| Author | Message | ||
     99savage |
Twice this year, while riding in towns, at less than 30MPH, the Ulysses stopped dead and without warning. No instruments but fan and lights remained strong. Both time the 15A ignition fuse had blown. Replaced it and went on. Not a big deal while cruising locally but would be a PITA if the gear was on Where should I start looking for the gremlin? | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Don't know how the wiring is on the uly's ,but i had it happen once and it was making a short on the battery tray. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Louis- On the 2006 Ulys, the wiring around the steering stem area of the frame is subject to breaks and shorts. It can be kind of a PITA to sort out but that's a good place to check first. If you study the wiring diagram in the shop manual it should narrow down which wires to check considerably. Try turning the forks lock to lock with the bike idling in your driveway and see if you can duplicate the issue. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
When that happened to me, it was a cracked ECM. Remove the seat and press down gently on the wiring connectors looking closely at that end of the ECM for a crack to open up. I got home by zip-tieing the ECM back together and then later replacing it under warranty. | ||
| 99savage |
Thanks Just checked the ECM, no visible cracks. (When I got the ride I made some bumpers our of rubber and leather to protect the ECM, they seem to be doing the job.) Will look for problems in the wire bundle when life no longer seems worth living. - I hate that, hate, hate, hate. (When I got the ride installed the new wire guide, which did not keep me from having problems with the turn signal and one other problem.) | ||
| Djohnk |
+1 on the ECM connectors, make sure you check closely like Panhead dan suggested above in good lighting conditions. Your symptoms are very similar to my bad ECM, except for the ignition fuse blowing ... I don't recall that happening. Here's what I thought when I read your post: riding in town makes the bike hot, seat-pan plastic loses its stiffness due to heat and flexes, ECM doesn't like it. I also did the relocate it and force-it-back-together cure for awhile like Panhead mentioned. Got by for several months until I found a used one. | ||
| Arry |
The ignition fuse appears to supply power (grey/orange wire) to the ignition relay, the run switch (kill switch), and the instrument cluster. Also, power (via white/black)to starter switch, this powers the start relay (your problem doesn't seem to be starter related), and again to ignition relay. From the ignition relay (grey) to the fuel injectors, ignition coil, fuel pump (these are the main power using components), also power to the ECM, and Data link. It could be a short or ground in the wiring. This is from the '07 wiring diagram. I realize this is all over the place. | ||
| 99savage |
Thanks all; In good sunlight & while wearing my reading glasses took the seat off and pushed down quite hard on the ECM wile idling => No cracks visible and no discernible effect on the idle. At every stop have been running the bars lock-to-lock a few times => No change in the idle and no blown fuse The negative cable for the battery was missing some insulation near the end and MIGHT have been touching the metal box. On the "just-in-case" theory tape wrapped the bare area and put some tape on the metal box where the cable passes by, but doubt that a negative cable grounding out could be the problem. The problem has only happened twice, both times at low speed and while going straight. Suppose will have to get into the wiring at the next oil change. Hate, hate, hate getting into the wiring bundle. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It's not that bad a job. You have fairly good access. Since you are blowing fuses, yours is likely more than an internally cracked wire, it must be rubbed through and shorting somewhere. That may mean it's something intruding into a wire, not just an internal crack, but it could be either. | ||
| 99savage |
I give up! Was riding thru the toolies, this time aggressively, and again the engine quit. As before - No lights on the instrument panel and starter will not engage. - Headlights remain on & turn signals work Replaced the Ignition Fuse 4 times and every time I turned the key on the fuse blew. Cramped the bars far right, replaced the Ignition Fuse, and this time it waited till I hit the Run Switch before blowing. Buddy picked me up with his backhoe hauling trailer. Will tell that tale after I fix this problem Thought that the problem had to be in the wire bundle near the forks. Have everything exposed now and have been tugging on wires and cramping the bars from side to side for an hour now and cannot recreate the problem. Fuse stubbornly refuses to blow. Bounced the bike by pushing on the ECM and no problems manifest themselves. Have the manual, the color of the wire to one side of the Ignition Fuse is labeled GY/O and the other side R/BK. What color is GY/O? Incidentally will I be making problems if I keep turning on the Run Switch but not starting the engine? (Message edited by 99Savage on September 09, 2014) | ||
| Arry |
GY/O is grey with an orange stripe. Maybe this wire is grounding somewhere. | ||
| 99savage |
The gremlin is hiding. Started Uly up this AM. Tugged on each and every wire. Twisted the bundle. Racked the bars right & left. Examined wires with an magnifying glass, incidentally don't see a gray/orange wire in the bundle. Bounced on the seat. The gremlin has gone underground, thru all that Uly just chugged along. Could the problem be in the Ignition Switch? I have pretty much given up. Can anybody give me an opinion on the how good the factory authorized, Buell repair shops in Syracuse & Rochester are? | ||
| Arry |
The GY/O goes from the fuse and relay area to the right handle bar switch. If the fuse was blowing when you turn on the key, even with the run switch off, the GY/O is a suspect | ||
| 99savage |
Thanks: Found the GY/O wire. Examined it, in sunlight, with magnification, and it looks pristine. Twisted on it, yanked on it and engine kept chugging along. | ||
| Arry |
The GY/O also goes to the instrument cluster. I missed that on my earlier post. I am currently having tach trouble, and looking at wires in that area too. | ||
| Djohnk |
I had to repair my uly ignition switch b4 ... which I dont recommend unless you are a very patient and careful type. Don't remember it blowing ignition fuse or the bike quittng though. Although I do remember dash and various light being intermitant. diagnosed the bad ignition switch by wiggling the key and reproducing the problem. | ||
| Texas_bones |
I just bought a 06 Uly and love it, but had the same issue. Mine was while riding turned right and blew the fuse. Changed the fuse 3 times an blew each time. after tugging on the wire bundle in the neck the gremlin went away and was able to drive home. Cant recreate the problem but plan on digging into the wire bundle. Did you ever find a problem with yours. | ||
| Texas_bones |
One other thing, It was raining. is it possible that a connection under the instrument cluster was wet and that caused the short. The wire bundle looks fine. no sign of pinching or rubbing. I will be cutting it open (very carefully) in the morning to see. is there something I can coat the connectors with to keep water and moisture out? |
