...not sure what to do next...help... | ||
| Steveford |
Do you mean the r/h isolator? This is a project to replace. You need to get yourself a manual as the isolator needs to come out which means squishing the motor to the left. | ||
| Lakes |
If i broke a drive belt, i would change to a chain. no need for all that putting a chain on. | ||
| 46champ |
Changing to a chain solves the belt change problem but it does not fix the other problem. The swing arm bearings need to be cleaned inspected and greased. Most likely if your bike has any miles on it the bearings will need to be changed, and the isolators will need to be changed if cracked or tore. Did mine this spring the M2 had just about 90,000 miles, replaced all of these items. | ||
| Jahwarrior007 |
@ Steveford, yeah, I'm guessing that's the r/h isolator...@lakes, well, that's an idea, although I did buy the belt already. So, now that I know that I'm up s**t creek, I'll have to decide what my next step is...as as far as a manual, I was using a sporty manual, for guidance, not a good idea. @lakes, the switching over idea, I'm guessing you've already done that, besides lakes, any advice on the chain conversion, sprocket tooth sizes, etc. I've got a '99 X-1, so that might be the way tho go to...thanks for all the help and, at 54, I'm probably not going back to a Harley soft tail, sure love the Buell tubers !!! | ||
| Steveford |
Here's the spreader tool so you can get the isolator to drop out: http://www.toolsource.com/rear-isolator-replacemen t-tool-buell-p-130855.html This job is such a PITA you might as well replace both isolators while you're at it. Unlike your X1, you can't just unbolt the side plate to replace the isolator and belt. Harley cost cutting, I'd imagine. | ||
| Jahwarrior007 |
Steveford, you have moved to the top of my hero's list,(for today,anyway). Might go to the chain at a later date, but for now, the belt will work. As soon as I get done here, going to order the tool. Again, I sure appreciate all the help... | ||
| Steveford |
Get a manual, too. You'll want the torque specs plus it'll walk you through the whole procedure. It's not very difficult, it's just time consuming. I can't remember if the isolator bolt has a washer or not but you want to put a drop of oil on the bolt head and/or washer so that it doesn't grip the isolator and rip out the locating dowel. If your isolators just looked like big rubber washers you'll want to stick in the new style ones while you have the chance. They're a more robust design. Someone please double check that they'll work with the old steel swing arm, please. All of my bikes have the cast aluminum ones. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
New rear isolators, with metal "wing" fit all S3s steel or aluminum swing-arm. I built and recently used a "Rear Isolator Replacement Tool". Used a large bolt cut to length so it would just fit. Put two nuts on it as one nut was not long enough. Spread only enough to allow the isolator to come out!! Service Bulletin B-016B has the best instructions. Find this or a manual. Must hoist the tail to take nearly all the weight off the back tire. Use oil or anti-seize as Steveford recommends and blue Loctite on threads. Use a marker and draw a line across the rubber. If it moves into an angle/curve, you know the isolator has moved. Torque for the new Torx style bolt is 62-70 Ft Lb. Hmmm. Maint. Manual states red Loctite and 100-110 Ft Lb for the older allen head bolts. Be patient and DO NOT CROSS THREAD!!! These are fine thread bolts, so ensure they go in absolutely straight!! Go to Americansportbike DOT com for the isolators. (Message edited by 89rs1200 on June 29, 2015) | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Found Service Bulletin B-016B http://www.ukbeg.com/downloads/files/techbulletins /Isolators96-00.pdf | ||
| Seth |
Did you get the much stronger Ulysses belt? . Not even sure the weaker belt is still available.... ...I think Mac used to see the frame spreading tool (will have to check mine when I get home). Might not be a horrible idea asking a guy on a Mac tool truck if it is still available. f.y.I., all the tool is, is a little jack that spreads the frame from the swingarm on the belt side. I am quite sure there are dozens of equally affective ways of achieving this result. | ||
| Seth |
OH!! ...and it's not just a "big rubber washer". There is also a little metal pin in there. So don't go pounding the little guy out. | ||
| S1owner |
If it has not been said you can download the manual in the knowledge vault. | ||
| Akbuell |
Certainly a late notice, but isn't there a really cool homemade spreader thread in the knowledge vault? Seem to remember a step by step, including making the tool out of an old wrench, socket, and some all thread rod, and how to use it. My personal experience at finding things in the vault has been very poor; sorry . . . Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Hootowl |
"Harley cost cutting, I'd imagine" Since the X1 came out after the S1, that's unlikely. The way I hear it, HD had a lot of input on the X1, more so than any previous model. It's possible that it's on the X1 because HD wanted it there. | ||
| 89rs1200 |
I have also seen that tool. But I tried using the same location Buell tool is used, just above the isolator. A large bolt cut to length so it would just fit. Put two nuts on it as one nut was not long enough. Much smaller tool than the old wrench and socket. Spread only enough to allow the isolator to come out!! | ||
| Renter |
Hi all, Long time. I made a frame spreader in 2006 and still have. I'll make a picture, i think it was described on the X1 files. Pity that site is down. I used it a couple of times and it works fine. Be sure to check the fitting of the metal pin in the frame, for my S1 i had to file a bit off to make the isolator lie flush against the frame. Regards, Danny | ||
| S1owner |
x1 file site is still active and it should be in this link http://www.thex1files.com | ||
| Steveford |
In that case, the lack of a removable side plate was Buell cost cutting. Either way, it really made things unnecessarily difficult. | ||
| Hootowl |
Sure did. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Steveford, Not so sure it was a cost cutting thing. Remember that the X1 was the last tuber designed and built. The M2 and S2 used the same frame, their lineage started in 1998 the X1 was released in 1999. So, technically the X1 is a more current design. To do a model change for the rest of the tubers they would have had to redesign and retool the M2 and S3. So I suppose it could be interpreted as a cost cutting thing. | ||
| S1owner |
Ok so maybe I am the1 out off 1000 but I never used the tool and on my S1 And M2 frames I could do the belt in 30 min with no issues. Use the same steps I do for changing the rear isos. Suspend rear of bike from rear sub frame and rafters Disconnect shock Disconnect link from pivot block Remove both Iso bolts Push down on swing arm and pull up on frame they will seperate Install belt Put a little lube on iso where they hit pivot block Reverse process Torque to spec Ok maybe 1 hr but no struggle! | ||
| Steveford |
By cost cutting what I meant was as soon as they could they dumped the S2's side plates and went with a welded frame just to brighten up everyone's day! I assumed that the decision was Harley's as up until then all of Erik's bikes had the side plates. I always enjoyed working on the Buells but the other "technicians" just hated them because of things like isolator replacement. I always thought that adding a 4th isolator (under the motor like the touring Harleys have) would have been a good idea. Does anyone know if Buell ever attempted such a thing? | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Steve, good call, I never thought of the S2 thing. Changing an S2 belt is a cakewalk. (If you can get the damn bolts out). | ||
| Steveford |
Put a brass drift on the bolt heads and give them a good clout from a monster hammer before you attempt to budge the bolts on those side plates. Same trick goes for brake rotor bolts. | ||
| Hootowl |
And put antiseize under the heads before you tighten them back down. It's not the threads, it's the stainless heads sticking to the aluminum. (pardon our S2 sidebar) | ||
| General_ulysses |
Isolator replacement + Frame spreader tool? Been there done that. Here's the link... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/735395.html A word of advice: once you get the old isolator out, make sure you file the retaining pin down to no more than 0.120". I didn't do that and next time it'll be a PIA to get out again. | ||
| Jahwarrior007 |
Hey brothers, just a quick note on the "fancy" isolator I bought from toolsource, used it yesterday and was just about to remove the isolator, then it gave way, needless to say, I was pissed, not only did it mess up some of the threads on the tool, but actually chipped of a piece of my frame !!! So, now back to square one, but have been reading on the homemade ones and that might be the way to go, anyway, I keep you all posted on my progress... | ||
| Buellistic |
What is not told about the FACTORY TYPE "RIGHT ISOLATOR SPECIAL TOOL" is that if you do not make up an IMPROVISED TOOL to compress the LEFT ISOLATOR you will stand a very good chance of breaking the FACTORY TYPE TOOL ... | ||
| Jahwarrior007 |
Well fellas, I attempted to use the "isolator tool" again once again yesterday evening; after getting it threaded back in, and again, right at the point of getting the "big rubber washer"  out, the handle bends, so I'm am going to try "S1owner's" suggestion, not too sure about going to a chain, I know my first Harley ('78 1/2 Fatbob) had a chain and all my others had them...so, I'll have to see how things go this week and keep reading this site. And a Damn good site I might add !!!  |
