Author |
Message |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2015 - 07:27 pm: |
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Hi, I am basically a noob to mechanical things (I grew up on computers), but I wanted to try replacing my clubman bars with these http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/18029.html Are there any specialized tools I'll need? Should I buy a chock as well to keep the rear stabilized? Should I buy 2 chocks for the front AND rear? |
Sprintst
| Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2015 - 09:35 pm: |
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Chocks? Are you talking about stands? For other maintenance, stands are a huge help, but for changing a handlebar, not needed. It looks like you will be replacing both the front brake and clutch lines, which are hydraulic. This will you will need to put in new fluid and bleed both. I would recommend a bleeder, it will make life much easier. You can get a simple hand pump one at most auto parts stores. If you are doing new grips, cut the old off. If reusing, compressed air is the simplest way to get them off, but you can also insert a slim screwdriver and spray some soapy water up in there. Lot's of methods for putting them on. I did my last set with air, and they were new and tight, so didn't need anything else. Soapy water works well for tight grips, clear spray lacquer is an option for looser fitting grips, since it will function as a glue. Lastly, they also make grip glue! Should be a very easy job you can do on the kick stand. I'm guessing the bleeding will be the most challenging, but a power bleeder will make that much easier. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2015 - 10:12 pm: |
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Old school trick for grips - Black vinyl electrician tape on the bars and a splash of gasoline in the grip's inside. Slide the grip on the bar and let sit overnight. Truth be told, grip glue works really well. Try your local Harley or UJM bike shop. Z |
Figorvonbuellingham
| Posted on Thursday, April 30, 2015 - 11:23 pm: |
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Spray the inside with hogwash or contact cleaner then slide them right on. |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Friday, May 01, 2015 - 04:04 pm: |
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Thanks! Yea I was going to try and re-use as many components as I could.. Another wrinkle is I have Acerbis 2140450001 Dual Road Black Handguard installed inside the bars and I have no idea how I am going to get them out again... If I were to replace the grips do you guys have any favorites I could look at? |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 02:20 pm: |
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What exactly is a power bleeder (got a link?) and do you recommend glue? What kind? Where can I get it? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 02:45 pm: |
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^ Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac-vacuum-pump-3 9522.html |
Froggy
| Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 08:02 pm: |
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I can vouch for the mityvac, works great! I also am a total failure with mechanical work, but the vac makes bleeding brake and clutch easy peasy. |
Sprintst
| Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 11:40 pm: |
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Yes, that's the kind of bleeder I'm talking about |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Monday, May 04, 2015 - 05:14 pm: |
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Thanks again! There's a harbor freight nearby so I will try and go down to them tomorrow! |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 05:09 pm: |
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I just got a call back from a Buell Tech in my area... $75/hr for labor and he said 3-4 hrs? He also said that replacing the bars is a headache. Should I attempt to do it myself and learn more about my bike or just let him do it? |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 05:19 pm: |
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It depends on how confident you feel about doing it. It is not hard, but it does take a while, as there are a lot of little steps and things to swap like the throttle cables, brake/clutch line. Each of those individually is not hard, it just will beat you up doing it over the course of the day. Also some things like the throttle cables need to be routed perfect, otherwise they will bind up when riding. 3-4hrs sounds right, whether it is worth $300 to save the aggravation if things go wrong is up to you. |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 05:55 pm: |
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Bind up? Um would that be dangerous/life threatening? You make a good point... my only hesitation is that his shop is 40 miles and an hour away. I'd be annoying to have to ride up their with the gf in tow (carrying the handlebar kit along) and then waiting around in a dingy city for 3-4hrs while he works. |
Mhpalin
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 06:50 pm: |
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A trick to get the throttle cables routed right is to tie a wire to them at the throttle bodies pull them out then tie the new cables onto the wire and pull them back through worked for me. works for the clutch line as well (Message edited by mhpalin on May 05, 2015) |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 07:04 pm: |
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I don't suppose you have pictures of what you mean? I don't know what a throttle body looks like :\ |
Mhpalin
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 07:14 pm: |
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that's were the the cables attach at the engine (throttle bodies-carbs)does that help |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Tuesday, May 05, 2015 - 09:59 pm: |
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Java...go here pix show the throttle bodies ...pix #7 or #8 show where they connect to the "butterfly valves" that control the amount of air coming into the engine (the post is an early post showing removal of the solenoid that was installed at the factory to meet EPA noise regulations, but it also caused abrupt throttle action in high RPM operation= not good) ...note there are (2) cables one pulls while the other "pushes"...but in reality they both "pull" but in different directions...(one pulls them open, the other pulls them close)...Please make sure you don't have any binding when you re-route ( turn the bars lock to lock checking for twist grip action....or lack of it!) hope this helps: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/490767.html |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 12:43 am: |
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Cool thanks! Do you think I should denoid it while I am in there? Where do I order such a specific part? |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Wednesday, May 06, 2015 - 10:58 am: |
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java... 1) your previous owner may have done it 2) if you have a "race only" ECM (Engine Control Module), you don't need it ( you have to look at the ECM under the left POD ( a small black box about the size of a pack of cigs. and a bunch of wires connecting to it)- it will say "race use only" on the outside of the ECM...the software in the race only ECM ignores the solenoid) 3) Al at American Sport Bike may have the resistor (call them, I don't see it listed - http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Category/1125R) 4) If you have the "OEM" ECM , a local HD shop MAY be able to get the resistor (I've had good luck with New Castle HD in Penna....scroll down for online ordering: http://www.newcastlehd.com/we-help-you-get-any--pa rts 5) if you run it without the resistor an engine fault error message will occur hope this helps |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Friday, May 08, 2015 - 02:53 pm: |
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I found this... http://froggypwns.com/buellpdfs/1125CR%20Handlebar s.pdf does anyone know if this is the legit one? The kit just came in the mail and there are no instructions. |
Froggy
| Posted on Friday, May 08, 2015 - 10:37 pm: |
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If I scanned it, it is probably legit |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 12:14 am: |
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Sweet! Now to figure out how to bleed the brakes and clutch! I don't suppose someone has a good video or diagram for that? |
99buellx1
| Posted on Monday, May 11, 2015 - 09:04 am: |
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There's probably a million videos on YouTube on how to bleed them. |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 09:43 pm: |
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Am I going to need crush washers? |
Nukeblue
| Posted on Tuesday, May 12, 2015 - 10:32 pm: |
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I reused mine. also if no one mentioned it, it's a great time to upgrade your fluid to motul rbf600... **the throttle cables are the tricky part, like froggy mentioned** (Message edited by nuke-blue on May 12, 2015) |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 12:15 am: |
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Is that a specialty brand? I'll have to take a look at what the stores around my area have... [edit] found a local store that has 500ml bottles, how many bottles do you think I'll need? (Message edited by javaman21011 on May 13, 2015) |
Nukeblue
| Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 - 07:43 am: |
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one bottle will do both |
Jeepinbueller
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 12:03 pm: |
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I just did the install last night, for the most part, and everything went great. Took pictures the whole way so I'm doing a full write-up soon. I stripped the Phillips screws for the front brake master cylinder cover ... must've went all Hulk on them last time and really screwed the pooch. Not one——both of 'em. The T30 screw holding the airbox on under the seat has spun its nut free on the backside, so I'll have to cut the screw head off and figure out what I'm going to do there ... probably run with no screw in that location for a bit. |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Thursday, May 14, 2015 - 06:08 pm: |
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Cool! I'd be curious to get an advance copy of that write up because I am planning to do mine this Saturday Wow yea i already ruined my right-rear seat bolt. I got a new seat and these lanyard mounting pins, but one of them won't go in cuz the female end's threads are busted. I bought a thread chaser kit to repair it, but I am having a hard time finding which specific thread chaser to use. I am not sure what size the Torx screw is exactly and how to pick the chaser. |
Javaman21011
| Posted on Sunday, May 17, 2015 - 12:24 am: |
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Does anyone have a pic of the throttle assembly? I forgot to take one and now I can't figure out how the butterfly things attach to the throttle |