| Author | Message | ||
     Aeromech1234 |
I stopped for gas on my way home today. Bike was running great. After filling up, bike won't start. I can here a relay clicking under the rear seat. But nothing else. The fans ran till the bike cooled off. So I think the battery is good. Any ideas? I got a trailer coming so it's not life or death. But still I need this bike to run. It's my main source of transportation! | ||
| Two_seasons |
Check your battery leads for tightness. | ||
| Aeromech1234 |
Did that while I was waiting. Very tight and very clean. | ||
| Figorvonbuellingham |
Didnt fill it with diesel did ya? Or E85? | ||
| Christaylor |
One step at a time, does the engine turn over when you press the starter switch? | ||
| Froggy |
Check the headlight fuse and your headlights, there is a safety that the starter will not engage if they are out. | ||
| Aeromech1234 |
No. The starter does not engage. All I get when I press the switch is a very quiet click from the relay by the battery | ||
| Shawns |
Stand switch? | ||
| Christaylor |
If you have a meter check the voltage at the battery terminals, you need at least 12.5 volts for the starter to turn the engine over. If you don't have a meter or the voltage is less than 12.5 volts put a charger on the battery. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I got the click when my battery terminals were loose. The lights would come on, the fuel pump would prime, and the tach needle would sweep, but as soon as I pressed the starter, everything went dead. If your terminals are tight, the next thing I would check is the battery voltage. | ||
| Christaylor |
Then you need to check the out put of your stator. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Shawns, there is no stand switch. You can ride away with the stand down and the only way you'll know it is when you try to make a left turn and it augers itself into the pavement and puts you on your ass. | ||
| Shawns |
LOL..that would be no bueno | ||
| Aeromech1234 |
I don't think battery voltage is the issue. When I press the start switch, there is no power drain. The fans don't change tone, the Gage cluster doesn't go dark, or even dim. The headlight switch might be the issue, before I came into work, I turned the key on. The only thing that lit up was the most outboard of the 6 lights. These are parking lights, correct? The headlights are the inner 4? I never paid that much attention, do the headlights light up when you first turn the key on? Or do you have to start the bike first? | ||
| Brokengq |
Headlights turn on with the key. Feel around underneath the key switch. Turn the key on and wiggle the wires coming out from the bottom of the key switch. Watch the lights while you do it. If they flicker there's a open circuit in the key switch. Common on the 08 models. Other test for the same thing would be to hold the starter switch while wiggling the wires and see if it ever engages. I don't like this test as much because it is AWFUL for your sprag clutch. It sounds pretty similar to when mine went out. When I turned my key the needle would sweep and the pump would prime, but the headlights wouldn't come on. Due to an open in the headlight circuit the starter wouldn't engage due to the safety cutout to prevent riding with no headlights. Being an 08 the stator not likely to be the culprit, not impossible, just not likely. (Message edited by brokenGQ on April 14, 2015) | ||
| Stimbrell |
Headlight fuse is also the starter fuse, if you blew a bulb and it took out the fuse or there is a short in the headlight wiring that is the problem. (Message edited by stimbrell on April 14, 2015) | ||
| Brokengq |
+1 on stim's fix. Very possible too. | ||
| Rodrob |
There is a a small relay and a big contactor for the starter. If you don't hear a pretty loud click, then the contactor is not working. The start circuit is getting power if the little relay clicks, but no power is getting to the contactor coil. Check the small connections into the contractor ( the round thing that connects to the battery and the starter), when you push the start switch. If there is voltage, then the contactor is bad. If there is no voltage, then the small relay, or the connections from it are bad. | ||
| Aeromech1234 |
OK, froggy and stim are the winner! I finally had time today to take the seat off. Popped the cover off of the fuse box. The fuse for the headlight was melted! Not just blown, but burned black and all deformed. I popped in a new fuse and the headlights came right on and the engine turned over as soon as I touched the button. So thanks to all! (Message edited by Aeromech1234 on April 15, 2015) (Message edited by Aeromech1234 on April 15, 2015) | ||
| Brokengq |
If it was melted I would be a little concerned about the amount of current going through there. Might wanna check it out. | ||
| Mhpalin |
Check your regulator | ||
| Nuts4mc |
+1 on checking the regulator....too much current is coming thru...the regulator uses the rear sub frame as a heat sink...make sure the mounting bolts are tight...there is a white paste (thermal grease...like they use on CPU's and heat sinks in your PC) that is needed to insure good thermal conductivity is maintained...don't wipe it off if you remove the regulator...I don't believe there is any "bench test" for the regulator but if you are going to replace it look in the sub forum on charging issues for further info. a long shot would be one of the small relays ( white?)is toast ...if I remember correctly the V-Rod has similar starting issues caused by the small relay...it's similar to an automotive headlight relay...you may be able to pick one up at NAPA...hope this helps |
