Author |
Message |
F451
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 12:31 am: |
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Hey guys, Newb here, bought a '06 XB12X recently and while doing the intake seal replacement I discovered that the intake flange on the rear cylinder is cracked around the lower mounting bolt hole, so it needs to be replaced. I'm having a hard time finding the Buell OEM part number, or a Harley OEM part number. I 'think' the same flange is used on '04-'07 Buells and '88-'06 Harley Sportsters (XL883 & XL1200). Does anyone know the Buell part number for the flange for the rear cylinder? How about the Harley part number? I'm hoping to find the Harley part in stock locally, but before I go into the dealers I would love to have a part number. Thanks, Ed Ps: great forum, I've been learning a ton. |
F451
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 12:34 am: |
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The flange I need is part #7 in this diagram.
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Teeps
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 11:15 am: |
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Here you go! PN: 27010-86A rear intake mount flange. Though I would go with one of the after market solutions that appear to have a better sealing method. |
F451
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 12:31 pm: |
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Fantastic, thank you! Re the aftermarket part, I would do that but don't want to wait for shipping. I'll see what my local HD dealers have in stock. If I have to order the stock Buell/HD part, I'll consider aftermarket - don't want to have to do this PITA job again anytime soon. Thanks again. -Ed |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 12:54 pm: |
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This is probably the aftermarket part he's speaking of- Badweb sponsor 5-Odro imports flanges from Twin Motorcycles (Buell specialist from the Netherlands) that are said to be improved over the factory part: http://www.5-0dro.com/index.php/buell/xb12xt-x-uly sses/xb12x/2006-2009/twin-motorcycles-buell-sports ter-intake-flanges-detail If you follow Twin Motorcycles on Facebook, you know they replace a LOT of Buell intake seals, so if they say these things are better, I believe them. |
F451
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 01:12 pm: |
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Right on, thanks! -Ed |
Tootal
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 01:51 pm: |
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I use these with the stock flanges. http://store.jamesgaskets.com/product_info.php?pro ducts_id=519 They have a metal ring molded inside them to keep them from warping. You do have to fit them if your intake is too long. I had to file some off the ends so they would fit but haven't had a leak since and that was seven years ago! |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 09:37 pm: |
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I have the aftermarket flanges from 5-0 Dro...this is the way it should have been from the factory...awesome parts!!! |
Djohnk
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 11:18 pm: |
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I used these, and they worked great also: https://www.denniskirk.com/H26258.sku I had a new bike after swapping them out. |
F451
| Posted on Friday, May 15, 2015 - 12:35 am: |
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Thanks for the input folks! My local HD dealer had both the flange and the bolts in stock, I'm psyched! I hope to get this thing buttoned up this weekend. If I need to do this again, I'll go with the aftermarket, but for now I'm happy trying the OEM parts so I can get back on the road quickly. -Ed |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Saturday, May 16, 2015 - 01:11 am: |
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Use short bolts on the back side as they are easier to tighten than the Allen bolts and use some thing like Sil-Glyde on the seals so they slide and seal and last longer. |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Saturday, May 16, 2015 - 06:32 am: |
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i hope this works for you. I tried stock seals and flanges twice...was uber careful both tomes installing and both times they leaked like a sieve. Thats why i switched to the Oberon gaskets |
Tootal
| Posted on Saturday, May 16, 2015 - 08:53 am: |
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I switched over to 12 point screws. This allows you to use a small 1/4" box end wrench and a small radius of turning. This is what Harley used back in the 80 and 90's. They work great on the Buell and you don't have to rotate the engine. http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED- Alloy-Steel-Coarse-Hex-Head-WP162807/_/N-8my?s_pp= false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/G rainger/21C340_AS01? |
F451
| Posted on Saturday, May 16, 2015 - 12:16 pm: |
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More thanks for the great tips guys. I was planning on lubing the seals on install. Had not considered using different bolts, but I think I will stop by one of my local fastener houses on Monday and pick up those 12 pts, those freaking hex socket head bolts were a ball buster to remove and I was not looking forward to trying to get them installed. |
Smorris
| Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2015 - 01:57 pm: |
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finally ready to install my "Tootal" throttle body shaft. curious on your post above about 12 pt. screws. the link is taking me to hex head. do u mean a flanged 12 point? and did you replace all four? thanks |
Tootal
| Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2015 - 03:54 pm: |
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The grainger link is not going to the same place. Looks like they don't sell them anymore. Fastenal does but there link is so long it won't work properly. They are Flanged 12 points, also known as Ferry Cap Screws. |
Smorris
| Posted on Wednesday, October 07, 2015 - 07:00 pm: |
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thank u happy healing. another question, did u at some point list a loctite product that can be used on the tiny throttle body shaft screws, as opposed to the split peening process? |
Tootal
| Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2015 - 02:29 pm: |
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I recommended red Loctite but that was in addition to peening. I highly recommend peening, or center punching or even the use of a chisel. Some guys were drilling a shallow tiny hole in the end of the screws and using the chisel to spread it. I've worked on many carburetors over the years and the butterfly screws are always peened in some sort of way. |