| Author |
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Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 09:41 am: | 
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Is that a stock take-off CBR shock or aftermarket? While I know of ways to move the shock around to achieve a lower height, I cant imagine a CBR lowering kit would fit in the Blast. Shocks too close to the tire.
As far as a belt tensioner? Its a ribbed belt, a tensioner isnt recommended.
*But EZ is the king of Blast info, so...... |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 03:50 pm: |
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Its a stock CBR shock - quote - 96 cbr 600 and has three ways to adjust - since we are talking just over a 1/2 " - I'm sure it can be modified for that, the kits being the easy way - lol - he dropped his forks 1/8" into the tree - I recommended more, but we'll see.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 - 09:25 pm: |
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Dropping the forks, imho is a bad way to go. That can make for some very twitchy handling. 1/8" wont make any difference, why bother? The Blast bottoms out a little too easy already.
More important than shock length is travel, or how far will the shock compress before it hits bottom. Static ride height can be the same no matter how much longer (or shorter) the shock is. Spring rate can make a big difference too.
I'm not saying it cant or shouldnt be done (I might even be a bit out of the loop too). I'm just playing devils advocate since I've done a lot of mix and match with shocks and springs and know the problems you can run into.
I am interested how it actually turns out. Like a lot of people, I'd like a reasonable adjustable alternative to the Blast stocker, but for something to just "bolt right on" and work well, I have my doubts.
I did think about the fact that you could make an inside belt tensioner (as opposed to the traditional outside). It'd be a bit more work, but doable. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 26, 2011 - 04:31 pm: |
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Belt tensioner - easy deal - get a skateboard wheel, insert the bearings use some washers and some hollow tubing on each side, get some threaded rod and cut to length - the length determined by the size plus room for two springs to loop on and the bolts to keep them in place - place on top of belt and attach springs to upper inside inner fender mount hole - springs should be loose enough so that wheel has only has its weight on the belt and no other tension - done. Thought about this a long time ago - know that will work.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, October 27, 2011 - 08:28 pm: |
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I too know what will work, but the blast has a ribbed outer edge. Not generally regarded as ideal for using a belt tensioner. I'm sure your XBlast has a smooth sided belt.
Skateboard wheels are good for chains and belts. I installed a tensioner on my '77 with a chain drive. Next best thing to running a belt!
I certainly would like to hear if a tensioner on a ribbed Blast belt would be a)noisy b) how long the belt would last. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, October 28, 2011 - 01:09 pm: |
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I think I'll try my tensioner on my system, and I'll post some pics - here is a link to where this is happening - http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p= 64228#post64228
EZ |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2011 - 09:00 pm: |
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EZ the links not working.
This CBR shock is an awesome deal for $50 alittle cutting and welding on the mounts no tensioner needed only raises the rear about 5/8".
The spring i have on the 4th setting out of 7 to get the sag even front and rear i weigh 200 full riding gear.
I put the Works kit in the front with Gold valves 7.5 oil.
Whole different animal now this thing is wicked fun!
The more i ride it the more i like it!
I even went out an bought heated glove and boot liners to keep riding. lol |
Heyzeus
| | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 09:36 am: |
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So I ordered the super brace in black. I will have my new black wheels Wednesday. I will install my new tires. I changed the oil in my forks to 7w and added a 1 inch spacer. I kept the 6 inch steel tube in the forks and added a 3/4 inch electricians grey PVC stub cut to 7 inchs. It fit just right in the spring collar. The spring collar will act like a sleeve and add strength to the PVC. The forks feel better but I won't know until I get it all back together with the new wheels. Also, the CA canister fell off what a bummer  . |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 01:14 pm: |
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I have a feeling that weight fork oil is too thin unless you've also added the "Gold" valves. You might find your front end bouncier than ever. It might also dive more, but bounce right back up, quickly.
Sorry, dont mean to be a Danny Downer, I just dont want you to be surprised (in a bad way).
The rest sounds great  |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 06:20 pm: |
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I dunno - I've run 7.5 forever, and it was not bouncy to me - guess if you are heavier, less bounce and more preciseness.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 06:35 pm: |
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Before you ran the gold valves?
Notice I used the word "might". Logic dictates that lighter weight oil with more preload = more bounce.
It might be noticed as nothing more than choppy wear on the front tire or it might be noticed when pulling your bike out of the ditch.
I've never ran lighter weight oil than stock and I cant imagine it would make things better from my experience. But I havent, and I trust your opinion so, might! |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 10:39 am: |
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It will also depend on whose 7wt oil is used. Every manufacture has a different way of measuring the oil weight and thus a different viscosity. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 10:05 pm: |
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So much for SAE standards!
But I'd venture a guess its still thin! |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 10:16 am: |
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The only reason why I know is because of my mountain biking background. I can not find the chart, but a private race team took about 15-20 manufactures, 5wt, 7wt, 10wt suspension oil and ranked them according to their oil viscosity. This was done at 32, 70(?), and 100 degrees. They also recorded the in use temperature for some of the simulated races to determine the operating viscosity but that info was not made publicly available.
The final chart had manufactures and oil wts all over the place especially at the ends of the temp spectrum. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 11:01 pm: |
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That certainly interesting. If you compare 75w-90 gear oil in synthetic and dino, they seem completely different weights, not even close. I'm sure there must be some engineering consistency or some constant between them all or a weight rating would be completely meaningless!?! |
Weighttopowerr
| | Posted on Monday, October 15, 2012 - 12:09 am: |
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Hey guys,
So I hit a deer doing about 45 the other day on my blast. My bike ended up alright, it runs just fine, and aside from a few turn signals, brake levers etc. the only real problem is the forks are bent. That and my face has about 35 stitches in it, while my jacket did its job, my helmet got ripped off my head, but I am healing quickly and have some good pain killers so its all good. But as for the forks, now would be a good time to experiment, or entertain the idea of putting some other forks on it. I'd like something adjustable that would allow for a sporty set-up. I am sure stock forks aren't cheap. What direction should I look in for new/non-stock forks, any suggestions? What about a new triple tree/fork combo? Can the xb (not Ulysses) forks fit? What about an older buell? If I were to start looking what qualities would I want to look for aside from the obvious outside diameter and length? I appreciate your input! |
Swampy
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 10:37 pm: |
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I would guess that the XB trees are not going to be a direct bolt on, however since you have things apart....
Check your steering head alignment on the frame, bending forks will usually result in a bent frame.
If your frame is bent, maybe cut off the head and weld the head off a donor bike with the forks of your choosing!
I have a friend that is trying to weld some Asian bike steering head on the front of a 1125 that had the steering head broken off in an accident. |
Weighttopowerr
| | Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 02:54 pm: |
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Great info Swampy. Any recommendations as to what I should look for in a steering head/triple tree/fork set up? What specs am I looking for that would mesh well with the blast? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, October 20, 2012 - 10:50 am: |
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Some things are remarkably close to the blast set up. The newest 250 Ninja (spit) uses a front end very close to the blasts and might even bolt on. Often it can be just welding in the right steering stem. I've seen XB and tuber Buell front ends as well as some Japs on Blasts, but as previously written, I doubt they "bolt right on". Specs will be hard to find. They are out there, but getting someone to give them out can be the difficult part. There is more than one way to skin this cat as 37mm tubes (found onthe 250 ninja) should fit the blast triple tree (but spacing may be off). FWIW: a Blast front end can be made to handle very well. |
Weighttopowerr
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 01:33 pm: |
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Thank Gearhead, I agree that the blast front end has potential. I had mine shimmed with heavy oil and I loved it, until I went hunting with my bike that is.
I've got all winter to figure it out. I'd love to put an xb or tuber front end of it. Ill let you guys know what I decide and how it works out. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, October 23, 2012 - 04:22 pm: |
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Research on Badweb will show you its been done and may offer up some tips. Sorry i dont have time for the research right now. |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 03:35 pm: |
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Gearheaderiko,
I found a guy that did a lot of the leg work on shock oil wts.
http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm
EZ.
Whos 7.5wt are you running? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2012 - 06:44 pm: |
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Great find, but a hellova lot to digest (which is good)! |
White1995svt
| | Posted on Thursday, July 03, 2014 - 09:18 pm: |
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I'm trying to raise my blast up 2-3 inches in the rear so I i don't drag when I hit humps but I would like to find the cheapest and easiest way to do this any suggestions
thanks Dustin |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, July 04, 2014 - 03:35 am: |
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Buy a Japanese Honda 11" shock with remote canister - and mount, then customize a XB belt tension-er.
EZ |
Shakinittwice
| | Posted on Friday, May 08, 2015 - 02:38 pm: |
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Any pictures of the cutting and welding required for the f3 cbr600 shock? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, May 08, 2015 - 08:10 pm: |
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The pictures are here. Try the search feature. I don't have a good enough internet connection to find them. Sorry. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 08, 2015 - 05:31 am: |
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See the very top of topic - just posted it there.
EZ |
Muddhorn
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2016 - 11:11 am: |
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I have 06 blast. I want to lower the rear of bike. Was it raise the mono shock to lower the back ? Also want to run air cleaner straight off carb, any ideas? Home made or other wise |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2016 - 11:25 am: |
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Yes, raise the top mount. There isn't much clearance, you might have to fit a stop to avoid fender or wheel contact. If you're looking for a lower seat height, then cutting some foam out of the seat might be a better option (or get a "low" seat if your blast didn't come with it. They are cheap!!) |
