| Author | Message | ||
     The4ork |
not even sure what to call this seal... its basically leaking from the shaft the pulley connects to (front pulley) its leaking oil on my shock after i ride, and after riding im noticing heavy oil build up on the right side of my rear tire and wheel. also my drive belt is saturated in oil frustrating. just got the bike back on the road. So, How easy is it to fix? and how many special tools am i going to need?  | ||
| Mhlunsford |
so oil on the back tire is pressure from the crank seal escaping. I had the same on my M2. common. to replace the crank seal you remove the primary cover, and the magneto (disk with magnets) has the primary gear with change attached. use a small very small hook to pull out the old seal. I pushed in the new seal slowly and evenly - no special tools other than the blade to loosen the nuts on the clutch and mag. I would also recommend upgrading to a 8 bolt mag while there(can get from a sportster), my 4 bolt mag broke all the bolts - common for the buells. I found the seals hard to get so I bought 2, I screwed up the first one. They have spring around them to help seal. took me 2 hrs - but I have taken the primary apart several times | ||
| Woodnbow |
Think he's talking transmission output shaft seal here... I could be wrong. If not, it's not a huge problem, pulling the front pulley nut can be a bear if you don't have an impact wrench. I used a piece of pvc pipe as a seal driver to replace the seal. Worked like a charm. | ||
| Kalali |
Also remember that big nut is reverse threaded. How does the bearing look? Is it walking out? Others can correct me but I think the transmission may need to come out to fix the fifth gear bearing/seal the right way. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Kalali, you are correct. Tranny needs to come out for removal/install of the final drive bearing. My opinion, if you've got the clutch and tranny out, you may as well replace all the bearings, replace the detent plate and check shift forks too. | ||
| Screamer |
Replacing the bearing requires trans removal. Seal (trans output) replacement does not requires trans removal. | ||
| Hootowl |
Doubt it's the crank seal. The tranny is vented. If you don't have engine oil/tranny fluid escaping from the breather, the crank seal is probably fine. If your oil is coming from the sprocket seal, or the place where the sprocket seal is supposed to be, replace the seal. It's a metal disk. If the seal is gone, carefully inspect the outer roller bearings. They can walk out if the seal is missing. | ||
| Kalali |
Does anyone know the part number for that seal? The only OIL SEAL I see in the catalog is 12067A but it appears to be on the inside behind the sprocket and it looks like a large washer not a metal disk. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Kalali: HD Part # 12067A is now 12067B. You are correct, it is behind the front pulley. You are correct, it doesn't look like a metal disk...until you receive the part from Al. Between the ID and OD is a metal disk that gives this part strength. Also helps to keep the bearings from falling out! Once you pull the two screws (10 ft lbs MAX) then the retainer plate, then the nut, you can now remove the front pulley and have a look see. You will probably need an impact wrench to get it off (THE NUT). OFF is clockwise, ON is counter-clockwise! Replace the NUT, RETAINER PLATE, TWO SCREWS...they are just a couple of bucks and have the locktite on them already. Follow the FSM to the letter! If this seal is intact, then don't mess with it...leave it. | ||
| Kalali |
Great info, thanks. I asked for that seal about a year ago from my local HD dealer using 12067A and they gave me the large washer looking hard rubbery part. I think I still have it somewhere in the garage. I've been missing that "disk" seal as long as I've owned my bike and inspect that area frequently to make sure the bearing is not taking a stroll. But no oil leak whatsoever, so far. I'll get her done right this time... | ||
| The4ork |
OP HERE: Yall are confusing me. The oil is dripping from the drive pulley. the small one in the front that drives the belt/rear pulley. it was hard to figure out where it was coming from, but after the bike is fully warmed up and i park it, its definately dripping from that front sprocket/pulley. its only a few drips when the bike sits, but it looks to be pouring out when running, based on how saturated the right side of the rear wheel/tire and belt are. | ||
| Stev0 |
That's the seal Two Seasons and Kalali are talking about 4ork... and Two seasons is spot on with how to fix it. | ||
| The4ork |
How big is the nut? and is it a deep socket? I have never had a front drive pulley off before, nor seen one off before so its uncharted territory for me. and i dont have to remove the trans right? this is something i can do in a few hours? | ||
| Stev0 |
If you're only doing the seal then you don't need to take the trans out.. .. The nut is large but shallow. Google sportster pulley nut as it's the same as a Buell. I'm sure someone will have posted a video of one being changed... When you take the pulley cover off have a good look in there as the breather from the cam chest comes from that area and if that hose has come off or been damaged then the output shaft seal may not be the culprit. You might have to degrease, ride it and inspect to be sure where it's coming from. | ||
| The4ork |
thats great advice, thanks for that. Do you think i could have expelled some oil simply from overfilling? Because i topped my oil tank off before going on a mountain run in the heat. was worried about heat so i made sure i had the max amount of oil in there... | ||
| Stev0 |
Yup, that's very possible. Degrease, wash and go for a ride.. I changed the clutch hub on of my S3's the other day... boxed it back up, gave it a good run and noticed oil underneath it on the filler plug... swore a few times as I've never had an issue with a leaking primary gasket before... cleaned it so I could see how bad it was, not bad so I cleaned it again and then realised it looked strange.. So I looked on the top of the cases and could see the rear base gasket leaking... degreased that area and no more primary leak... it was coming out of the rear base gasket and leaking around the back of the case and dripping off under the primary near the drain plug.. Sometimes it's not what you first think it is.. LOL . | ||
| Kalali |
The nut is 1 7/8" and Sears has it for about $28. It weighed a good couple of lbs. Remember it's reverse threaded. | ||
| Stev0 |
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Harley-Sportster-Pulley -Nut-Socket-Tool-Locknut-Mainshaft-Sprocket-Wrench -91-13-/331122499784?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessor ies&hash=item4d187060c8 | ||
| Jolly |
when I had to buy the 1 7/8 socket my local Sears did not have it, thought there was a tractor supply a few miles away that had it hanging on the wall. The bigger size sockets like this are normally 3/4 drive, so I had to buy an adapter for 3/4 inch male to 1/2 inch female since my other drivers and my torque wrench for that torque value are 1/2 inch drives. Tractor supply did not have the adaptor but Sears did, so back to Sears...Sometimes for bigger stuff I check the local tractor supply first now. A quick check of Amazon and you can buy both and have it shipped to your house in 2 days if you are a prime member, just in case you cant find it locally. As for leaks that are not what they first appear.... I had what I was absolutely convinced was a rear cylinder base gasket leak, clean degrease ride inspect, and each time it was leaking out of the rear cylinder base gasket. cleaned it up for one last inspection, mostly because I was hoping against hope that I would find it was something else.. and found that it was a rear exhaust push rod tube base that was leaking. the oil was following the mating surface of the cylinder to crank case perfectly and then finally dripping out the left side of the engine.... | ||
| Arizona_buell |
Yep pushrod seals got me too . I had oil on my shock and swore it was the drive seal but after removing the sprocket and seal it was fine . Looking further I found the pushrod tube seal leaking.. | ||
| S1owner |
Regular sockets may work but it would not for me as they do not fit tight and have rounded edges. Not to mention it took a breaker bar and a 5 ft extension to bust it loose Tools well worth the money  Strongly advise against impacts it can cause damage | ||
| Jolly |
do you have the part number/source for the sprocket holder? that's one I need to add to my tool box. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Got my 1 7/8" socket and puller/installer from these folks... http://www.amazon.com/Harley-Davidson-Mainshaft-Sp rocket-Earlier/dp/B005CW9P2K/ref=sr_1_32?s=automot ive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407077117&sr=1-32&keywords=heartl and+products 1/2" drive socket!!!!! and this, just in case... http://www.amazon.com/Harley-Transmission-Mainshaf t-Bearing-Installation/dp/B008R15IT2/ref=sr_1_29?s =automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1407077178&sr=1-29&keyword s=heartland+products Excellent quality parts! The funny thing was that Hal's said they did not sell this tool  I've ordered wheel bearing puller/installer tools from them in the past (Jim's Tools)  Edit: forgot to mention that I already had the American Sport Bike crank/clutch primary locking bar... http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/16075 American Sport Bike sells products that work well  (Message edited by two_seasons on August 03, 2014) |
