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Dkwracer
| Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2015 - 05:41 pm: |
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Hi, new user with an 06, was wondering if the p/n on the servo will tell if I have newer steel gears? p/n S0138 2AA 5231 Am seeing codes 1-6 and 2-1, is it possible to clear the codes w/o software linky? TY, Tom |
Arry
| Posted on Monday, February 16, 2015 - 12:47 am: |
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I believe that is the old style actuator, the new p/n is S1183.1AA (unless it's been updated again). Your old one probably has torx screws holding it together, the new one has rivets. You can test it by holding the throttle full open, the turn the key on and kill switch on. It should cycle open and close. If it doesn't cycle, or if it's jerky, it's probably bad. |
Teeps
| Posted on Monday, February 16, 2015 - 11:45 am: |
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Dkwracer Posted on Sunday, February 15, 2015 - is it possible to clear the codes w/o software linky? No. But ECM/Spy will work on your '06. I use version 1.12.27 on my '06. You can make or buy a cable. http://www.ecmspy.com/demodownload.shtml |
Dkwracer
| Posted on Monday, February 16, 2015 - 11:57 am: |
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Ok, here is an update, pulled the cover off the actuator, all plastic gears intact, mtr cycles very well even if I introduce tension on the arm, the cable is a bit raspy so will remove the covers on rh side to investigate, ? tho, since I did not see micro switches or optical sensors on the internals, how would the ecm be able to detect, valve always open vs closed, closed circuit AFV feed back, or possibly current overdraw detected from the mtr feedback? What a bike!!!! |
Arry
| Posted on Monday, February 16, 2015 - 02:03 pm: |
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On mine it wasn't the gear teeth that went bad, so they look OK. It seems like there are "nubs" on the side of one gear that get rounded off (if I remember). Someone did a fix instead of buying a new one, so that is an option (might find it in a search). Definitely lube the cable and get it operating with low resistance. |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Monday, February 16, 2015 - 02:33 pm: |
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Lube the cable and also the valve down on the muffler. That gets a lot of crap on it. |
Danair
| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 09:12 am: |
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Be super careful about moving those gears by the bell crank, even a little bit to remove cable, or you will find the common failure point on those. At the adjuster you can see that it has 2 small notches where the lower cable goes in. One can spread it apart right there and it will unsnap and you can slide that up the cable out of the way. Then you can get your cable lube fitting on to the lower cable. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 10:08 am: |
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Arry, I did that fix and it works just fine. I'll search and re-post. Very easy fix for that worn nub problem. Very weak original design I'd say. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Thursday, February 19, 2015 - 10:17 am: |
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Here is my fix for the worn nub and it's with photos. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/741661.html |
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