| Author | Message | ||
     Jj5cool1 |
Victoria tipped over today.  Unfortunately the rare side fairings were on it. So I can't go the "buy new plastics" route or you bet I would be ordering them right now. So what is the best way to go about removing these scratches. Some of the scratches do seem pretty deep. I am not body work knowledgeable or skilled so I'm considering taking the panel to H-D or a body shop and see if they can handle it. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'll try to post pics in a bit. Thank you guys. | ||
| Sprintst |
I haven't tried this yet, but my research shows it's the good stuff for filling and repairing http://www.urethanesupply.com/PlastiFix-Kits-1/Pla stiFix-Kit-Black/ I actually have two sets, both need fixing. I've tried a faux carbon wrap on one, didn't turn out too bad actually, and it seems to be staying on well and handling the heat I'm also going to try a plastic rated rattlecan paint and I'll post up if that works well (Message edited by sprintst on April 06, 2015) | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
I guess my pictures are too high quality and it will not accept them for upload. Well further investigation at home seems to show that these scratches are not very deep and a well done sanding and polish should take care of it. Of course I know not very well skilled on how to do it. I've read a few post from time ago describing different methods, equipment, and supplies/chemicals. What I'm hoping is that there is a consensus on a method, the chemicals used, and even a nice step by step on how to do it. So far it looks like I will need to wet sand it starting at around 1000 grit and all the way to 3000. Then apply some sort of scratch fixer like Novus, then a final polisher like eagle one nano. No power tools, just elbow grease. Any more in depth detail is appreciated. Sprintst I'm going to look into it. | ||
| Torquehd |
Use a drill with a 3M sanding wheel. You're on the right track with wet sanding up to the finest grain you can get. And then transition to the 3M buffing pad with some plastic polish. Edit: the 3M sanding wheel and disks can be obtained by purchasing a headlight restoration kit at your local Oreilly's or auto parts store. Unfortunately, it will never look the same. Polishing will help dramatically, but you will never have the same perfect finish that was achieved by injection molding. You could always apply some vinyl design or paint. I made a carbon fiber replacement when I cracked mine, but it's not cheap, and is difficult to obtain professional quality results unless you're a professional. (Message edited by torquehd on April 07, 2015) | ||
| Dennis_c |
Do like Torquehd said with 3M kit it works great spend a little time it will look almost like new that's what I did. Cost around $20 (Message edited by dennis c on April 07, 2015) | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
Got a set of used fairings today with scratches. So I decided to start with those as an experiment. So far I've wet sanded with 800 and the deep scratches are almost gone. I'm beginning to get very confident in that this might work with my original fairing. This is definitely a time and patience kind of thing. I just hope the sanded parts will blend well with the rest of fairing as the fineness goes up. | ||
| Mhpalin |
Yes it will you really have to look hard in the right light to tell on mine | ||
| The_dude |
Pardon my ignorance, but the OP mentions original "rare" fairings. How would one tell the difference between the "rare" ones and the others? | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
Its the factory optional mid fairings that are no longer available new and hard to come by used, let alone cheap. Plus most used ones being sold are so because they are damaged. | ||
| Pmjolly |
How much would a set of the factory mid fairings go for if they were still exactly like new, in the original box, and never installed? | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
I may have bought the last retail new set at $800. Still waiting on them to arrive. But I'm not planning on using them any time soon. | ||
| Brokengq |
Wet sanding with 500, 1500, and 3000 grits in that order, finish with rubbing compound, meguiars plast-x, and polishing compound again in that order. Make sure to do everything in circular motions, and always ALWAYS keep the sandpaper and surface very wet while sanding. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
I've used a razor blade to scrape the plastic and shave it kind of to remove deeper scratches and then follow Brokkengq's regimen. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Novus. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Manly man stickers or lots of sanding and buffing.  | ||
| Brokengq |
I've had people send me plastics in the past for scratch removal/repair, mainly cause I keep the supplies needed in my shop, but I just follow the steps I listed above and charge a case of beer + shipping to and from. I drink the beer and do the steps. Being a sport bike owner with plastic fairings I always recommend everyone keep those supplies at home. Never know when you're going to need them. The plastic is molded in color, so just as long as you do a good finish you can't really mess it up. I mean eventually you can wear through the plastic but that would take more effort than I would be willing to give it. (Message edited by brokenGQ on April 12, 2015) | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Along the same lines guys; what have you personally used to get the last buffing/polishing swirls out of black paint? I have good paint on my full fairing but after about 7 years I have polishing/waxing "swirls" and have lost that mirror finish. Thanks much for any input. Bob | ||
| Brokengq |
Depends on the amount and deepness. If they are light swirls Meguiar's makes a product in a large yellowish bottle called Mirror Glaze polishing compound. The Mirror Glaze has a lot of different products with different cut levels so you have to judge for yourself. Works well though. | ||
| Bob_thompson |
Thanks Chris, that looks like exactly what I'm looking for. My swirls are just from waxing/polishing and are very light. Bob | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
BrokenGQ if you are willing to and I fail miserably with the practice fairing I have I am more than willing to cover shipping both ways and buy you two cases of beer to have you fix it. I wish I could post pictures. Every time it's either too big or wrong format. But so far the practice fairing had some deep scratches and with the 800 I've manage to remove almost all of it except two little pin marks which I may let be. Got the 1k, 1.5k and 2k sheets today and will move on forward. | ||
| Bubba_ |
maybe send the pics to me via email? .. i could post them i expect. usually they're just over the size limitation. i'll PM my email to you | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Sorry to go off subject, but the best way to post pictures is to upload to photobucket or simlilar and then use the \imagelink tag. Then your pictures can be as big and detailed as you want them to be. You can even link to Facebook photos. Like this one. These radiator pods were damaged from a lay over and I used the razor blade method to get the major scratches out.  (Message edited by terrys1980 on April 14, 2015) | ||
| Brokengq |
Jj I'm around and can do it if need be. Turn around time for side projects is a little longer this time of year due to the pay job, but I expect I could get it done and out the door in roughly a week and a half. Good news is that you can ride without the mid fairing or put on the junk set while waiting. Let me know how it goes. Like terrys said sign up for a photobucket account (free) and upload the images there. Then you can either link us to your photobucket or use the imagelink tag to upload them here. Let me know how it goes, pm if you need to. (Message edited by brokenGQ on April 14, 2015) | ||
| Jj5cool1 |
Thank you Terry. I'll have internet today and will try to upload pics through PB. That design looks bad ass. Beautiful CR. Broken I'll let you know. So far I got to 1500 last night. Looks nasty, although getting smoother to the touch. I noticed that the higher I go in grit, the harder it is to keep it wet. Water just slides off. I guessing that is a good thing. My questions: At 1500 I can see some obvious swooping scuff marks from going in circles. They change place as I continue sanding. Is this normal? How do I know when I'm done with a certain grit? Just by seeing the scratches turning from thicker to thinner? No matter how fine I go, I'll still see scratches till the compound is added or should it turn flat and matte at a certain grit? Lastly, what set/brand of compound and polish would you guys recommend or have used with success. Novus stage 3,2,1 H-D scratch remover and polish Meguiers plastx Eagle one Nano Plexus S100 Heard of many kind and in many orders. Going to order them today so want to know what I should get. So far thinking Novus 3,2,1, plastx, eagle nano, and finally plexus as another member on the XB forum did back in 2007. Although tempered to sub H-D polish instead of eagle nano. (Message edited by Jj5cool1 on April 14, 2015) | ||
| Brokengq |
You'll know when you're done with a certain grit by the feel. It should feel even all the way around and through the working area. The heavier grit (500) is to even the surface down to the deepest scratch, but you'll be putting fine scratches in while doing it. So when you step to the 1500 grit you're evening the surface to the finer scratches created by the 500. Of course that still puts in even finer scratches, which is why you use the 3000 grit, which does the same as the 1500 does to the 500. The whole point is to even the surface to the deepest scratch point each time. It'll always feel rough, but you're looking for evenness. Rubbing compound is abrasive, but even finer than 3000 grit paper, so it has the same effect. Same with Plast-X and polishing compound. Make sure to use soft cloths when using the polishes. As you step each time you'll notice the surface pick up a sheen, which turns to shine with buffing. The point of wet sanding the plastic is (mostly) because the fine plastic "dust" created by sanding is actually a stronger grit than the paper you are working with, so it acts as a lubricant to wick it away. If you're having trouble keeping the water on the working surface add a bit of car soap, it raises the cohesion and makes life a little easier. The "swooping scuffs" you're seeing are normal, although remember not to be heavy handed. Let the paper do the work. Light touch is key. Lastly I always use Meguiars products on my cars and bikes. They make a series of products called "Ultimate" that will work for what you need. Ultimate rubbing compound and Ultimate Polish. The polish contains a glaze to help wax adhere to a smooth surface. After polishing the surface will look a little hazy. Once you wax it will disappear. If you wanted to go with a more professional product you could use the Mirror Glaze I mentioned above, but its about $20 a bottle and you'll need two (rubbing and polishing). There are plenty of other products, and I'm by no means a Meguiars salesman, but I've always liked the results from their products. Hope this helps. (Message edited by brokenGQ on April 14, 2015) |
