| Author | Message | ||
     Ford88 |
Hey guys, I'm trying to figure out whats causing the transmission to not shift up to 3rd 4th and 5th gear on my 2003 Buell Blast. Also, when I try to shift to 1st, it's really hard, i mean youd have to kick the shifter for it to go into 1st and then have to really pull to put it in 2nd and finding neutral is a bit finicky but its there. I have been researching and reading through all these threads about the trans and what you can do. All my research is pointing me to the shift pawl. My question to you guys is that, does it sound like a shifter pawl adjustment issue or would it be something else? I know that without checking it out we're still guessing. I'll be working on taking the trans cover off and adjusting the shift pawl soon and we'll see if that fixes it. Just wondering what else it could be if it so happened to be not the shift pawl. (bigger trans issues?  ) I bought the bike as a project so don't really know much bout its history. It has 7k miles on the clock. Looking forward for you guys insight. Thanks. Ford | ||
| Reepicheep |
Given the hit and miss nature of which gears shift badly, and the monster force required to shift, I'm guessing its something more than just a pawl issue. Which means you are likely looking at splitting the cases on a Blast.  | ||
| Buellistic |
What causes the start of this problem is: The PRIMARY CHAIN is adjusted TOO TIGHT ... The CLUTCH is not adjusted correctly ... The SHIFT LEVER is not ERGONOMICLY ADJUSTED correctly ... If "i" make a spelling error, feel free to correct ??? Do the SHIFTER PAWL ADJUSTMENT, then the above before you split the engine cases ... Helpful Hint: You should have a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BLAST ... | ||
| Ford88 |
Here's some pictures of what I saw upon opening up the primary cover:  What the hell is this piece in between? Is this the clip that you guys are talking about removing after the first primary chain adjustment done? If so Do I just remove it?  As you can see, the guide is ate up by the chain, obviously was adjusted too tight. Now is this still ok to use or do I NEED to replace it with a new one?  Is this 3rd Gear Position? Reason I'm asking is that i couldnt shift it with the lever so after I got the detent plate off, i just started twisting the drum with a flathead screwdriver while looking at the other picture that pierce have on his how-to post on fixing transmission I found out that the 1 pin on the drum was out too much (more than 8.5mm) so I tapped it back in and made sure they were pretty much even and a bit less than 8.5mm. So am I on the right track? I still have to order parts before I put everything back on, so stuck at this point. Hope to hear from you guys.Thanks. Ford | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - but add two detent clips instead of just one, with the new detent plate. Also chamfer the stator wire protection plate's edges while you are there to better protect those wires - when you do the shift pawl adjustment it will probably shift better than new. Of course new shoes are needed as well - lol EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast's reason for TWO DETENT CLIPS PN 11019 is to HOLD the PLATE,detent PN 33656-90A "TIGHTER"(less play and wobble) ... Ford88's PICTURES: #1. The SPACER on the BOLT,chain adjuster PN 3301Y is not in the PARTS BOOK and is usually removed on the first STEALERSHIP service ... #2. This type of WEAR is the result of TWO adjustments being TOO TIGHT ... On the early Models there were TWO adjustment holes in the SHOE,chain adjuster PN 39946-00Y and the max tension hole for the SPRING,chain tensioner PN 24348-00Y will cause this ... "AND" the PRIMARY CHAIN adjusted "TOO TIGHT" !!! #3. The "PINS" on SHIFTER DRUM ASM. PN 33634-91 is a COMMON PROBLEM since 1990 on this OEM PART ... The "MECHANIC" fix for this is to clean the PIN/PINS, put BLUE LOCTITE(or similar brand) put them back in the correct distance using one that has not backed out ... "NOW" how "i" got around all this BUELLschitte on CORRECTLY ADJUSTING the PRIMARY CHAIN was to put on a "XB" PRIMARY COVER ... "YES" "i" was told it would not fix, "BUT" it does !!! "i" can now adjust the PRIMARY CHAIN to 3/4 inch on the tight spot ... If anyone wants my PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| Ford88 |
How do you replace the "Pins, PN 33634-91" on the Shifter Drum? I mean like if you have to want to change them with a brand new one? Or is the only way would be to change the entire drum assembly? (Message edited by ford88 on August 04, 2014) | ||
| Ezblast |
Only way I know is replace the entire drum - which would mean splitting the case - better to leach some red locktite onto the pin before tapping it in - most of the time that works. EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
On my post "i" indicated BLUE, "BUT" RED would be better ... Foer88 and BUELLers it not necessary to ever replace these "PINS" in the SHIFTER DRUM ASM. PN 33634-91 ... "WHY", because the "PINS" are of HARDER METAL than the SHIFTER DRUM or the other SHIFTER PARTS ... FACT: The transmission GEARS MUST be MOVING in order for the GEARS to MOVE from ONE GEAR to another ... If you ever noticed the SHIFT LEVER/SHIFTER SHAFT ADAPTER does not have SPLINES on them and the SHIFTER SHAFT does ... When the SHIFT LEVER is TORQUED "PROPERLY" the SHIFT LEVER will "SLIP" and not DAMAGE your transmission ... This is a little safety thing built in for people that do not understand how a STANDARD TRANSMISSION "SHIFTS" ... These shifting components get excessive wear in or on them because CLUTCH PLATES are not broke loose(WET CLUTCH) before putting in LOW(1st) gear with a cold engine and running, primary chain ADJUSTED TOO TIGHT, shifter shaft incorrectly adjusted, the clutch not correctly adjusted, and the shift lever not correctly adjusted(ERGONOMTICLY) to riders foot ... (Message edited by buellistic on August 05, 2014) | ||
| Ford88 |
Thanks Guys. Yeah. I put them all back together and tried shifting it(just rolling the bike forward and back - bike is not running). I'm pretty sure I already adjusted it correctly. It still has its hard to shift issue. So I think its the drum. I'm just doing some more research on how to remove the engine and disassemble the engine and separate the case. Also, I found a baker shift drum on ebay but they say "except Blast" so im not sure. I'd surely want to upgrade the drum if im going all this way in tearing up the engine. Here's the link of drum - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Baker-Drivetrain-Smooth-Sh ift-Kit-for-1991-2003-Harley-Sportster-XL-Models-/ 261542219775?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash =item3ce5218fff&vxp=mtr Will definitely need you all's expertise, knowledge and experience when I tear the engine apart. I'm not really a beginner on fixing engines, I've torn down and rebuilt a few already but this will be my first harley/blast engine. Any insight/tips/parts list/etc. Will greatly appreciated. Thanks. Ford (Message edited by ford88 on August 05, 2014) | ||
| Ezblast |
You have to start it and ride it to find out - Buells are known - at least the aircooled - for tractor like shifting - lol - ride it, if it shifts into all the gears - then at most all you need is to redo the adjustment, or just the clutch adjustment. EZ | ||
| Ford88 |
Thanks for ya'll continued help and support. I just did what you had suggested EZ. I started it up and went to do the primary chain adjustment through sound. Just let it idled and warm up. I then proceeded to ride it and check to see if it shifted through all the gears. It did not.  . Still didn't shift to 3,4,5. And still hard to shift on 2nd. I think I don't have any choice but to split the case and go through the gears. Ford (Message edited by ford88 on August 06, 2014) | ||
| Ezblast |
It's always a hard shift to second, I would try the shift pawl adjustment one more time, and then if that didn't help, yes - time to do the trans - but you may not have to split the case to do so, but you'll be in as deep as if you did. EZ | ||
| Uunter |
Huge thanks to everyone on this forum--it's been immensely helpful in dealing with my 2005 lemon. I have similar shifting problems and I'm at the "do I split the case?" crossroads. Humbly requesting your collective wisdom. Backstory: I originally opened the primary to replace a shot stator, and had all the usual misadventures, learning a ton in the process from here and buellridersonline. I'm doing the "while-I'm-in-there" stuff too: chamfered wire plate, new chain tensioner shoe, shifter pawl adjustment, shifter drum pin check. But after I did the pawl adjustment, I got stuck in one gear. Messed around with the shifter for a while (spinning the back wheel every time) and sporadically would get a successful shift or three, but then get stuck in the new gear, or actually between gears. I loosened the shifter pawl again in case I had messed up the adjustment and it was hitting stops, but that didn't change anything. I took off the detent plate and checked the pins--one was too far out, and I fixed that, but still no improvement in shifting. It feels like the drum is running up against a very hard stop--not just being difficult. As I was messing around with this, I remembered something that happened on my last few rides before I opened the primary: I had trouble shifting into 1st, and stomped so hard that the shift lever rotated on the compression collar. I eventually was able to get it into gear, reset and tightened the lever, and blamed the usual Thumper shifting issues. But it happened a couple more times, even with the lever as tight as I could get it. So, main question: --Is there anything else I can try with just the primary off, or do I <gulp> take the whole bike apart to get to the drum and forks? And ancillary questions: --Is the shifter shaft supposed to have a lot of play? I can move the end of it about an inch even with the pawl nuts tightened. I know the primary cover will provide another support point, but it still seems like a lot. --For the pawl adjustment, I couldn't find a #32, so I used a 7/64 bit and gave it a smidge extra room, but not enough to fit a 1/8 bit in there. Is that too cowboy? --Discovered the B-101 bulletin here, and I would love to increase my friction zone, but the dealership here didn't have the kit. Where can I get it? | ||
| Ezblast |
You can find that bit in any hardware store, yes the shaft has a lot of play. Try doing hte shift pawl, make sure your in the right gear when you do it. EZ | ||
| Uunter |
I was going to try doing the shift pawl again, but I can't get it back in 3rd! It's stuck in 5th, and the drum won't turn more than about halfway to 4th. It feels like it's hitting a hard stop, and I worry if I put too much force into it I'll break something. | ||
| Bumblebee |
I read all this in interest, was assured that a bike that wouldn't shift above 2nd gear was an easy fix. So, I bought a ex riders edge blast, as a fun winter project more than anything else. It wasn't. If the shift lever is forced up and the gear shift lever doesn't slip as it's supposed to the shift drum, in my case, become damaged. The gear selector detent is very robust, and after pulling the primary I concluded THIS ISN'T IT! In the beginning: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/733504.html?1421096417 |
