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Wedosurfer
| Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 03:57 am: |
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I have been putting bandaids on my oil leak instead of fixing it in the hopes that I could do it this winter...bad idea So now I embark on the great journey into my bike and its gonna be fun right? right??? So far I am just working on taking the beast apart. Apparently this has never been done by any of the previous owners and there is grease, oil and road grime EVERYWHERE. I will be posting on here as I go. If anyone has any suggestions of things to look for or what I should do while I'm in there, let me know. |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 04:05 am: |
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Day 3 update... So I took apart and put back together my Primary...but I think I may not have aligned the Chain Adjuster. Yay I get to pull it back apart and make sure its all linked up. However I also was able to clean a large portion of the engine. As well as possibly fix the shifting issue I was having. It was sticking and hard to shift between 1-N-2. 3-5 were normal. Also got the gas tank off. Found a small leak in the tank so I will be patching that when it all goes back together. So I have been going at this for a few days now. I posted to another site (BARF) and was referred here by one of the fellow Bullers. Here is a link to the Imgur that I will be uploading everything to http://wedosurfer.imgur.com |
Mighty_mouse
| Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 11:22 am: |
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While I had my primary off for replacing the gasket I also replaced the crank shaft seal, starter motor gasket & the shift shaft seal. Did you get a service manual? Seen the pics, sweet bike! MM |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 07:23 pm: |
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That is one purdy X1 you have there Cody. +1 on the shift shaft seal. Make sure you have the upgraded primary chain adjuster. Earlier version have been troublesome for others. And, make sure your do not adjust the primary chain too tightly! Very important. Another thing...make sure your drive belt is "scary loose", that is, you can deflect the top and bottom of your drive belt to the swing arm. Very important as well. +1 on the service manual. American Sport Bike sells them. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Monday, September 22, 2014 - 07:48 pm: |
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While you have the primary side off, you may want to take the cam cover off and replace the oilpump drive gear with the updated version. They have been prone to failure. You need access to the primary side for that job because you need to jam the motor from turning while you un-do the oilpump drive gear nut.(and to take off the primary, you need to take off one rocker box.)See Project creep. |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Tuesday, September 23, 2014 - 04:57 pm: |
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Whoa, there..... DO NOT lock the crank from the primary side when loosening the nut on the pinion shaft. You can damage your crank doing this. There is a locking tool specifically to lock the pinion gear when loosening that nut. Also, do not use an impact tool on the nut on either side for the same reason. |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Wednesday, September 24, 2014 - 12:29 pm: |
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I was unaware of that. And respect your input. Thanks Al. |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 08:29 pm: |
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Thanks for all the input everyone. I haven't been able to get back in the garage to work on it since my last post, but will be out there tonight. I do have the service manual. I wouldn't feel comfortable attempting this if I didn't. I just mechanically inclined enough to get into trouble. I did replace the seals and gaskets mentioned! Glad I'm pretty much on the same page as everyone else. I don't know if I have the original oilpump drive gear or the primary chain adjuster. When I pull it back apart tonight I will see if I can tell the difference. I am the 4th owner of this bike and other than the Carbon Fiber and a stator, the previous owners didn't do much. I know the previous two and they are the ones that crashed it. Thankfully the "only" damage was a broken front motor mount. On another note. My front left fork has been leaking recently (again). I had it redone at Harley 9 months ago and they said there might be a small chip and that it might again. Should I just replace this or is this something that is fixable? |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Tuesday, September 30, 2014 - 05:14 am: |
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Annnnnnnnnnnd I've over stepped what I know how to do. The bike is loaded in the back of the truck and is being taken to the Bullers at JT&S Performance. Pics when I get it back and when it is running again. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2014 - 07:31 am: |
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You can sometimes sand out small nicks with scotch brite going the circumference of the tube not the long way from too and bottom. You don't want to sand much and not really enough to see the marks. Good luck. |
Kalali
| Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2014 - 07:45 am: |
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WTF...? |
Jolly
| Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2014 - 09:33 am: |
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What did you run into that you felt was beyond your ability? |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2014 - 12:20 pm: |
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I got a little over zealous with the tear down and made the mistake of pulling the cam cover off. Actually is a bit of a blessing in disguise because the oil leak is due to the failure of pretty much all the gaskets in the top end. Probably could have done the gaskets on my own, but I got flustered and took it to them instead of screwing up anything else. Transmissions scare me a bit. Plus they said they would look into the front fork as well as the shifting issues.(issues pre me pulling anything apart) I think I just jumped in too deep too quick with not enough time to actually dedicate to the project. I love tinkering but need to make sure that it's not during when I am in school as well as working full time. |
Jolly
| Posted on Wednesday, October 01, 2014 - 04:48 pm: |
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I understand completely! We could have helped though, I just did the cam cover pull and oil pump drive gear for the third bike, helped a buddy on his. And I have two more bikes to do the same job on....Would have been able to talk you through the job over the phone and a shop manual in your hands and mine. Couldn't always though for sure!! Learned from jumping in too deep myself then figuring out it was really quite easy, a little intimidating your first time but actually quite easy!..... Havnt had to disassemble a transmission yet so couldn't have talked you through that but the cams..... For sure! I know.... Doesn't help much now! There are great people here that are willing to go to great lengths to help each other out! |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Thursday, October 02, 2014 - 03:04 pm: |
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Next time I will have to take you up on that offer. Hopefully I can figure things out but if not, it's nice to have some back up! |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Monday, November 10, 2014 - 12:27 pm: |
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Well... I got her back. It's amazing how a price continues to jump higher and higher. Cams are back in place, the top end seals have been redone, and it shifts correctly...Now I get to put her the rest of the way back together. I'm both excited to have her back but depressed that I still can't ride her Oh well time to get to work. per my dad: "never have a hobby that you can't afford" yeah yeah yeah per my gf: "next time it needs a major workover, it gets put on non-op and we put a down payment on a new bike" ...I have VERY mixed feelings about this Pic: http://wedosurfer.imgur.com |
Jolly
| Posted on Monday, November 10, 2014 - 12:58 pm: |
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What's left to do?? What do you need help with? I'll be happy to help if I can! |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Monday, November 10, 2014 - 02:46 pm: |
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Checklist is a follows: 1. Tighten up every bolt on the front end. (not sure what happened but the front end feels sloppy) 2. Re-route my breather can and fix a small leak near the tail section. 3. Degrease/wash the entire bike. 4. Find some hardware to mount the fairings. Some of them have disappeared. 5. Switch the Wall-e headlight back to the Big Circle headlight. 6. Pray that it doesn't have anymore issues to make it get put on non-op. (I don't want to shop for a new bike...) Any suggestions for cleaning would be appreciated. I was told to just take it to a car wash and use the hose and some degreaser to clean it up, being careful around all electrical and intake areas |
Oldog
| Posted on Monday, November 10, 2014 - 05:19 pm: |
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front end feels sloppy not very descript, is the stem loose? is the axle loose? is there a brake problem? stearing head bearings, put front end in the air loosen the bottom tree bolts on the fork tubes, loosen the top tree axle pinch bolt snug tree axle bolt until resistance is felt the trees should be free to move with minimal resistance AND NO PLAY, consider removing the clutch cable for the process. tighten lower pinch bolts tighten upper clamp axle bolt and its pinch bolt. later tube frame bikes had a 5pound force to turn the wheel when the clutch cable was off. check for noise and play with wheel on ground by locking the front brake and rocking the bike against it there should be no "clunk". Stearing head bearings can get notchy over time because of wear. this is easy to feel with the wheel in the air, and easy to fix by replacing the bearings and races. front wheel axle set. Axle loosen front axle pinch bolts, loosen axle bounce front end, tighten axle to specs, tighten pinch bolts to spec. good luck on the head light The big round head light is part of the older lightning essence |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Saturday, November 15, 2014 - 05:59 pm: |
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Good news. Everything just needed a once over with a wrench. They had all gotten loose over time? Only was able to get 1/8" twist out of most but there isnt much wiggle in anything. The last things I need to do are: 1. Re-route my breather can and fix a small leak near the tail section 2. Make a tank vent valve. The shop broke mine and now I get to try and retrofit one. 3. Degrease/wash the entire bike. 4. Switch the Wall-e headlight back to the Big Circle headlight. As always Any suggestions are welcomed! |
Bluebueller
| Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 09:59 am: |
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Doesn't hurt to invest in a quality torque wrench for those 'feels loose' situations. some of those bolts can be overtightened which can be bad in the long run, especially on the motor - it's aluminum, very soft! Check this forum out often - there is valuable information and quality people that love Buell and want to make sure we all stay on the road. I'm doing a base gasket replacement job myself this winter. (and oil pump, new crank seal, new front isolator, and anything else I find while I'm in there....) So it's time to get obsessed with BWB again! |
Wedosurfer
| Posted on Monday, December 01, 2014 - 12:48 pm: |
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Doesn't hurt to invest in a quality torque wrench for those 'feels loose' situations. some of those bolts can be overtightened which can be bad in the long run, especially on the motor - it's aluminum, very soft! Check this forum out often - there is valuable information and quality people that love Buell and want to make sure we all stay on the road. Doesn't hurt to invest in a quality torque wrench for those 'feels loose' situations. some of those bolts can be overtightened which can be bad in the long run, especially on the motor - it's aluminum, very soft. I should have corrected my original post. I used a torque wrench to bring them to correct ft/lb specs per my manual. They ended up only needing about 1/8" to become correct. Thankfully it is back in action! I still need to clean the whole bike but it is all back together. |