| Author |
Message |
    
Daftambrose
| | Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2014 - 02:45 pm: | 
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I have a 1999 Buell m2 Cyclone that spontaneously coughs through the front breather bolt and throughout the rest of the air intake. The only reason I can tell it's coming through there is the slight amounts of moisture surrounding the front breather bolt and where the air intake snorkel attaches to the carb.
Another problem I'm having is that, after driving for anywhere between 10-20 minutes it will start losing power. I'll give it throttle and it bogs the engine down even more. Similar to if it were running out of gas. If I pull in and hold the clutch the engine will die after idling all the way down. I've no idea what could be causing this.
It first happened 2 weeks ago at the end of a 7hr drive. One week ago I went for a 2hr drive and it was absolutely fine, ran top notch. And then yesterday after driving for a half hour it did it so I stopped to let it cool down and check things out. Started up fine after 5 min, but did the same thing 10 minutes later.
Just to add, this is my first bike, I've had it for a year, I've worked quite a bit on it myself, but I'm no pro.
(Message edited by DaftAmbrose on September 20, 2014) |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2014 - 03:02 pm: |
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2 possibilities come to mind. Take the bike out, and when the power starts to fail, loosen the gas cap. If power returns, the fuel tank vent hose is crimped, or the vent valve is clogged. Might also check to confirm there are no issues/clogs in the fuel line, ect.
If that doesn't work, time to look at the ign system.
Hope this helps, Dave |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2014 - 03:34 pm: |
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What Akbuell said, and add "set float height" to the list of things to check if it's not the tank vent. |
Gabby_duck
| | Posted on Saturday, September 20, 2014 - 05:08 pm: |
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quote:{Similar to if it were running out of gas}
remove and clean the float bowl & maybe needle and seat.Backfire probably intake gasket/boot.I haven't over hauled this carb before but other's. |
Gabby_duck
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 02:52 pm: |
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Also R&R fuel filter |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 05:13 pm: |
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I know they had a screen in the tank attached to the petcock but no fuel filter so to speak. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 05:19 pm: |
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OH and another thing. The pickup tube on some of these is way to high. I took mine out and cut off 1/2-1". Unless I was driving on twisty roads I would have to put it on reserve to keep it running on straight roads even though there was plenty of visible fuel in the tank. The other option was to keep it more full. And guess what, when it seems like it dies or your running out of gas you stop and put it on the side stand and it all drains over to your petcock area.
(Message edited by Buell_Bert on September 21, 2014) |
Gabby_duck
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 05:32 pm: |
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You may need to pull the carb and disassembled it to run some carb cleaner with the nozzle thru the jets.count the number of turns CW (clock wise) to the stop so when you reassemble you can go to the stop and CCW and CCW back to the original settings. |
Gabby_duck
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 05:38 pm: |
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Do what buell bert says first.If that dosn't do it then what I'm saying will mist likely need to be done.keep us inform |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Sunday, September 21, 2014 - 05:46 pm: |
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The first thing did when "i" got my BUELL was PRODUCT IMPROVE the gas tank vent valve assembly by removing the check ball !!!
(Message edited by buellistic on September 21, 2014) |
Randomguy3
| | Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 11:44 am: |
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If you take the direction of cleaning out the carb (jets, needle, etc.) might as well replace the gaskets and seals while it's off. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 02:21 pm: |
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"IF" you run STP GAS TREATMENT or SEA FOAM at 5K mile intervals, all you will have to be concerned about is intake manifold gaskets ...
Have 111,819.6 miles on my 97 S3T and all that "i" have had problems with was the intake manifold gaskets, so this "TIP" worked for me ...
(Message edited by buellistic on September 22, 2014) |
Daftambrose
| | Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 06:03 pm: |
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I'll try the gas cap thing next time I take it out, also I replaced my main Jet with a 220 a few weeks ago because it was running waaaay too lean. I cleaned everything out with some carb cleaner, and reassembled it correctly. However I didn't do anything with the float bowl. I have new seals for the intake manifold but the alan bolts are a pain in the ass and I can't get em off. I'll keep you updated.
And thank you all so much for the input. It's nice to have some direction when you're at wit's end. |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 06:13 pm: |
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Intake manifold allen bolts:
American Sport Bike (in the sponsor section)
Item #5029 - Intake manifold wrench
Dave |
Daftambrose
| | Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 06:46 pm: |
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Thank you very much Akbuell, got it ordered and on the way.
Also I just took it out for a ride and once it started losing power I popped the gas cap and lifted it up a half inch to let some air in and it got full power back within 1 - 2 seconds. Now I'll just to have to figure out which part of the vent line is causing the problem.
I know there's supposedly no such thing as a dumb question, but this might be one. How do I know if my bike is overheating?
I know my oil pressure switch isn't working, because the part of the wire with the cap on it that is supposed to connect to the switch won't pop on to it and it won't screw on to it. Just falls right off every time. I'm waiting for a voltmeter to check if it's the wires before I buy a new switch.
But since I don't have an oil pressure light to rely on, I'm curious as to what else I can look for to see if my bike is overheating.
Thanks again guys. |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 10:57 am: |
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Most Excellent! ! !
Vent problem identified, so practically all the way to resolution. Good.
Take the wire to the oil pressure switch, and touch it to ground with the ign/stop-run switch on. The low oil pressure light should come on. If so, the wiring is good.
With a multimeter set to ohms, put one lead on the switch post and the other to ground. With the bike not running, you should have a good circuit. If not, the switch is bad. If you can, start the bike and do the multimeter check again. With the engine running and oil pressure up, you should have an open circuit.
Look closely at the end of the oil pressure switch wire. You should be able to carefully crimp the connector with a pair of pliers so it fits tightly on the switch post.
Hope this helps, Dave |
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99 Cyclone coughing/dying + other problems