| Author | Message | ||
     Df3112 |
Hello, Sad to report the first issue in 25K with my 2010. I'm experiencing an issue when at hwy speeds I loose power for a split second, get an engine light then all is well. This all happens very fast. The gauges will drop out and GPS resets indicating a power supply issue. During an hour ride it occurs maybe 2 to 3 times. Weird! Just checking to see if anyone else has seen this happen. Have not started to diagnose yet. Thanks D | ||
| Teeps |
Battery cables loose would be my first place to check. | ||
| Arry |
I've had a similar problem with my '07, for a year or so now. Only happens about once in 2-3 hundred miles (aprox). Loses power (engine dies) for just a second, then the check engine lite comes on for just a couple of seconds, then everything seems normal. Mine does this at different speeds, sometimes on smooth road and steady speed not moving the bars (steering) and moderate temperature. I've looked for a wiring problem and taken apart and cleaned the OFF/RUN switch (kill switch), but haven't cured the problem.?? | ||
| Df3112 |
Whew............got it fixed!  Took a couple hours to diagnose and took the whole front fairing apart including headlight assy. to get to the harness. Ended up being the white w/black stripe wire broken at the area the main harness exits the plastic bracket that secures it to the steering head. Soldered and small piece in the broken section w/ heat shrink and put her all back together. I also cut away some relief in the bracket to give the harness extra room to "bend" as things are pretty tight. Life is good again !!  | ||
| Rayycc1 |
It's funny how life is always good just after getting the uly back in order | ||
| Df3112 |
update......turns out the problem is half fixed. Still does it on the road just as described above by Arry, with the exception mine did it today about 20 times within my 1 hour commute. Guess it's back to the garage tonight. What a PITA! | ||
| Xbimmer |
BAS might be crapping out or worse the ECM. Disable the BAS and see if that makes a difference. Run the bike on the stand and jiggle the wiring at the ECM connectors and push on/wiggle the connectors. When my original ECM died a slight push on the gray connector would shut down the engine. My BAS wore itself out at about the same time and the pendulum inside got stuck and shut it down, found out later from Al I could have just disconnected it and ridden home instead of waiting for a tow truck. My replacement ECM was doing just what you described (among other issues) so I tore into my original and resoldered the connector joints to the board, it's in the bike now and running great, and the intermittent shutoff has disappeared. All this assuming you've checked the battery cables and grounds as mentioned above. | ||
| Xbimmer |
... of course reading your last post again it seems your problem has worsened since you worked on the wiring up front, so maybe something else up there got disturbed. Some of us me included have junked the harness guide up front, and replaced the front ground arrangement completely. | ||
| Froggy |
It is not the BAS, even if the BAS failed and caused the bike to think it tipped, it cuts fuel and ignition until you turn the key off and back on, you can't continue to ride without intervention. Also it wouldn't cause gauges to drop out or accessories to turn off, which indicated a power issue. There likely is another wire that was damaged that is yet to be discovered. | ||
| Df3112 |
battery connections are solid, no issues. I'll start looking at the ground points. Thanks for the feedback. Will keep you updated. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Froggy's correct about the BAS, didn't think about that aspect. | ||
| Df3112 |
So I went thru the whole bike tonight, took it for a short ride and so far so good even though i found no smokin gun. Sorry but I neglected to explain that when i would turn the front end to the right it will kill the bike about 1 in ten times. I just figured the cut-out issue was related. In the morning I have an hour ride to work and should know the real results then. Don | ||
| Froggy |
Given that it actually kills the bike, I would look at wires related to the ignition switch. I can't say I recall it happening on a Uly, but I know its an issue with the 1125R that the wires for the ignition switch are a hair too short and over time will cause similar issues from rubbing against the fairing mount. | ||
| Buell_lee |
I Have exactly the same problem on my 07 just as Arry described except that twice now the bike has eventually come to a complete stop after cutting out a few times. I have checked all the wiring and have just moved my ECM again. It was down the side of the Battery and was getting very hot. I'm looking at it again this weekend and will keep you all in the loop. | ||
| Df3112 |
Still no luck. Cut out 5 times this morning on my ride to work. Last night I went over the entire electrical system including grounds. Un plugged cleaned, re-connected everything. I ran the bike on the stand and pulled wires around as well. Even took the R/S handlebar switch pack apart to look at the kill switch. Cut-out is still very quick and not related to bumps or turning, Maybe it is the ECM. just hate to buy a new one and it's not the root cause. | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
I've got in the habit of using this stuff on every connector I take apart, ground connections, even battery terminals and clamps; http://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-22-15m-Kit-Concent rate/dp/B001E53PG6 Read the reviews. (Message edited by Jesse Lackman on August 07, 2014) | ||
| Jesse_lackman |
More reviews; http://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml /dp/B001E50GQS/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top#customerRe views Company web site; http://www.stabilant.com/index.html | ||
| Froggy |
Df3112, your accessories that are losing power, how are they hooked up? Accessory line/headlight line/direct to battery/etc. Also when the power loss happens, do you notice if your headlights or turn signals go out? I'm wondering if the ECM is the culprit in this situation. Has it been relocated (or otherwise shielded) or is it still in the stock position? | ||
| Df3112 |
Froggy, I do have the Buell Garmin GPS. It's wired per the stock harness it came with, plugged into the vehicle harness behind the fly screen. I do see the GPS drop out just as it will if you turn off the kill switch on the r/s switch pack. Also notice the gauges drop down for a spit second. i don't believe i'm loose total vehicle power, just the ignition circuit. I'm leaning towards ECM as well. | ||
| Gamdh |
A little late... I had a similar issue with my 2010 a while back. In my case a new ECM fixed the problem. I checked a bunch of stuff with no luck.. and then finally broke down and bought a new EBR ECM....in my case problem solved. | ||
| Alchemy |
DF3112, I have a 2010 with a very similar symptom. I get a stumble and Check Engine Light for 3-5 seconds and then the light clears and things resume as normal. I may see the needles in the gauges sag as this happens. I have been living with this for several weeks. You might want to check for a problem code. There is a method for this by shorting some pins and counting beeps. I had a code. Some kind soul has posted a list that includes the 2010 bikes which are a bit different. It was related to the engine temp sensor. First I tried new air cleaner, new plugs, checking for shorts and loose connections. Eventually I replaced the engine temp sensor which I do not recommend if it can be avoided. Nothing helped. Today I took the bike to a HD dealer and had them try to diagnose it. They reported code PO118 - "engine temp sensor high/open". This is essentially the same code I had before I replaced the sensor so I tend to think it is an erroneous error code. HD could not confirm any wiring problems or sensor issues. HD suggested that the problem was either a bad sensor or a flaky ECM. The HD tech commented that his experience with Buells was that there was a heat issues with the ECMs. He said he had replaced a few. The CEL reappeared on the way home from the dealer - sigh. My approach at this point is to replace the ECM with something from EBR. Assuming the ECM is the problem then I have to wonder if there is an issue with heat that can be addressed to avoid replacing ECMs periodically. I see people constructing brackets to relocate the ECM for instance. I have been wondering if the EBR ECMs are any more durable than the stock ECMs. I can't remember seeing one fail but I might have missed it. | ||
| Df3112 |
Yup, That's what i'm thinking too... Gamdh, does the EBR ECM run better overall than the Buell 2010 stock ECM? | ||
| Froggy |
The issue is not the heat, but physical contact to the ECM from the seat that breaks the solder joints internally. The fix is relocating the ECM
They are physically identical to the stock ECM, just different programming. Oh and they etch "Race use only" onto the case.
Lightyears better. It is how the bike should have run from the factory, not how the EPA requires. I'd offer to loan you mine for troubleshooting and a test drive, but I don't believe it will work on a 2010 due to the differences with the fuel pump and O2 sensors vs mine for an 08/09. | ||
| Alchemy |
Froggy, thanks very much for the comments. I am not aware of any organized/designed replacement bracket. This could be a product if it is the solution. I have to wonder if anyone has bought a new ECM and also relocated the ECM and then had a failure. Or if all relocation have been a durable solution. I have seen posts about resoldering the ECM to fix it. I may try this if I can get to the connections. I believe I have all the tools to do it well. I worry about the ECM nut underneath the fan shroud being difficult to remove and replace. I wonder if it is a captured nut in the 2010. When I did the comfort kit mod on a 2006 Uly that nut was difficult. So there are plans for an ECM relocation bracket then that would be good. I also think the idea of a loaner ECM would have surely helped me over these weeks. Maybe even someone wants to offer to try to repair ECMs. My 2010 bike has been amazing and I want to put this issue to bed (still assuming that is the issue). | ||
| Alchemy |
Another approach might be a stiff cover over the ECM that prevents flexing from pressure and also might act as a heat sink of sorts. It might bolt right on using the existing fastening points. It might extend the surface area available to dissipate heat which couldn't hurt. I think I have seen some approaches like this. | ||
| Alchemy |
This might be specific to the 2010 Ulys but the ECM fasteners have been improved from those used in the 2006 Uly I had previously. There was a difficult nut on the ECM to manage after installing the comfort kit on the 2006 year model. In the 2010 they have eliminated the nut and and that front fastener is now connected directly to a threaded hole in the trunk pan. Now that I have removed the ECM in prep for replacement, I can't see any easy way to do any touch-up soldering. The ECM is potted so the potting and molded housing would have to be cut away carefully. | ||
| Gamdh |
As Froggy said.. YES. Note that I also fitted the Drummer at the same time... | ||
| Alchemy |
Gamdh, Thanks for contributing to this thread. Do you have any ideas about relocating the ECM that you have been considering? Now that I see that the ECM fastening arrangement is pretty straight forward, it seems easier to try different approaches. I am happily awaiting the arrival of my new ECM from EBR. | ||
| Gamdh |
I have not relocated the ECM. On my '06 I got a second spacer block and added it. On th '10 I have a small metal bracket where the second block would have gone. | ||
| Buell_lee |
I moved my ECM back to the original position and made a bracket of sorts to protect it but still had the same problem. I'm now going to put my EBR ECM back on, (I took it off because it backfired too much and I got a good map for the original from Al), in the next day or two to see if that fixes the problem. I'll let you know how that goes | ||
| Df3112 |
update, Got a new (used) ECM, and had a friend of a friend dealer tech throw the 2010 US XB12X cal into it. Issue solved! Running like a top again! I also spaced up the black plastic spacer as to avoid seat contact again. Took a 300 mile 2-up trip this past weekend and watched for seat contact. Nothing. Wish I would have know this up front 5 years ago. Would have saved alot of headache. D- |
