| Author | Message | ||
     Henrik |
There was some discussion of clutch devices making the clutch pull easier. Did anyone see this one on eBay. Henrik | ||
| Shotgun |
Has anybody here tried this new gadget? On Ebay at: Sportster & Buell 1994-2004 Easy Pull Clutch Item number: 2466635013 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Shotgun, I was curious about that thing myself. Here's a full link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2466635013 Someone asked about it a while back but I don't think there were any responses. Brad | ||
| Ocbueller |
I know of a certain motorcycle magazine that would benefit from one of those devices. | ||
| Awprior |
I'll agree with that... bunch of whiners... Some of the stuff in Motorcyclist magazine really cracks me up. From the latest issue, discussing mass centralization of the new CBR1000RR: "Concentrated mass gives the tires effectively longer lever arms to quickly correct deviations without generating excess angular momentum that can result in a reactive oscillation." I have my own thoughts about what that means, anyone else want to take a shot at it? edited by awprior on March 13, 2004 | ||
| Sarodude |
Being the evil genius that I am, I hadn't realized that there was a unique clutch section to the board. Anyway, I posted some stuff in the Primary section regarding my Blast. Here's what happened... I got my clutch over to the dealership. They took it apart. It looked like they were having a really tough time pulling the steels or fibers out from there. Seemed odd to me but oh well... Let's all pretend that this -> O is a clutch disc (fiber) who's surface is soaked with oil. Well, my discs' oil soaked surfaces looked more like -> U. There was an entire section of disc on MANY discs that was BONE EFFING DRY. They all looked similar - as in similar amounts of dry area. Being as I wasn't the one disassembling the clutch, I didn't notice if the dry spots on the discs would all be in the same rotational (?) orientation as each other. At this point, I am inclined to believe that they were. We all scratched our heads. The mechanic asked what I wanted done. Since there was bluing on the steels and the fibers looked the way they did, I opted for a whole new set of steels & fibers. They were cool and charged for .5 hr labor. Very fair. Parts turned out more than I was expecting, though. So I went home & installed the clutch. we won't talk about how the chain guide got left of out the primary, ok? The bike ran MARVELOUSLY. The clutch was smooth and perfect. For about a day. The clutch has slowly been going back to it's "Square Wheel" style of engagement. Help! -Saro | ||
| Mikej |
How full is your primary case and what kind of lube are you using in it? (we won't ask if the chain guide was put back in, okay.) Let me add, the primary/tranny fluid level should be checked with the bike upright and level, not leaning on the sidestand. You probably know this, but thought I'd throw it in for anyone who doesn't. edited by mikej on March 17, 2004 | ||
| Sarodude |
When I first dove into the primary it was WAAAAAAAY overfull. It was leaking fluid from the clutch cable. I actually suspected that whatever crank seal may have been going bad so I changed it while I was in there. The lube in there was of unknown origin - but it was fairly BLACK - which kinda made me feel better about changing that crank seal. not that anyone asked, but I'da been really nervous not putting that chain guide back in The primary was filled (Mobil 1 15-50 like in our other VERY happy Blast) and level checked per the manual - upright, clutch spring, etc... -Saro | ||
| Reepicheep |
Geesh. How can this happen? Did you soak the plates and fibers before assembling and installing? Don't know about Harleys, but I had to do that on my old Yamaha. I also replaced the springs with the clutch, maybe its a weak spring or something? Causing the spring on the opposing side from being "balanced" and not letting lube get in there. Thats a real stumper. | ||
| Sarodude |
I believe the dealer tech soaked the plates before putting the clutch back together for me. In hindsight, I wish I'd just have bought the tool. I'm buying it now... -Saro edited by sarodude on March 17, 2004 | ||
| Bomber |
Saro . . . going way out on a limb here, but it sounds like the clutch is not disengaging completely . . .. . if something were warped, and all the dry parts were in the same rotational orientation, those portions of the disks not separating might not get lube on em? far fetched, I know . . . .. | ||
| Sarodude |
When you say "not disengaging completely" would that not cause some clutch drag and its resultant symptoms? If I pull the lever all the way in, I now get zero drag. Before the weekend's shenanigans it would OCCASIONALLY drag just a teeny tiny skosh. I was thinking the same thing you are - except I could not reconcile how I could still get zero clutch drag (thereby zero clutch engagement?). Dunno what's going on, but like I said, I'm getting a clutch compressor tool and hitting it all up myself as soon as the thing comes in the mail. I suspect strange things with the basket or hub or... -Saro | ||
| Bomber |
Saro . .. . the answer is a qualified "could be" . . . clutch drag can range form un-noticable to horrific . . .. . like I said, I was just sharing an experience I had with a different type of scoot years ago and miles away, hoping that it might help . . .. . . btw, I don't believe that there is any such thing as zero clutch engagement . . .. I think the plates drag, at least a little, all the time if it is properly adjusted | ||
| Sarodude |
Guess I shoulda said "zero PERCEPTIBLE drag". Nonetheless, that may validate a current suspicion... I'm thinking that there's some sort of irregularity in the hub or basket causing the fingers / splines / whateveryawannacallem of the steels or fibers to bind up on one end. Still too many questions - not the least of which is why the thing was good for about a day. -Saro | ||
| Bomber |
saro . . . . .. good a theory as any (and exactly what I cfound on the scoot in question in the prehistoric days . . .. . ) let us know what ya find | ||
| Philip |
my shot at this would be to check the hub and shell for burrs or wear that could be keeping the plates from sitting evenly. in other words, check that they are not cocked. it will probably be a very slight cocking so look close. hope you figure it out. another thought, withe the clutch plates out and the rear wheel off of the ground, put it in gear and spin the wheel and see if the center is running true and then spin the motor and see if the outer shell is running true. just another guess to scratch off of the list! | ||
| Jasons1 |
I'm sorry if this has been asked and answered already, but I've spent the last hour searching for the answer to this question and have had no luck...so here I go. I need to replace the clutch on my '96 S1. A friend of mine has an extra stock clutch basket (with all plates) for his XB9R. Are the XB9R clutches the same as the tube frame Buells and sportsters? Will his extra clutch basket work in my S1? As always, thanks for the help guys! - Jason | ||
| Jasons1 |
I found out that the XB clutches will NOT fit into the tube frame bikes. The number of plates is different, as well as some other technical bits. | ||
| Sarodude |
Jason- What exactly won't fit where? I'm highly curious. -Saro | ||
| Jasons1 |
I e-mailed a BadWeb user, noface, and he was able to explain it to me. I have already deleted his e-mail, so I'm sorry, but I can't exactly describe it. You might want to try and e-mail him, and he'll be able to expalin it to you fully. Sorry I can't be of more help. I'm still learning the technical end of things, especially in regards to clutches. - Jason | ||
| S1joel |
Mechanical question from a non-mechanic Does the adjuster nut that is in the middle of the clutch cable (on the front of the frame) actually adjust the clutch or is does it adjust only the play in the lever? I prefer to have the clutch start to engage fairly near the grip, as opposed to far away from the grip where the dealer sets it. I messed with the adjuster to the point that when the lever is pulled all the way in the clutch is not engaged (real wheel doesn't spin while raised on a stand). It begins to spin after I release the lever a few degrees. This is where I would like it to be. I haven't ridden it like this yet. Will I damage the clutch by doing this, should I put it back to where it was? Sorry if I have confused you. Joel | ||
| Steveford |
That's for the lever freeplay; you want to snap the clutch lever 3x and then MANfully pull the cable away from the clutch perch up on the handlebar. The gap between the metal cable ferrule and the clutch perch should be roughly the width of a nickle. | ||
| Sarodude |
Clutch Update I finally got back into my Blast's clutch after I got myself the Barnett version of the clutch compressor. Looks like my thrashed upon little bike had a significant accident in its past life. I know for a fact that it's seen one lowside on its left that bent the footpeg bracket. Well, based on evidence on the clutch inspection cover, I believe that the lowside / hit was bad enough that it actually pushed the footpeg into and THROUGH the primary cover - requiring a new primary cover. I believe this because there's a spot around the clutch basket where something has CLEARLY hit this thing. Anyway, the clutch basket is bad. The slots where the thing was hit are irregular. Given that it's likely gonna take a week to get another basket (the part number appears Blast specific - 36800-00Y) and that I want my bike running for this weekend's Ca Blast-a-Thon, I'm gonna TRY to make it work. Gonna toss the bearing for good measure. The pressure plate has a small anomaly on a non-critical surface towards the outside edge - near the clutch basket. The critical surfaces on that part are all true. The fibers may not have fared as well. Haven't checked 'em thoroughly but at least one of 'em had some SIGNIFICANT warping on it. The phenomenon of dry sections of clutch fiber was beginning to show on these plates. The dry sections were roughly .001" thinner than the rest of the fiber. I feel like a jackass for not noticing this anomaly last time. I feel kinda pissed off that the dealer tech who disassembled my clutch missed it - but that just reinforces my belief regarding who should be working on your bike. It's not too obvious unless you're actually trying to INSPECT it instead of just taking a look at it. I can't help but feel like there's got to be one other thing wrong. We've got circular parts turning with the basket contacting circular parts turning with the hub. If one part is warped or dragging, it should cause a UNIFORM drag WRT the forces felt outside the system. What I experienced was NON UNIFORM drag... Anyway, I suppose we'll see. -Saro | ||
| Spooky |
Saro, I've got a couple of spare clutch baskets out of some blast here at the house just collecting dust. Email me, spooky@b-last.com Eric. | ||
| Drfuyutsuki |
Heya, Newbie so my problem may just be me. I have a 97 S1 (recently bought.) Having problems with clutch obvisously. I can get it into and out of gear, but have to pull the clutch lever up and back over past the front edge of the grip to even get the clutch to disengage. I have tried adjusting the cable put loosening and tightening it makes no difference. Replace the gear oil, no luck. Only thing left I guess is to actually adjust the clutch internally. | ||
| Drfuyutsuki |
And it is extremely touchy releasing it to make it go (but that may be me) As it sits I have had the bike since Friday and haven't been able to ride it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Pull the derby cover and walk through the clutch adjustment procedure as listed in the manual. It's a self adjusting ball and ramp mech, so just messing with the cable might not help. When you pull the derby cover, loosen screws gradually around the circle. If you pull them out completely one at a time, the last two will bind as the cover cocks sideways and you will strip the heads (been there, done that). | ||
| Drfuyutsuki |
Reepi; Thanks for the tip, took another look at the guide and realized I was turning the bolt the wrong way when it rubbed.. redid the process and it worked like a charm. Thanks again | ||
| S1hooligan |
anyone here know if having a groove in your clutch basket is bad? it is about the width of one clutch plate. It runs in the opposite direction as the regular grooves in the basket. I pulled the clutch apart to figure out why it stopped working and found that the spring plate had started to come apart, and the rivets that came off where in the basket, and I think they might have been what made the groove. But I don't know anything about this. Any help would be great. S1hooligan | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Posting a picture if you can may help show what you mean. Some notching or grooving of the basket is expected from the plates but it shouldn't be excessive. |
