| Author | Message | ||
     Mikethediabetic |
So its getting to the end of the riding season for me up here in the northeast. I have been noticing the clutch slipping recently. Only in 4th and 5th gear but it still slips bad in them. I tried adjusting the cable three separate occasions and thats not it, tried 2 different fluids in the primary and it still does it. My bike is a 2000 X-1 with about 10,000 miles on it. I feel its too early to have the stock clutch go but im not basing that on anything. So is my clutch gone? and if it is, what would you recommend as a good replacement. | ||
| Oldog |
did you adjust the throw out or just the cable? Mike the clutch is not difficult to work on. | ||
| Oldog |
if you elect to open the primary, consider the following service upgrade jobs, 1. remove the spring plate, replace with 2 steel and one fiber plate ( and additional plates if needed ) 2. replace the primary shaft seal (engine) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
10K is pretty bad for a clutch. Lots of city riding? Mine lasted just over 50K and it only died due to the grenade plate doing its thing. | ||
| Two_seasons |
You will need to remove your derby cover. Follow the Field Service Manual to a tee I've got almost triple that mileage on two of my tubers and zero issues following the FSM! | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
thats what i figured, i thought 10k was way too early for a clutch. i did have it off recently to fix the primary adjuster.i adjusted the cable correctly and the adjustment screw. are there any threads on adding the 3 other plates? | ||
| Alfau |
The spring plate has been known to fail and cause serious damage earning itself the dubious name of "Grenade Plate". remove the spring plate and replace it with 2 steel and 1 fibre. Go to the h/d stealer ship near you and purchase xl sportster plates as needed. See Figure 6-13. The clutch is a wet, multiple-disc clutch with six steel plates (1), one spring plate (2) and eight fiber (friction) plates (3) stacked alternately in the clutch shell (4). The order of plate assembly, from inboard to outboard, is as follows: F - St - F - St - F - St - F - Sp - F - St - F - St - F - St - F (F = Fiber plate, St = Steel plate, Sp = Spring plate) The fiber plates (clutch driving plates) are keyed to the clutch | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
So i can just add the three plates to the stock clutch replacing the spring plate all together? sounds perfect. are there any links to a DIY or something outlining step by step? | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
Nobody has any threads about the plates? I have had the clutch off before but did not dive into the plates. I need help understanding how adding the three plates allows you to remove the spring plate. | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" can tell you about my clutch plates !!! When "i" product improved my OEM clutch "i" used clutch plates that had a lot of hard miles on them to up-date with ... Have 111,819.6 miles as of the last ride and no clutch problems !!! Of course it makes a big difference if the following are adjusted correctly: shift lever, clutch, primary chain, and drive belt !!! | ||
| 46champ |
Mike you will need some things before you open it up #5949 99-00 X1 OEM Service Manual (+ $60.00). You will also need americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/5493. The plate you are going to replace is in the middle of the clutch pack. | ||
| Kev_m |
Mike, I don't know if there are any threads here detailed the clutch spring plate replacement, but there are a bunch of threads on the XLforum (www.xlforum.net). I've not done it on my S3T (yet, though I wonder if the previous owner did). But I have done it on my XL1200Lr (after the plate grenade, which meant it involved an hour or two of dremel work removing the grooves from the basket that the plate rivets caused). | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
ok i get it a little bit better now. After seeing the spring plate and realizing that its in the middle of the clutch pack everything makes sense now. I will just get a couple more plates from H-D and be all set. My other stock plates should be fine with only 10K on the bike right? so all i will have to get is three other plates? | ||
| Kev_m |
Unless your clutch was seriously abused, yeah, they should be fine. If you have a service manual check, there may be a spec for mic'ing the individual friction discs or steel plates (or sometimes a stack of one or the other). But a visual check should be fine, if the friction material is still noticeable you're probably fine. At ~22k my friction discs and plates were all fine on the XL EXCEPT the 2 friction discs that were in contact with the spring plate, the exploding rivets and jagged surfaces on the plate pretty much toasted them. So in the end I needed another two additional friction discs (besides the one that was going between the two new steels). It probably sounds more complicated than it is. Once you're in there it's pretty dead simple. | ||
| Mike13 |
Don't mean to hijack but, would doing this remedy the issue with my clutch engaging way too soon? When letting out the clutch it catches like right now. I've adjusted per the manual but didn't help much and I'm at the end of adjustment at the clutch. This is on a 98 s1 with 10k. Thanks. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Mike13 - start a new thread. But to shortcut...adjust both the lever, AND the clutch inside the primary, per the manual. If you don't have a manual...get one. | ||
| Alfau |
Part No. HD-38515-A Clutch Spring Compressing Tool and Part No. HD-38515-91 Forcing Screw you'll need to buy or make one of these. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/589522.html http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/193459.html?1148254375#POST642880 | ||
| Kalali |
Mike13, check your throw out bearing for excessive play and have a new one at hand. It's cheap. | ||
| Mikethediabetic |
thanks guys i should be all set. I will fashion up the tool no problem, seems pretty straight forward. I have never been inside the clutch basket before so i wanted some insight before i dove in. Probably wont get to this for a couple weeks, the riding season is almost over up here anyways. | ||
| Alfau |
americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/5493 I missed this, it looks affordable and safer to me. | ||
| Kalali |
Reread the original post and just wanted to point out that the presence of the spring plate all by itself should not cause the symptoms described. I guess you'll find out when you take it all apart. | ||
| Oldog |
Mike I did this a long time ago, ( I coined the term "grenade plate"), If you changed the shoe for the chain you can do this the s1 manual ( on line ) will show the OE arrangement, as Alf said earlier not much to it. you need the clutch tool after the cover. |
