I have a 95 S2 I just bought and cannot get it running. The guy that had before me rebuilt the carb and I have found several things amiss with it. He said it was constantly leaking from the overflow...Lol, because the drain screw was backed out, also the idle/air screw was all the way in(I backed it out 2.5 rounds from soft seat). Anyways, I can get it to start and run the starting fluid from the carb then it dies. I am assuming it is getting no fuel. I tore carb apart and found the following. 1. Main needle has clip on center ring, is this stock setting? I also found another washer (possible shim) on the needle. Remove or leave? If leave is there any special adjustment to compensate for the shim? Thanks in advance for any help guys.
The shim is for quicker throttle response. What are the jets? And, where's the float set? If it's set too low, it could be the needle never unseats to allow fuel in the bowl. Also pull the fuel hose, and open the petcock - does it flow?
Yeah, I've tried the valve and line. Fuel is flowing great to the carb. I do not know what the jets are. How do you find out? I am having an awful time figuring out where the float should actually be. I've seen measuring tools online but I do not have any of those or access to them. Is there a simpler way of determining where it belongs? Thanks for the reply.
The float should be "about level" from right to left, same line as the bowl gasket.
If it isn't...bend the tab.
For the jets, it's etched into the top face of the jet where the screwdriver slot is. Since it has the shim and clip done, you're probably looking at a main in the 190/195/200 range and a slow jet in the 45/48 range. Assuming it's a factory CV.
Ok, float was slightly out of kilter and I noticed the cylindrical plunger was not traveling very far. I adjusted the tab and now the plunger seems to travel the full distance. The main jet is 190, the small one is 45, and the needle is 0235. I hope this helps. Thanks in advance for your help.
Lol, Hoot. The only difference is his started and ran in the first place. I removed the jets and cleaned them as well as adjusting the float. I am about to go out and put it all back together and see what happens. Will let you guys know lol. ***Fingers Crossed***
Yeah, I',m sure. I've tried it in the "ON" & "RES" positions just in case it would make a difference somehow. I just put everything back together and gave it a try. Of course, no go. I gently removed carb and bowl to make sure it was getting fuel in the bowl. After still spilling some out it was still a little over half full. I am assuming this about has to mean it's the jets? What do you fellas think?
Starts on fluid, but won't start on gas. Yeah, sounds like a fueling issue. However, it could also be bad plugs or a weak coil. Starting fluid is really easy to light off compared to gasoline. Have you done a visual on the plugs?
Great. I would disassemble the carb completely and clean everything. You can get a rebuild kit from American Sport Bike that includes everything you need (and then some) including the intake manifold gaskets for like $17.
Ok, this may sound like a dumb question but here goes anyway. The main jet, the one in the top of the emulsion tube. The one that has all the little holes in the stem. It has a hole at the top, and a hole at the bottom. Should you be able to look all the way through the main jet and see daylight on the other side?
I am pretty sure that has already been done to it. The guy claimed he rebuilt it. That $17 rebuild kit only comes with gaskets, float plunger and the accelerator diaphram etc... I think my problem is deeper than that. I am thinking of buying the tuner kit which comes with the jets main, and pilot, emulsion tube, etc etc... All the stuff included in the kit your referring to seems to be new on this carb.
You're getting fuel INTO the carb, just not THROUGH it.
Remove the choke from the carb. You could have a faulty choke circuit or a bad choke plunger, and it runs when you ADD fuel by spraying it in manually...effectively enrichening it.
Also, go to the local hobby shop. Buy a set of dental picks. They're awesome for clearing small passages and jets. If you find anything that looks ganked up...pick it gently, then get a can of brakleen with the red straw, press the straw firmly against the opening of the passage, WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES, and spray until the other end of that passage flows cleanly. Repeat as needed.
The posts are greatly appreciated rat no apologies necessary. Well, I have pretty much done what you advised MULTIPLE times. I think I am just going to buy the "Tuning Kit" which comes with all new jets etc... It's on my last nerve because I know it's something simple. The choke thing has not been mentioned though. Would it not at least try and hit if it were the choke? I mean all I had lying around was some 50:1 two cycle gas I've been using to squirt in the carb and make it run. That's pretty rich and it runs smooth as silk on it. Just spit balling here.
Doesn't the needle go down through the emulsion tube to the main jet? (meaning you can see through it (emulsion tube with jet) when the needle is removed.) Could the diaphragm be pinched? Does the carb piston rise is you crank the engine with the throttle full open? (I think it should, right.)
The diaphragm appears in good condition and doesn't "seem" to be pinched. Excellent reading Buellistic. That has about anything you'd ever want to know about that carb. It will be of great help thanks again.
Ok, update!!! It is ALIVE! I pulled it apart again and cleaned it AGAIN, and I found a blockage in the tiny hole in the bottom of the bowl that runs to the accelerator diaphragm. Unblocked and cleaned it out along with re-cleaning everything else and now she's running. She is running really rich though. Any advice on what is causing that? Thanks a million fellas.
Well, it depends. The warmer it gets the more throttle I am allowed before it starts dying, sputtering, backfiring, and smoking. 1. Upon first starting. When, I first start it it idles like a world beater. If I try and give it throttle you hear it start sucking air and starting to die. 2. (After running 5 mins. It still does not smoke and you can give it very little throttle and it will start to rev a bit without problems. 3. After it has ran for 10 mins +. It will start to smoke and I can actually start revving but it will start backfiring, sputtering, but will start revving fairly high in the rpm range and it starts smoking worse. I hope that answers your question.
Ok, I got the oil & filter changed today and filled to the proper level. The bike runs MUCH better with the exception of a hesitation from dead to full throttle. Other than that runs great. That being said the smoking continued . I noticed that it only does it upon deceleration or at idle. Under throttle it does not smoke. Any thoughts on that? Thanks.
Typical symptom of bad valve seats/seals...vacuum sucks oil past the seals, into the chamber. Toss in some MOA (Motor Oil Additive) - good stuff, might rejuvenate the seals and get some more life out of 'em for you.