| Author | Message | ||
     Advoutlander |
What paint should I use to give a lasting paint job on the exhaust? | ||
| Callawegian |
I have had real good luck with Rustoleum BBQ paint. I have 2 miles of gravel to ride to get to paved surfaces. I usually touch it up every couple of years. My 06 Uly stock paint job did not hold up as well as my 03 Lightning's stock paint job did. | ||
| Timbobuell |
por15 black velvet heat resistant high temp. not recommend but you can paint over rust or roaches. amazon 20 bucks evil good. wear gloves or you will cuss | ||
| Motorbike |
I had the muffler on my 08 XT sandblasted and ceramic coated a few years ago. It seems to be holding up real well. If I remember correctly, I paid about $80 to have that done. I highly recommend it. Thanks. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
i will agree with the POR 15 Black velvet. do it once and forget it....just don't get any on you or you're discolored for life I just recently modified my can and plated it with dull nickel which matches the uly colors to a T. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
i would post a pic but clicking on upload attachment does nothing lately | ||
| Big_island_rider |
This is what I did: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/739533.html Used Rustoleum High Heat 2000 degree paint. That was 7 months ago and it is holding up well. (Message edited by big island rider on January 26, 2015) | ||
| Xbimmer |
I second the Rustoleum if you like a painted muffler.  3 years ago and mine still looks good. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/650270.html Since I painted it a hole opened up under the nose but that was from inside corrosion, the painted muffler washes up pretty good. | ||
| Big_island_rider |
Xbimmer, Your post was the reason I used that paint.  | ||
| Trevd |
I brought my muffler it to an industrial paint place, and got them to paint it with Cermakrome. http://www.techlinecoatings.com/industrial/cermakr ome.html They sandblasted the existing paint and rust off of it, then put this stuff. I got it in black. That was almost 4 years ago, and it still looks like brand new - not a bit of rust on it now. Well worth the $120 (I think) I paid. I'm no longer ashamed to park my bike in the snooty areas of town where they look down on bikes with rusty mufflers. | ||
| Tempest766 |
Pulling my exhaust and painting it with a high-temp paint is something I've been considering as well. My 08xt can is pretty red with surface rust at this point, but it is still just that; surface rust. How easy is it to remove the can? Do I have to disconnect any oil feeder lines? Also, it almost looks like when HD dealer reinstalled the thing (it did have a Hawk one on it that was too damned loud when I bought it) they soldered/welded the header pipe to it, or might it just be a filler compound? I also remember reading something about replacing the header clamp every time you remove the muffler. Is that true? | ||
| Griffmeister |
According to the manual, the header clamp and the front strap should be replaced every time. Quite a few people here don't bother. I suppose you could use age as a factor, maybe. There's no mention of putting anything on the joint, especially since this should slide easily until the muffler is completely secured then clamped. You'll have to examine it closely when you take the clamp off to see what the last person did there. Oh yeah, three straps and one clamp hold the muffler on, just remember to disconnect the exhaust cable too. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Get the manual. It costs less than some of the things you can screw up on this bike by just attacking parts with tools. That said there is a sequence to removing/installing the muffler which is important. I've never replaced the rear clamps or the Torca clamp after many removals in almost 100K, but I'm on my 4th front clamp now, the second did break at the spot welds. You don't need to buy factory any big rig truck supply or hose supply shop will have T-bolt clamps to fit, however the factory clamps do seem a bit thicker. Mine that broke was factory after warranty service so I'd bet the hamfist that worked on my bike didn't follow the book. That area is a good thing to spot check occasionally: header nuts, muffler mount bolt, front strap, Torca clamp. Any of those loosen up or break and it's dominoes, I've had it happen. | ||
| Tempest766 |
@xbimmer - I do have the manual, but as has been discussed many times, following the manual step by step ain't always the best way...as is evident by the stripped and then rethreaded idler pulley studs I created when I did my first rear tire change several seasons ago. :^) | ||
| Woodnbow |
Just buy the appropriate clamp from Al at Americansportbike.com always a good idea to support the major supplier of parts for Buell Motorcycles. We want him around for a good long time! | ||
| Xbimmer |
Sorry I jumped to a conclusion, and yes you're right about some inaccuracies in there. If the muffler still has the rear clamps positioned as factory (where the idler pulley inhibits access) you can make it easier on yourself next time by reversing them so they can be loosened/tightened from the left side. Also I'll support the muffler on a box under the bike, makes it easier to get the cable hooked up. The front strap needs to be inserted through the front mount before you bolt the mount to the engine. Antiseize the muffler inlet before fitting it to the header. DON'T over torque any of the stuff. My bike is an '06 so I can't answer to your oil lines, mine stay put. And if that dealer put ANYTHING but antiseize on that joint you might be in for a difficult removal. Support the loosened muffler from below and you can persuade it with some taps on the nose from a rubber mallet and maybe a resisting can will pull free. Don't force anything. That's about it from me I think. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Mine's an 08 and the oil lines stay put, just make note of how the exhaust valve cable is routed if you decide to move it out of the way temporarily. I would recommend buying or borrowing a pipe expander to open up the muffler inlet. Installation goes a lot easier when you can slip the muffler into place and find a nice neutral position without struggling. I didn't do this the first time I had my muffler off. Paid the price when the bolt that holds the front clamp bracket to the engine kept breaking. | ||
| Gobadgers |
I would think Rustoleum would work well, but I have used the same paint I have used on my woodburning stove, and it has worked well. Since I have a very slight fleck in the paint for the wood stove, the muffler now has that same look. Only thing I can add to the thread, like Xbimmer said, be careful when putting the straps back on not to over-torque. If you do it by feel you can easily over-torque. Follow the torque settings. And even then carefully watch the straps tightening around the muffler. They have a lot of leverage and can bend the muffler. | ||
| Poppinsexz |
Sandblast then Cat muffler paint. Awesomeness | ||
| Tempest766 |
Now...my fortune for a garage that is not 11 degrees farenheit to work on the bike in...Brrrr..... | ||
| Big_island_rider |
Not quite a fortune but Ship the bike here..........................$1,500 Fly here.............................................$ 1,200 Garage that is 80* year-round....Priceless (This is not a Mastercard commercial)  |
