Author |
Message |
Newfie_buell
| Posted on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 02:47 pm: |
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Last year I T-Stormed my 98 S1 and now I am considering camshafts. Without getting real real technical (MikeJ that means you-I remember you answer to my question on the primary chain), what kind of camshaft should I get to give me more power. What I have so far is S&S Style Breather with a K&N filter, T-Stormed Engine, Race Ignition & Vance & Hines Canister! Any help or suggestions are much appreciated. Bill |
Aaron
| Posted on Monday, March 01, 2004 - 05:21 pm: |
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If your heads are stock, I'd stay with the stock S1 cams. They're well matched to stock t-storms, and you're limited in your ability to get more cam in there anyway due to the weak stock springs as well as some clearance issues you quickly run into. If you're willing to rework the heads, then I'd say talk with whoever is preparing them. A good head porter will match the cam timing to the bore, stroke, target rpm, and port cross sectional area to give an optimal result. |
Socoken
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 - 09:53 pm: |
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I have a 2001 M2 with a thunderslide carb kit, K&N in stock airbox, compufire ignition, and a V&H pipe. whats the biggest set of cams i can stick in without headwork? are SE 536's a drop in or do they require adjustable pushrods? really, im just shooting for top end. has anyone tried 536's in a thunderstorm setup without headwork? any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks Ken |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 - 10:48 pm: |
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I'd recommend Andrews N8 grind. Strictly a bolt-in with no headwork involved. Go to the Andrews website for grind info or see the previous discussions in the KV on this subject! |
Socoken
| Posted on Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 02:43 pm: |
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Thanks Kirk, i looked into the N8, and read all the posts about the andrews N8, and the N6. the short specs sheet at the andrews site lists the N6 and the N8 with the same specs, but puts the N6 rev range up to 6800 instead of 6500 for the N8. What i really want is a strong pull to the top end, revving out my M2 with stock cams seems to be an exercise in futility, like im just revving it out to hear more noise rather than for more power. maybe the N6's are what i want. thanks again Ken |
Wman
| Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2004 - 06:34 pm: |
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Socoken, I installed a set of 536's in my 01 M-2. I run Jims hydro solids, adj. push rods, S&S roller rokes, and ported heads with matched springs. The end result is 93.4hp @ 6800 rpm and 80.1 lb @ 3500 rpm. The torque curve is basically flat dropping down to 74ft @ 6500. I really like the 536's but don't think I would use the with stock valve train, but thats just my opion. |
Socoken
| Posted on Sunday, March 21, 2004 - 08:08 pm: |
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Thanks Wayne, and Kirk. budget conflicts prohibit spending money on the valvetrain, so i ordered the N8's today, should have them put in by the weekend, so ill let you know how they feel. Kirk, if you want a set of N8's, im getting a deal on them, lemme know if you want a hookup, i might be able to help. thanks, Ken |
Socoken
| Posted on Friday, April 02, 2004 - 10:07 pm: |
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alright, got the N8s in yesterday. good thing too, the stockers were starting to wear badly, at 10,000 miles, kinda worries me. the andrews cams were pretty good in quality, only took a little stoning and lapping to get them to spin nice and loose. i did, however, spend a lot of time trying to get the pinion gear and no 2 cam to get along better. i bolted the cover on, with just the number two in place, then spun the motor a click at a time, i had a long bolt threaded into the end of the number two and just pulled and pushed to insure that there was play, that things werent too tight. it seemed that the pinion gear (factory) had a serious out of round problem cause it got real tight on two spots on the cam, 180 degrees apart. i lapped and stoned the pinion gear and cam for the better part of a day, and got things to be a little looser. at first, in those two places, the cam was unmovable, after a while it was just really hard to move. in the interest of time, i called it good enough and bolted it together and im hoping that this doesnt cause problems or shorten longevity of the cams. in any case, the cams rock. my bike was a little rich on the bottom before, so with the bigger cams it just loads up at low rpm. at high rpm though, man, what a rocket. it doesnt even feel like the front wheel is touching the ground until im in third gear. im gonna get a dyno tune to see where im at and lean things out a bit, but goddamn, was it worth it. the bike is a whole different animal now. if you have an M2 with stock cams, im telling you, this is what you need to do. i mean, holy crap what a difference. i even pulled a second gear wheelie without the clutch. its incredible. thanks a ton Kirk for telling me about the N8's. im in love with my bike all over again. |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2004 - 01:13 am: |
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Glad to hear it. Now if I can just get a set for me........ |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2004 - 01:30 am: |
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Not to want to cause paranoia or anything, but there is a model year issue with cams and pinion gear. There was a change a tooth pitch in the late 1990s. I wouldn't think that cams from one would fit onto the pinion gear of the other at all, but your talk of tight and loose, 180 degrees apart seems strange to me. But I don't know squat. |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2004 - 01:32 am: |
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Seriously now, tell me about your hookup! Inquiring minds want to know! |
Socoken
| Posted on Saturday, April 03, 2004 - 12:21 pm: |
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Eric, its not the pitch change, these are the right cams. the cam drive gears on the andrews cams are the older style thicker teeth, seems stronger to me, but the pinion has the newer style finer teeth, its a big difference. if its anything, the pinion gear is a little out of round. if the pinion gear had a high spot, it would show up twice on opposite sides of the cam gear because they are a 2:1 ratio, i think. what worries me is that the factory cams were wearing out after 10k miles, and if that pinion gear is the cause, it will likely eat my new cams faster as well. Kirk, my hookup mighta came and went, i posted when i was ordering, so if you wanted a set, ild have two ordered, but i dont know anymore. it wasnt that great of a deal, i just got them at cost. like 220 instead of 280. if you are really serious, ping me off line and ill ask. Ken |
Cwatso
| Posted on Tuesday, March 15, 2005 - 02:43 pm: |
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i've got a '00 x1, looking to replace the cams. any advice on which to use and reasons for it would be greatly appreciated. thanks cole |
Captainkirk
| Posted on Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 12:08 am: |
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Andrews N8 was my choice, & I'm happy with it. This is a hotter (longer duration, earlier timing) version of the N4 (Lightning) grind (which is what you already have in your X1). See the specifics on the Andrews website (www.andrewsproducts.com) It is strictly BOLT IN meaning it uses the stock lifters and valve train components and requires no other engine mods and is easily done by the home mechanic. It WILL move the powerband up the scale slightly (more on the M2), but pulls like a raped ape from about 4000 and up. I can't say how much difference it makes by itself, as I did all my other mods at the same time,(race kit and HSR) but the difference is PHENOMENAL. It sounds real nasty at idle, too. I will say it's not the same motorcycle. Others seem to have good luck with the Screamin' Eagle cams but I can't comment as I have no experience with them. Best O'Luck!
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Bob_thompson
| Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2005 - 01:38 am: |
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Kirk, did you check clearance as some here and Andrews suggest or just take a chance. If you did check, how did you go about it. Thanks much. I also posted this question in another thread. |
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