| Author | Message | ||
     Sludigoh |
All, Based on another thread I started - I was having some electrical warning issues (which have since resolved and went back to green all the time... but I'm still tracking it down in case) and was advised to look at my 77 connector. I pulled it apart, and to me, it looks bad... but wanted to get opinions of the board if you don't mind. So - is this connector bad? Thanks! Todd   | ||
| Rayycc1 |
Looks melted to me...but I'm no expert | ||
| Satori |
I think I would do one of the upgrades shown on badweb if it were my bike. | ||
| Nillaice |
well it don't look 'good' Heat Shrink and UF Splice Kit is the best fix IMHO http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Electronics-Heat-S hrink-UF-Splice-Kit-1-Clam-CPGI-HS-SPLICE-KIT-UF/2 02204319 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/647970.html?1313534545 (Message edited by nillaice on August 08, 2014) | ||
| Mnrider |
That has been arcing and getting hot,yes it's bad. I just cut out that connector and soldered mine. | ||
| Sludigoh |
Is there enough play in them to just cut the connector off and do the kit? Should I cut the actual connector up near the end and peal it off? or cut down lower? Any advice would be great... I'm not a big mechanic but trying to learn. If I have the toys, gotta learn how to fix them myself. Thanks again. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Yes, that connector is damaged. It might still work, but it should be replaced (with a better solution). Where is the thread about the hot tub power connectors somebody scared up at the local hardware store? Those were slick. | ||
| Reepicheep |
(we posted at the same time...) Both connectors are shot, so I would cut both wires as close to the connector ad you can manage, to keep the wires as long as possible. | ||
| Big_island_rider |
Yes it is shot and not worth keeping. Use the links in Nillaice's post to fix it. Ratbuell's solution is the one to use in my opinion. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Found the thread... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/597089.html?1286249434 | ||
| Teeps |
For my money, I'd go with a solution like this: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/edmo 4363884.php | ||
| Ratbuell |
My fix works well enough that yesterday, at just a hair under 32,000 miles and eight years....I replaced my factory battery. My trip started resetting itself every time I started the bike so I figured after 8 years...it earned a new battery. Definitely replace that connector. | ||
| Sludigoh |
All, I did the fix this past weekend, and other than a moment of freak out when I didn't mark the "red" wire (had to figure it out matching cuts) and having just enough wire to hook it up... this fix went great. I used the connector (just slid two of them out of the plastic harness) from the Tyco Electronics UF Splice kit - and then two pieces of Harbor Freight Marine grade shrink tube... Looks great, is running great and I swear it's running cooler than it was before. Thanks again for all the great help! | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Here's another 77 connector replacement idea. The mosfet regulator comes with a 30 amp auto reset circuit breaker and boot cover. That can work as the replacement for the positive wire side of the 77 connector and provides protection as well. The negative side can just be a butt splice and shrink tubed. http://www.wiringproducts.com/standard-circuit-bre aker-boot-red.html | ||
| Etennuly |
About forty thousand miles ago I just cut the plug out of the way and soldered the connection. Mine looked exactly like yours did. Caught it in time. | ||
| Biffdotorg |
What are the symptoms of this connector failing? | ||
| Sludigoh |
This is what mine was doing initially: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/742276.html?1403572729 I found some wires in the ECM bundle that had worn through and wrapped those with tape... which seemed to mostly solve it. Then my voltage monitor starting going red (http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/745383.html?1406954367) and so I was searching down that path... that ended up being the ground was broke on the voltage monitor. But while looking for issues in the electrical I found that plug, thanks to the advice here, I figured it was worth changing now. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The symptom on my bike was a drop in voltage on my kuryakyn voltmeter. Without a meter, the symptom is a dead battery and dead bike. If it gets that far it could also take out the stator and/or VR. Put on a meter, catch it early if it happens, and avoid collateral damage. Meters are cheap. | ||
| Dougm |
I just found my connector melted over the weekend when it wouldn't restart after a short trip (2006 X with 33k miles). It had been struggling at times to start the bike for several months, but I always thought it acted like a weak battery and/or less than perfect grounds. Anyway, I replaced the factory 77 connector with a Deutsch 2 pin, weather proof, high current connector sold by MSD at places like Summit Racing and Jegs. It is the MSD 8184. It is a pin and socket design rather than the blade design. It is also a smaller housing. Seemed to make sense to me rather than a butt splice and heat shrink. | ||
| Teeps |
Dougm Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2014 - *<snip>I replaced the factory 77 connector with a Deutsch 2 pin, weather proof, high current connector MSD 8184. <snip> **It is a pin and socket design rather than the blade design. It is also a smaller housing. Seemed to make sense to me rather than a butt splice and heat shrink. *What is considered "high current"? **Agree; an appropriate, continuous amp, rated Deutsch connector. Would be an excellent choice, providing the crimp is correct. This series is rated 13 amps continuous, higher amp rating is also available. http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_c onnectors/deutsch_dt_series_connectors/deutsch_dt_ 2-way_connectors/ | ||
| Dougm |
Teeps, it appears to be a DTP series connector with 12-14 AWG size pins/sockets. The DTP series is rated for 25 amps. I believe what MSD has done is just put together a kit. http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_c onnectors/deutsch_dtp_series_connectors/deutsch_dt p_2-way_connectors/ | ||
| Teeps |
Dougm Posted on Thursday, September 04, 2014 - Teeps, it appears to be a DTP series connector with 12-14 AWG size pins/sockets. The DTP series is rated for 25 amps. I believe what MSD has done is just put together a kit. Roger that, 25 amps should be plenty... What did you pay for the kit? | ||
| Dougm |
I ordered from Jegs because it was in stock and I get things next day since I am so close. $24 to my door with sales tax. It is also available on amazon for $16 (plus shipping). I just didn't want to wait a few more days. http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD+Ignition/121/8184/10002/ -1 and http://www.amazon.com/MSD-Ignition-8184-Deutsch-Co nnector/dp/B000630362 | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I'd break out the multimeter and do all the stator and regulator checks per Roadstercycle.com help videos. Regulator/rectifier diodes might be to blame and doing the checks will verify whether anything is wrong. If nothing is wrong then you'll know but if some of the diodes are shot you'll know for sure with the tests. Just watch the videos and they show exactly how to check both stator and regulator/rectifier and it is easy to do. http://www.roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20V ideos.htm |
