Author |
Message |
Arry
| Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2014 - 10:24 pm: |
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My right fork has started to leak. I believe some people have posted that they have been able to clean dirt & debris out of fork seals by running film (negative?) under the lip of the seal and pulling the dirt, etc. out. Anyone had luck with this method, any details on procedure. |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2014 - 10:38 pm: |
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If it is just dirt buildup, that will do the trick, if it keeps leaking you could have a more severe issue like worn groves in the fork tubes. Hard part is finding film these days, I tried to stick my phone under the lip of the seal and ended up breaking the screen. |
Rayycc1
| Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2014 - 10:51 pm: |
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they make a little plastic tool for that called a seal saver |
Nillaice
| Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2014 - 11:05 pm: |
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http://www.riskracing.com/pages/Seal_Doctor_Page.h tml#.U_QMvNm9LCQ And http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/category /seal_mate/#/motorcycle/partno/08-0395/ But you say it's the right side, and since the uly is primarily a road-focused bike, I'll wager that the seals are just worn out or you have a nick in your fork. Sooo ... Time to rebuild. It is an intimidating task, but it has been accomplished by many. Even yours truly |
Motorbike
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 - 07:31 am: |
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I tried to stick my phone under the lip of the seal and ended up breaking the screen. Well, they sure don't make 'em like they used to, do they? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 - 08:13 am: |
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A pair of scissors and a two liter soda bottle would probably let you make your own decent tool (in lieu of 35mm film). Or cut plastic from a milk jug. Use what is left over to make rim protectors, because we both know you left your last set inside the last tire you just mounted. |
Crusty
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 - 08:31 am: |
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I'm kind of enamored with these rim protectors: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0546 /?gclid=Cj0KEQjwjtGfBRCN4-LU9ODG1-wBEiQAy_Xp7-IMTY _33xz4rH4fF3WuiV_Im3hPNlser8JYW81XeXUaAj9u8P8HAQ A friend of mine has a set in his shop, and likes them. I haven't used a set yet, but I really like the way they look. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 - 12:00 pm: |
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The old "split tube" looking ones were worse than useless when I tried them. Those look a lot more useful. |
Arry
| Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2014 - 11:03 pm: |
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I'll try the film trick. I didn't know about special tools available so thanks for that info. I may end up having to rebuild, but hoping I can put it off until winter. Thanks for the warning about not trying to use the cell phone, I wont be making that mistake. |
Uly_man
| Posted on Friday, August 22, 2014 - 05:04 am: |
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"Anyone had luck with this method, any details on procedure". Yes, sort of? If you use camera film cut away the sprocket holes first. This stops them breaking and getting stuck behind the seal. Thin Mylar is better or the round (but without any ridges) section of a plastic soda bottle. Hold the film around the fork and rotate it while pushing it UP under the seal. Then angle the film and pull it DOWN while rotating it to drag any debris out. Before you do this you will need to pull down the dust seal. Use a small flat screw driver between the fork outer tube and the seal edge to pry it down. I had this problem some time ago and found that the R/H dust seal was not stopping stuff getting to the oil seal as it had worn. I proved this by wrapping a plastic bag around the fork and running the bike for a few weeks. I then fitted some Kriega gaiters and it no longer leaked which is a lot cheaper and easier than changing the seals. The L/H one is fine. I did a post on this. |
Xbimmer
| Posted on Friday, August 22, 2014 - 01:49 pm: |
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^^^ What Uly_man said. IMHO the brake particles get thrown up there and make their way under the seal. Gaiters work great (I use Moose Racing Fork Skins) and I've not had a leak since in 50K. |
Nillaice
| Posted on Friday, August 22, 2014 - 04:03 pm: |
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i thought it was the torsional load of the brake forces acting more so on the right fork tube than the left, but wear particles seem to make more sense as braking forces should be applied to both fork tubes. |