Author |
Message |
The_dude
| Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 10:11 am: |
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Hey guys. I could use some advice on my new-to-me 2010 1125R (~1500 miles). Last weekend my gauges started blanking out at 70 MPH. I was outbound on a 3-hour trip each way. My tach went to zero. I lost the speed indicator, gear indicator and I got a COMM ERROR. The backlight stayed on. Symptoms came and went randomly for the rest of the ride. Sometimes for 3 seconds. Sometimes for ten minutes. Engine performance didn't change, so I decided it was a loose connection and kept riding. When it was working, I set the dash to monitor voltage. It was always 13.9 to 14.2. New battery, too. Next morning I checked all my connections to the ECM and behind the headlights. No loose plugs. No moisture or corrosion in the connectors. On the ride home the symptoms returned after 30 minutes of riding. Also on the ride home, the engine cut out momentarily maybe six times. Each time the excursion was over before I knew it. Engine kept running as if nothing had happened. Complicating factors: I disconnected the intake solenoid a few weeks ago. Without the resistor plug (Harley was VERY slow getting the part) the check engine light has been on, though with no other issues until now. So here's my dilemma: I think I need a new ECM. I was planning to order the EBR race ECM on the same day they closed their doors. I haven't found a stock ECM for sale. Harley says they've been getting 1125 ECM's from EBR, and EBR isn't selling anything. So I'm thinking of the Power Commander V. 1st question: Is the ECM a likely cause of my bike's issues? 2nd question: Is the PC-V a plug-and play solution for our bikes? I own a USB to ECM cable, but I've never used it. I was waiting until I had more time to spend learning how to use TunerPro. I'm taking (trailering) my bike to Colorado next weekend, and I think having a backup ECM is a really good idea. What do you think? Thank you!! (Message edited by The_Dude on June 24, 2015) (Message edited by The_Dude on June 24, 2015) |
Badgerbueller1125
| Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 10:54 am: |
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I have a stock ECM if you wanted to buy. PM me |
Rick_fears
| Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 11:00 am: |
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I very seriously doubt it is the ecm. Check your grounds, battery connections, and ignition switch wires. |
The_dude
| Posted on Wednesday, June 24, 2015 - 11:08 am: |
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Thanks Rick. A bad ground wire seems to be the consensus. That or the stator / VR. But if the ground wire was bad, wouldn't I lose the console completely? Including the backlight? |
The_dude
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2015 - 07:55 am: |
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Ground wire was really tight. I removed the screw, cleaned the contact surfaces, applied dielectric grease (prevents corrosion) and reattached. While it was off, I confirmed that a *broken* ground wire will result in no display / back light of any kind. A *loose* ground wire causes really funky things to happen. **UPDATE** So I'm riding my bike 50 miles to breakfast. 25 miles out my check engine light comes on. (It was off today because I installed my newly acquired resistor plug last night.) Less than a minute later, the tach goes to zero. No speed indicator. COMM ERROR pops up. I turned around. CEL came and went several times on the ride home. Engine blipped out once in the 50 miles since cleaning and reattaching the ground wire. From experience I know if electronics are going to fail, they'll do it when they're hot. That's what makes me think it's the ECM. I'm planning to get a PC-V anyway. I think I'll next-day it since I leave tomorrow. Does anyone know if it's plug-and-play for our bikes? |
Shawns
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2015 - 04:29 pm: |
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It could be the cluster itself. Mine went bad with no warning. It started to flash the 4 ways like the tip over sensor was triggered. Replaced it and it's been fine since then. Set your cluster to the voltage setting and watch it when you are riding. It may give you an indicator if it s a stator or VR. ECM's can be found relatively cheap, and it's a good idea to have one just in case. With the cluster going out I would start there. You have to have both functional in order for the bike to run. |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2015 - 05:40 pm: |
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Which ground wire did you check? I'm not yet intimately familiar with the electrical system of these bikes yet, but most bikes have multiple grounding points. As far as your question about the PC V, you might check with Fuel-Moto. They sell and service PC products, and I've heard they have better tech support than PC does... They also offer a longer warranty on PC products sold by them than the factory does. Alternatively, I believe I've read here that board member FiremanJim has extensive experience with the PC V on an 1125, and has multiple maps for them. Edited to add that if I'm reading you correctly, I think you're assuming the PC V takes the place of the ECM. Better check on that...I don't think that's the case. (Message edited by Panshovevo on June 25, 2015) |
The_dude
| Posted on Thursday, June 25, 2015 - 05:53 pm: |
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Yeah.. Thanks for the heads up Panshovevo. I delayed ordering the PC-V because someone else said it piggybacks on the factory ECM. Which means if I have a bad ECM, a PC-V won't fix the bike. |
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