| Author | Message | ||
     Jolly |
My 98 S1W now has 38K miles on it, a mere break in point for a lot of you high mileage guys! It was time to finally get into this bike and replace the oil pump drive gear since I had no idea what the previous owner had really done for or to this bike when I rescued it from his back yard a few years ago. It runs perfectly though and I never have an issue with it, but...time for some preventive mx on the oil pump drive gear... here comes the rabbit hole..... As long as I am going to pull the rocker boxes to pull the cam over to pull the oil pump drive gear I might as well do.... here is where it lead to: 1. Oil pump drive gear replacement 2. Powdercoat the cam cover since it was already texture painted 3. Zippers collapsible push rod tube assemblies and billet bases 4. powdercoat the exhaust heat shield 5. Powdercoat the primary cover since it was rough 6. Pull starter and replace gasket 7. Black RTV the stator plug SURPRISE 8. Found broken magnet on rotor 9. Replace rotor 10. Replace Stator (might as well???) 11. well I am here, might as well replace/upgrade the main seal | ||
| Jolly |
Broken magnet on rotor  upgraded rotor notice the design changes and number of bolts for the sprocket to rotor  | ||
| Phelan |
Don't forget to give it a better piston ring seal with a new 1250 kit  . | ||
| Jolly |
Powdercoated cam cover and collapsible push rod tube assemblies installed   | ||
| Jolly |
Primary cover powdercoated   | ||
| Jolly |
Main seal was a tough job...well frustrating job....I guess that one is simply a rite of passage!! Tried the seal puller tool I bought, tried needle nose pliers.... Ended up with a very small drill bit and a battery operated drill set on the lowest torque and speed setting and just "bumped" it until I felt the drill bit cut through the seal... Then drilled another hole 180 degrees out from that one and used two small sheet metal screws to pull the seal with pliers...  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Looks promising  About the rotor upgrade ,is it a possibility to drill and tap four more holes in the rotor to have it bolted together with eight bolts!? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
I mean in a rotor with good magnets of course! | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
That sprocket is as hard as jesus' kneecaps...I wouldn't want to drill and tap it | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
looking good brother! | ||
| Jolly |
I'm not sure about drilling and tapping the old rotor for more bolts. I would like to assume (yeah I know....) that the assembly is balanced, and adding more bolts would require "re-balancing" to keep from adding any undue harmonics or "wobble" to the assembly, I am sure I am WAY over thinking that and giving WAY too much credit to the HD guys that are making these, however, the new assembly clearly has some attempt at balancing evidenced by the drilled spots on the rotor. With everything done, this bike should last another...MANY MANY MANY miles without issue. It already has my full list of standard upgrades and changes and really runs well. the lingering issues for me was the oil pump drive gear, then the rabbit hole opened up and it became a real project. next up, my X1 will back fire through the head gasket when its cold, so after spending the last few weeks working on this AND three Moto Guzzis (a 2002 LeMans followed me hone and needed some work, and..my 2000 1100 sport needed new springs in the gear selector box, and my 1100 sport, well, all three needed fluid changes...) I now have the X1 up on the operating table for head and base gaskets..... | ||
| Johnod |
Jolly you can punch 2 holes in the main seal with an awl, no debris that way. Easy to do too. | ||
| Jolly |
Probably safer than what I did.... I used cutting oil on the drill bit to "capture" the particles, then chased it with a magnet... but a punch is probably a good idea.... see, its always easier the SECOND time you do the job.. that's why I "preach" to all the new guys and seasoned veterans that do a job for the first time...BEST REFERENCE IS THE MANUAL AND THE EXPERTS HERE!!!!!, the experts here bridge the gap and answer the question of.... "how do I do what the manual is telling me to do..?" there are jobs that I can do blind-folded, and offer my help, and jobs that others can do blind-folded that I have not yet tackled and I will need their help when its time... this forum and group of people is the perfect example of the old movie theme "Pay it Forward", I've never met a less selfish, more giving group of people, sharing their passion and expertise to keep every bike and rider on the road!! its amazing to think how complicated my life was at one point in time, post 9/11 life, new mission, new job, new life, transplanted from Ks to the DC region, and couldn't for the life of me find the time or the space to work on a bike and paid for ALL maintenance... it's so good to be back in a place in life that I can bend wrenches on my own bikes and stop paying others to screw my stuff up!! any way.... bike is running very well with the latest MX completed! first time on a main seal, so I'll watch for a bit and see if it starts puking oil as an indication the seal failed and I did it wrong..but all indications at this point are good! | ||
| V74 |
Hi did you weigh the front primary drive sprockets to see what the difference was ? | ||
| Steveford |
What happened to Beardo, anyway? Did he sell that S2? | ||
| Steveford |
Never mind. I did a search and he parted it out. | ||
| Jolly |
This s1 came from someone not on the forum, it was my first S1 (second Buell), that I finally was able to track down close enough to to go pick up instead of ship.... Sitting in someone's back yard...wouldn't even start when I got it.... Original owner. The oil pump drive gear was really the last MX item hanging out there to be done as it pushed 40K miles. Everything else was the rabbit hole of.... "Well, I'm already here..." though it was in better shape than the yellow 96 I bought, but the yellow 96 at least started and ran well! |
