| Author | Message | ||
     Harryofhorsley |
Dear fellow Buellers, I'm having a very big problem and would really appreciate some help. Background: I bought a UK 2008 (reg 2010) Buell 1125r last year and the bike has covered a total of 11100 miles since new. I am obsessively looking after this bike! The bike has the EBR race ECM fitted (just had it remapped for the HMF exhaust), HMF exhaust and K&N air filter. Had a clutch weep problem initially so fitted the Oberon slave cylinder and has been fine since. As mentioned above, EBR recently remapped my race ECM - when the previous owner bought the ECM a HMF map didn't exist. The bike has run better than ever since. The problem(s): Now, there has always been one little problem. Every time I start the bike I have to blip the throttle because otherwise the bike will die at approx. 2500 rpm under load. When blipping the throttle you can hear the bike cut out very briefly. This (up till now) has only ever happened once after first starting the bike. As long as I blip the throttle once then the bike is fine for the rest of the ride. I can live with this. The worse bit: I covered 400 miles over Christmas on the bike and it didn't put a foot wrong. Since getting back to London, however, things have taken a bad turn. I was taking a quick ride (4 miles) and at first everything was normal. Then, I was sat at a traffic light and the bike died when I tried to pull away. After that point the bike kept cutting out and back in again at anything below 3500 revs - this is incredibly frightening! I had to keep the revs very high and slip the clutch to get home. I have been going on short rides around my local streets tom try and diagnose. The problem is very intermittent and doesn't happen on every ride. It is incredibly dangerous when it does!!! I have tried the TPS/IAC reset and the obvious but had no luck. Had a look at the fuel pump on diag mode and it seems fine - not sure what the normal IAC steps are? I'm thinking spark plugs, faulty connections, grounds...........? I have no idea where the grounds are!? Please help someone!!! And a very Happy new year to everyone Harry | ||
| Oldog |
Harry, check the clutch switch, when you pull the clutch in while in gear it drops the revs, when you let it out it blips the throttle for you as the clutch goes out, it makes a difference if its working, as for the full shut down, one other thought what condition is the battery in?? Happy New year from NC-USA... | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Hi Oldog, thanks for the reply. will check the clutch switch, thanks for the advice. The battery is only a couple of months old and I charge regularly so I think(?) it's fine. I was also wondering about whether the side stand switch is faulty? I'm getting so sick of this bike!!! | ||
| Shawns |
I had dirty fuel injectors and mine would cut out or stall. | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Hi Shawns, how did you clean them mate? harry | ||
| Shawns |
You can open them with power and ground or run a quality injector cleaner through them | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Thanks Shawns, will have a go. Also, seems to happen more when the bike is hotter if that makes any sense to anyone? | ||
| Oldog |
Hard to say Harry, we are pulling at straws, stalls on take off, shuts off Fuel pressure Seems OK Do you have the standard ECM that came with the bike ? If so swap it out and see if the problem still exists. lots of signals to the ecm. you have had program changes made, Not to be insulting check simple things, like the side stand switch,connectors,grounds etc..... | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Hi Oldog, Unfortunately I only have the EBR race ECM that came with the bike. Had a new map flashed by EBR a month ago but that seemed to improve the bike. Throwing it down with rain here in London at the moment. Will check wires and connections in the morning and report back. Not insulted at all! Any help is very much appreciated! Harry | ||
| Froggy |
You only mention issues below 3500RPM, how is it above that? I'm personally thinking the IAC may be acting up, as it controls idle and it sounds like it may not be allowing sufficient airflow in some situations. If you have the air box off to get to the injectors, might as well try cleaning the IAC while you are there. These steps are for a XB, it is a similar procedure for the 1125. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/634269.html | ||
| Nuts4mc |
a)the ignition switch has a tough time keeping it's act together(connection of all the correct circuits) due to too short of a wire loom ...check it out ...does it cut out only if you turn the bars all the way to the right or left?...the base of the switch separates due to the wire strain. b)the grounds (or "earth" as they say on your side of the pond) are subject to "un-earthing" themselves...check the battery connections ( clean and tight?), the ground under the undertail near the swing arm ( follow the (-) battery cable...you'll see it use a 1/4" drive 10mm socket to check it) and if you can there is one up on the headstock...( after all this you would think the "Price of Darkness:Mr. Lucas" paid a visit to the Buell wire harness assembly line)....hope this helps | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Hi guys thanks so much for your input Right, I don't have a side stand switch. I'm not sure whether this is normal or if a previous owner has removed it. I have just sprayed a can of intake cleaner down the iac pipe and intakes. I just need it to stop raining long enough for me to try it. All earth's are tight. I'm about to empty a can of contact cleaner on all visible electrical plugs too. I tried the moving the handle bar trick yesterday but it appeared to make no difference. I'm starting to think it might be the iac however. Unfortunately, I think I will have to rotate the engine to get to remove the iac. I don't have the space or a stand to do this. Does anyone know what the iac values should be on the diagnostic mode? Will report back. And thank you all very much. Harry | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Sorry Foggy, I forgot to say, if I manage to get the revs over 3500 then it seems to pull fine and stable. I just wish it happened every time. I hate intermittent problems!!! Harry | ||
| Shawns |
You don't have to rotate the engine to get at the IAC. You can either remove the throttle body assembly or just get it off the intake boots to rotate it to get at the screws. There are 2 plugs and your throttle cables to remove. When I did mine I just removed the whole thing to make it easier to work with. | ||
| Oldog |
Good catch Froggy! | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Right, just went out for an hour or so (bloody freezing by the way!) and the bike did seem to behave better. I could tell that it was stumbling a little around the 2000-3500 rpm section of the rev range but didn't cut out. I have gone and bought some new spark plugs merely to eliminate that possibility, I will try to install them tomorrow if I can get back from work a little earlier. Shawns, sorry mate, would you be able to explain IAC removal for a novice!!!??? Very best wishes, Harry | ||
| Shawns |
Remove cover for air box and airbox assembly. You should be able to see the throttle bodies. I believe the bolts for band clamps on the intake neck are 7mm. Loosen the top 2 so you can remove the throttle bodies. Disconnect the harness's for the TPS sensor and the IAC motor. You can either disconnect the throttle cables or leave them intact. Pull up on the throttle bodies and rotate to access screws for the IAC. Remove and clean. Hope this helps | ||
| Shawns |
My 09 manual shows it listed under 4.3 sensors. | ||
| Foxy_1 |
Harryofhorsley - Happy new year to you, just reading your thread I had exactly the same problem....it was the front plug breaking down, changed it and bikes runs perfect, there are a few how to guides about on how to change this without engine rotation. Good Luck | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Thanks loads Shawns, very kind of you. I will do that this weekend and see how it goes. Managed to get home a little early so just changed the spark plugs (without rotation - thanks Foxy 1). Both old plug gaps were way out of spec and the rear one looked dark and corroded (white thread) - maybe a little water ingress stopped it sparking correctly? Need to get some high temp grease. Anyway, this seems to have had a very positive impact on driveability. Still grumbly at about 2000-2500 revs but much, much better. Still had to give the bike a blip at first idle to get over that hurdle I have mentioned before. By the way I should probably explain this a little better. I don't have to open the throttle to start the bike. The bike (usually  ) starts perfectly and idles fine. But, if I don't blip the throttle once before setting off it will stall. After that it's fine for the rest of the ride. When I start it again, however........... and so on. The strange thing is this bike has always been really quite smooth at low revs especially since EBR remapped my race ECM for the HMF exhaust (certainly no Honda!). This problem has been very recent. Thank you all very, very much and I will keep you posted (assuming you are in fact interested)after the IAC clean  | ||
| Stimbrell |
Actually the stall on the first setting off after each start with the EBR ecm, unless you blip the throttle, is a long standing issue for those of us in the UK, you can find several threads using the search function, fixed mine using Tunerpro and changing the timing values off idle back to the stock ecm values. Good luck. | ||
| Harryofhorsley |
Thanks for the heads up Stimbrell. A really lovely bloke on the UKBEG forum has very kindly agreed to look at my bike with me. He's brilliant at ECMspy so hopefully we can sort it out! |
