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Timinnc
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 09:37 am: |
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ALMOST got an FJR last week, but the deal fell through... So as I was looking at new potential bikes I found an 06 Uly with 48k miles on it. Kind of high, BUT if well maintained, meh.... And after reading a LOT about it, those that have the love them. I am seriously considering purchasing; it us under $4k and it looks good online. I have read all about the quirks and shortcomings and they are not bad for sure. But now that we are coming up to the 2016 barrier for HD parts availability, how are y'all going deal with the gorilla in the room with regard to parts availability??? And I guess I am talking about Buell specific parts. I have come to learn that there are a lot of things on the bike that can be purchased in an auto store... But there are some things that are OEM specific.... |
Ktmguy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 09:45 am: |
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Hey, where in NC.. Im In Greensboro! No shortage of parts for the Buell, plenty of aftermarket support after the factory supply dries up. |
Buelltours
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 01:08 pm: |
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Hi Tim, I looked at the bike you are talking about. Looks good. Also has some upgrades. Didn't hear it but it is definitely worth checking out IMO |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 01:23 pm: |
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We don't know for sure what will happen in the long run regarding parts availability, but honestly I am not concerned. There are rumors about next year being the last year for parts, but nothing that I've seen that is concrete. At present time, every part that came on your bike from the factory is still available, and should stay that way for the foreseeable future. I've been ordering parts, and stuff I ordered last month got here just as fast as it did back in 2008 before the factory closed. Most items will be shipped to your dealer within a week, with a few items like older bodywork being on extended backorder (which was true even when new bikes were rolling off the assembly line). There is a decent amount of aftermarket support for the XBs, not as good as you would find with a typical Yamaha, but not as bad as something exotic like an MV Augusta. Most of the fuel injection system can be cross-referenced to automotive parts, and many of the engine components are shared with the Sportster. Given that the bike is 10 years old and has decent mileage, it is likely that any issues it had were long resolved, and any issues you do have is just things naturally wearing out. You are unlikely to have any issue that is not well documented on here already. Either way, you do have us, and we can help with anything, including tracking down hard to find replacement parts. (Message edited by Froggy on June 02, 2015) |
Timberwolf
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 02:03 pm: |
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Welcome - I'm down in the Asheboro NC area |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 02:52 pm: |
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All you NC guys, mark your calendars for next month. July 24-26 in Little Switzerland is our 5th annual "Buells in the Alps" meet. Meet central is the Skyline Village Inn on 226A. Some of the best roads in the state in that area. Details here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/37/ 753978.html?1433270871 |
Ktmguy
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 04:29 pm: |
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I plan on being there Hugh.. Have wanted to ride those roads for a while now, not sure why I haven't. I have no excuse. (provided of course I get my pinging pecking rattling bike sorted out by then..L) |
Timinnc
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 05:47 pm: |
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With any good fortune, I will know tomorrow if I can join y'all. |
Buelltours
| Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 09:02 pm: |
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Count me in, Hugh! Bringing Chris again... |
Timinnc
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 03:26 pm: |
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Well no more introductions..... I am an official Uly owner. And some nice upgrades. It has the comfort kit and oil cooler, a throttle lock..... but no tool kit or manual. Since the previous owner put the kit and cooler on I am wondering if he put on a 2010 rear wheel??? Any easy way to tell but just looking at it? But holy shnikee! What an amazing ride. Looking forward to getting to know the bike. It is going to make me a much better rider. I didn't mention it in the OP but I am graduating from from a Virago 750, which as my first bike... |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 03:54 pm: |
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Yep you can easily check which wheel you have. The rear axle, is it silver or black? Silver means you have the stock wheel, black means you likely have the 2010 wheel. Next thing to check would be the dust seals on the wheel. If you see a "6006" on them, that is the size for the older wheel. The 2010 wheel has an extra dust seal so you can't see the one on the bearings, but that extra seal says F1616 somewhere on it. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 03:59 pm: |
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Timinnc, What do you mean by oil cooler? Was there some sort of aftermarket larger cooler put on in place of the stock oil cooler? Just curious. I see you sent me a PM, and I'll reply separately. Looks like we're <30 minutes apart. Tool kit is not much to miss, except you will absolutely need the axle tool if you didn't get that. For 2010 rear wheel, look at the axle. My stock '06 axle was silver, but the different axle needed for my 2010 rear wheel is anodized black. Easy way to tell. Plus, if you know what normal sealed bearings look like, stock '06 you will see them on both sides. 2010 has additional dirt/dust seals outside of the bearings, so you cannot see the actual bearings from the outside. Much better. Congrats on your '06. A bit used, but if you are a decent home mechanic, you should be able to make it work for a lot of smiles. I'll help if I can being nearby, but I have not had any major troubles (thankfully) outside of an early failed clutch and some wheel and steering bearings. I have a new bike now, so the Uly is an official project/spare bike, or for when I don't want to ride the new large beast. Uly is much smaller (and has a better seat!). |
Timinnc
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 04:23 pm: |
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Thanks guys... will check the wheel tomorrow. Maybe I was a bit premature about the oil cooler. Didn't know that a cooler was OEM.... |
Arry
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 04:46 pm: |
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Congrats on your new Uly, and welcome to the BB&D. I believe the service manual is still available thru Harley shops. I don't know about the owners manual. Not all Harley shops sell Buell parts (or manuals), so you'll have to check to find the closest one that does. I think I paid $60 a few years ago, but it is a pretty good service manual that can save you a lot, compared to paying someone else to work on your Uly. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 04:55 pm: |
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If you get a SM (highly recommended) you don't really need an owners manual. |
Tootal
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 05:05 pm: |
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The owners manual will have you torquing the oil tank drain plug too tight anyway! Enjoy your new toy and be ready for the permagrin! |
Timinnc
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 05:28 pm: |
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Cool.... just downloaded a service manual.... |
Timinnc
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 05:31 pm: |
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Ok... my first newbie question.... In metric bikes, one oil for all components.... But for our bikes one oil for engine and clutch and the other oil for primary drive and transmission??? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 05:40 pm: |
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^ One oil for engine, another oil for clutch, primary drive, and transmission. You can run the same oil in both systems, but many of us swear by the factory-recommended HD "Formula+" for the transmission/clutch/primary. People have had good results with a multitude of different oils in the engine; Amsoil, Mobil-1, HD synth or conventional, etc. |
Tootal
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 05:43 pm: |
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Two oils. One for primary/transmission and one for engine. Do not use transmission oil because the ingredients will attack your stator and short it out. They recommend Harley synthetic in both holes but many use Harley primary oil in the primary and a separate oil in the engine. I'm not going to even say what I use, there's a million oil threads on here. So use what kind of engine oil you like and do some reading and see what you would like in the primary/transmission. There really are no really bad answers, just don't use transmission oil and I wouldn't use non synthetic engine oil in the tranny. |
Timinnc
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 05:49 pm: |
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OK.... just to be sure.... I know the clutch is a wet clutch, but does it share the engine oil or the transmission oil? Sorry for the confusion here. |
Twisteduly
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 06:16 pm: |
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Welcome to the club, I have seniority now. lol, by a month + Here is a link to get you a service manual http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Category/manua ls |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 06:35 pm: |
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I know the clutch is a wet clutch, but does it share the engine oil or the transmission oil? Sorry for the confusion here. Clutch, primary, and transmission are all immersed in the same quart of lubricant. Engine oil is completely separate. |
Timinnc
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 07:04 pm: |
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Thanks for the clarification. I am sure that this is getting into the need for this question be in another thread in a different forum, but it begs the question. Can't we use oils that are not specifically "motorcycle" oils that are required for wet clutch applications or fit the JASO MA standard and that have additives that would otherwise be harmful to the clutch? |
Airdale
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 07:26 pm: |
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Also we have a alternator in the primary case, and some oils have been known to eat at the lacquer insulation on the wiring in the stator....So please Choose wisely your transmission lubricant. |
Timinnc
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 08:12 pm: |
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Oh no question about the tyranny oil. No playing around there! |
Arry
| Posted on Wednesday, June 03, 2015 - 09:42 pm: |
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As Tootal points out, the drain plug torque spec is high, in the owners manual. It is also high in the service manual. 12-15 ft/lb has been suggested on this forum. Several didn't get the memo, and stripped out the threads. |
Arcticktm
| Posted on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 04:18 pm: |
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Tim, your logic is fine since the engine oil is engine only, not clutch/trans. that's why you won't see any JASO spec (especially in a bike from Milwaukee!). You might notice the "backup" oil mentioned if you "cannot find" HD oil is actually a CI class API oil (diesel engine oil, like Rotella or Delvac). Just keep in mind you have a low rev, air cooled motor that is being pushed pretty hard compared to what it was originally intended for. That means high temperatures, but not really high shear (that the trans might see). To get any deeper, search around for more oil related stuff if you dare. And have a lot of time to kill to learn that it isn't all that complicated or picky. |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 05:36 pm: |
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i have an extra manual...PM me |
Timinnc
| Posted on Friday, June 12, 2015 - 05:58 pm: |
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Jim, in fact I am going to try Rotella dino my next oil change just to see what it does. At present, it just had an oil change just before I got it 20-50 synthetic... Brand was not specified. I have a friend that rides a Lightning Long and he has a temp gun. I will do a before and after temp just to see if there is a difference. Interesting too, it has the comfort kit. But for sure, won't put the Rotella in the primary. My friend was saying that Red Line syn is the way to go there. Sorry I didn't get with you last weekend, but want to soon.... Overall, the bike is running great. Came with a Cee Bailey 16" and was horrible above 50 for me... went with the stock shield. It was better but I got a Parabellum and just installed it today. Have yet to give it a test ride. |
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