Author |
Message |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 07:13 pm: |
|
Two spark plug questions.. 1) Is the HD 10R12X (factory original equipment)the best choice? Other options? 2) How do you get the rear plug wire off? Is there a commercial tool for pulling plug wires? Thanks, Barry Hollister, CA |
Phelan
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 07:51 pm: |
|
Edit- lysdexia got the best of me on this post, ignore the advice that was here . (Message edited by phelan on June 10, 2015) |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 08:22 pm: |
|
Bad advice this time Ross, IMO. I run 10R12X in my 09 Uly, as called for in the FSM. I had straight 10R12 for a maintenance period; not a lot different but IMO the 12X runs a little smoother. I had no idea you put 6R12 in your Uly. Please let me see your plugs after 10k miles.. I just might change my mind. Back on topic, pull the left-side scoop and you'll see the plugs. You need a T-27 to R&R the body screws, 1/4-20 thread. If you pull the airbox you can come down from above, use a piece of hose to start the plugs. If you always find the threads with your fingers, you'll never crossthread. Z |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 08:52 pm: |
|
The 10R12X from front cylinder looks great after 15k miles. Don't have the rear out yet. Think I'll replace them with 10R12X. Good advice on using a hose to start the plugs. What do you use to get the rear plug lead off the plug? Barry |
Portero72
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 09:21 pm: |
|
Barry I have used an angled spark plug wire puller I got from an auto parts store. Has a plastic coating around the jaws to lessen the chance of chewing through a wire. |
Steveford
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 09:37 pm: |
|
I always end up pulling the coil off to get some room to maneuver my fat little fingers in there. |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Tuesday, June 09, 2015 - 11:23 pm: |
|
Easiest way to change the rear plug is to rotate the engine. Unfortunate coincidence but that's what happened to me right around the scheduled time for the last two plug changes. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 04:04 am: |
|
I'll have look at it again, but I swapped out a pair of plugs in less than 15 minutes, Rotate the engine for plugs???? really? I probably used a large pair of medical forceps(hemostat). A long needle-nose pliers would be similar. Z |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 04:13 am: |
|
I'll admit, i also used a secret weapon. The factory accessory tool-bag has a shorty plug socket that is worth the price of the whole kit. it looks like this one -
Z |
Arry
| Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 01:46 pm: |
|
Yo, Did you get the plug wire off? I made a tool out of a stiff piece of wire (brazing rod). Bent a hook on the end, then bent the hook so it's perpendicular to the length of the wire. Stick this down from the air box area, so the hook is under the plug cap, then pull up. Hope this makes sense. the hard part is getting the boot back on properly (clicked onto the plug)..... |
Phelan
| Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 02:42 pm: |
|
My bad, I got the numbers backwards. 10R12 is the Cold range plug I was thinking of. Sorry about that. |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 03:32 pm: |
|
Thanks for all the input. Arry, that's just how I visualized the tool. Zac, I'll go check my tool kit. I didn't take the rear plug out as neither of the local HD dealers had the plugs in stock. That will have to wait for another day. |
Arry
| Posted on Wednesday, June 10, 2015 - 04:00 pm: |
|
Several of us are using NGK iridium plugs. Not much advantage -- potentially longer life, and available thru any auto parts store. Iridiums are expensive, is the downside. |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 12:32 am: |
|
Z, I had to rotate the engine for other reasons. Those reasons just happened at about the time the plugs were due. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 09:44 am: |
|
If anyone is ever near a Harley shop and need ULY plugs all you have to do is ask for 2009 V-Rod spark plugs. They are ULY plugs. Harley shops are everywhere but Buell/Harley shops not so much. |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 10:40 am: |
|
ask for 2009 V-Rod spark plugs. They are ULY plugs. Is there some cross reference for that? What is the HD plug number? Barry |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 10:54 am: |
|
Searching BadWeb I found that HD 10R12A is apparently the V-Rod plug. My Uly has HD 10R12X. Anybody know if the 10R12X is equivalent to the 10R12A? American Sport Bike shows the same plugs for the Ulysses and my S3T -- that is 10R12A, an NGK equivalent, and an NGK iridium plug. I'm confused. There must be a good reason for Buell to have selected/specified the 10R12X. I've got four on order from Monterey Bay HD (Salinas, CA.) Barry |
Arry
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 01:35 pm: |
|
My owners manual (2007) calls for 10R12A. Either they changed the plug spec. for newer Ulys or someone put the wrong plugs in your bike? |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 02:12 pm: |
|
My manual (2009) specifies 10R12X. Plugs are the original factory installed set. Barry |
Etennuly
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 08:04 pm: |
|
I went to the iridiums. A buddy of mine had 25,000 miles on a set when I told him they were supposed to be 10,000 service items. We pulled them, they still looked good so I now run my iridium plugs to 20,000 with no problems. My first plug change from HD on my '06 Uly the replacements were 10R12A. I use a 18" long pair of double angled needle nose pliers that I got for pulling fish hooks out of large mouth bass. A little care and a gentle squeezing twist will get that plug wire off without messing it up if you grip it just above the spark plug. I use a deep spark plug socket and a foot long Snap on wiggle end extension to get it out. Start them by finger with a piece of vacuum hose and don't forget to put never-sieze on those threads. Do not over tighten. It is much easier to go back and retighten a loose plug than it is to re-thread an aluminum head. |
Twisteduly
| Posted on Thursday, June 11, 2015 - 08:14 pm: |
|
One thing I always do is to apply dielectric grease inside the boot. It makes seating the wire easier and removal becomes much better, reducing the chance if damage to the wire. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 09:26 am: |
|
I finally replaced the stock (non iridium) plugs in my XB9SX at something like 25k miles, just because I felt guilty. They still looked perfect. I did put in iridiums, just because the $20 extra for the plugs felt like a good investment if I know I won't be replacing them often anyway. |
Yo_barry
| Posted on Saturday, June 20, 2015 - 12:25 pm: |
|
OK, I did the deed! New plugs, HD 10R12X installed at 15,393 miles. It has it's challenging moments, but not to bad. Thanks for all the tips and insight. Barry Hollister, CA |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, March 28, 2016 - 09:11 am: |
|
LOL. Dusting off an old thread here... my 16mm deepwell was missing from the tool box, so I had it on the list to pick up when I go get new plugs for the Uly today. And then I see Zac's comment about the factory tool kit, which I bought, and have tucked right under seat unmolested since I got it. Uh, yeah, there might be something that can remove a spark plug in there. LOL. Now if I can just find that stupid tub of anti seize I bought but that vanished after the Mini Cooper clutch job... |
Snowscum
| Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2024 - 12:57 pm: |
|
Bringing back this old thread. I am replacing the original plugs on my 06 Uly. The replacement from Napa was 905 RA4HC. Gap on old plug is .043". New plug .025". Should I gap them to the original or leave them alone? Any help is appreciated. This board is a ghost town and its a bit sad. |