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Sportyeric
| Posted on Saturday, May 09, 2015 - 08:34 pm: |
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Just picked up a new Y exhaust mount for the S2T. Do the rubber grommets and steel spacers within the rubber grommets slide within the hanger or are they bonded? Because they don't line up as they are (centered.) On my old S2, the spacers and grommets are biased to one side. So the question is: Is the bias molded into the part or do I have to put the new one in a vice or something to adjust the spacers and grommets to the right location? I understand that there was a change in the design about 2000. Is that the change? |
Jefc73
| Posted on Saturday, May 09, 2015 - 08:43 pm: |
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They move but need to tap them with something. Should be able to get them to line up how you need them. |
Screamer
| Posted on Sunday, May 10, 2015 - 10:37 pm: |
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The metal cores should be left left fully embedded in the isolators. If the resources aren't available to fabricate spacers, washers can be used to space your bracket so it sits in a neutral position. If the bracket is forced in to a pre- loaded position it may stress the system and cause other mounting ponint failures. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, May 10, 2015 - 10:42 pm: |
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The y bracket holds it where it should be. I would remount the exhaust and pipe so that they line up with the mount correctly. |
Screamer
| Posted on Sunday, May 10, 2015 - 11:28 pm: |
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There were periods where the headers (especially the earlier model years) varied dimensionally. Early race headers had the mounting tabs welded to the header and were often difficult to align - even with the y mount that came later. The later race header with the floating clamped-on bracket seldom had alignment issues, but manipulating/forcing the early ones sometimes creates other issues. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 11:42 am: |
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The mounting points are stronger than the welds between sections of the pipe itself. I pushed mine into position and locked it there and the header split into three pieces. Open the mounting holes up into ovals if you have to in order to avoid the stress of misalignment. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 09:16 pm: |
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^ yup. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 10:10 pm: |
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Thanks all. As per Jeff, above, I've shifted the rubber isolators, with the cores staying put in relation to the rubber. With the pipe on, one core is almost flush with the bracket. The other (with bonded rubber isolator) is pushed inwards so only half of the rubber is inside the bracket. It seems happy like that. And that is how the other Buell's isolator has sat for 100k miles. New problem, though, which I may as well tag onto this thread. The pipe that came with the bike, which was not ever properly installed, does not allow the rear pipe to insert into the port enough to be able to catch any stud threads. Assuming the issue was the pipe, I tried the pipe from the other bike. It just barely gives enough thread to get a nut on and I can't tighten those nuts more than halfway on. Why would two pipes not line up on stock heads? I'm torn between putting in a battery and riding for a bit to see if it sorts itself out. Or take it apart and try again with a new set of gaskets (which is a PITA.) |
Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 10:35 pm: |
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Suggestion: Leave the hardware loose and start the bike. Let in run for a few minutes, then tighten things up. |
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