| Author | Message | ||
     Tempest766 |
checked my intermittent and sporatic error code and it says battery voltage either high or low. I then tested voltage across the terminals with the switch in the off position and the battery puts out 13.0V. With the engine running the voltage across the terminals is 14.25V. Any thoughts on why the check engine light is coming on and the battery voltage warning is occurring? The error is being generated every time I turn the bike on now. Start the bike and within 90 seconds the check engine light comes on and the battery code is the only one in the ECU memory. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Need to do a load test on the battery. It can read a nice voltage but still be too weak to perform correctly. Another thing you might want to do is to perform a stator check and a voltage regulator diode check. Easily done with a multimeter and by doing as shown in these videos. Scroll down to the stock regulator check video and then also watch the stator check video. http://www.roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20V ideos.htm | ||
| Tempest766 |
Thanks! Will do a regulator diode check and stator resistance check with a digital meter. Assuming that the regulator and stator connectors are exposed and easy to get to once the air scoop has been removed? One point to note is that on an initial cold start the voltage across the battery is low (under 12.0V) until the bike gets warmed up and then the check-engine light goes out after several minutes, at which point the battery voltage climbs up to 14.25-14.30V after running for a while and while the engine is idling. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
It sounds like the batt might be a little weak IE...on the way out. Initial starting is wearing it down and it takes some time for the charging system to get it back to 100% ???? Just guessing here. I think I would get the battery load tested ASAP | ||
| Griffmeister |
The high/low code, is it 16? I forget but anyhow it's supposed to set if voltage goes below 6 VDC or above 20 VDC. That is quite a range and certainly not what you're seeing, at least not on a quick inspection. Since the ECM is what's setting the code then the problem could be further up the harness rather than at the battery/charging system, but don't rule out anything until you get more serious with the diagnosis. It's funny, my bike was doing the same thing along with a TPS high/low voltage code right before I started tearing the engine down. I'd be interested in knowing what you find. | ||
| Tempest766 |
6V to 20V? That is a HUGE range. Are you sure that those are the setpoints for the high/low voltage warning? Yes, code 16 is what was generated. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Tempest, The connectors for the regulator and the stator are the 77 (two pin)connector and the 46 (four pin) connector respectively. The 46 connector only utilizes 3 pins of the 4 pin 46 connector since there are 3 wires connecting your 3 phase stator to your Regulator/Rectifier. See your service manual. These two connectors are located behind the plastic cover that hides the front belt drive sprocket. You'll have to open those connectors and they are pretty stiff to open if they've remained untouched. No big deal though. You do not have to remove the right side air scoop for this at all since that is not near these connectors. | ||
| Uly_man |
"One point to note is that on an initial cold start the voltage across the battery is low (under 12.0V)". The battery is probably knackered. It is taking a charge but not holding it. And the charge should be about 14.7v with a good meter. A "load test" IE Amps is NOT the correct way to test an AGM battery. Take the battery to a proper battery shop and ask them to test it. They will use the proper diagnostic tool to test it. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Electra, I believe Tempest has an 08 which would be a two wire stator. Both wires and 46/77 connectors are behind the left air scoop. Yes, according to the manual, the set points are 6 VDC and 20 VDC. This is probably done to prevent a lot of nonsense codes from showing up. Normal charging voltage is supposed to be between 14 and 15 VDC at 3600 rpm. If you've done a topic search and read other posts you'll see a lot of people saying how the stock VR is not very consistent even when it's working right. They talk about low voltage with a lot of accessories on and high voltage at other times so a wide range is probably a good thing. Light bulbs and electronics can handle slight increases in voltage, you have to figure that a light blowing spike is way over the 20 volt mark. | ||
| Tempest766 |
Based on other posts related to charging, regulator, and stator, I'm wondering now if the charging systems can be added to the "things that are buggy" list like the rear wheel bearings...at least for the 08 model. Seems like the majority of other posts are also dealing with the 08 bikes. | ||
| Froggy |
Voltage regulator and stator is as equally problematic on all years of XB, and equally as problematic on other bikes. They last just as long on our bikes as do anyone elses. I've replaced the VR on every single XB I've owned, and every Suzuki too. My 1125s are on the original VRs, but they don't have as many miles as my XBs had come replacement time. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Voltage regulator and stator is as equally problematic on all years of XBs and equally as problematic on other bikes". It is just a crap system and very old fashioned but to use an alternator would be difficult and cost more. VRs are always an issue because they need good cooling. It is a good idea to increase the heat sink size by mounting it on a bigger alloy plate. Use heat sink paste as well. On the older bikes hard wire your 77 connector out. None of this will cost much more than $10 to do and will help the system a lot. The Stator is a moving part in a bath of oil to keep it cool. The nature of this is that it WILL break down sooner or later. If you need to replace it do not use the HD one. You can buy a better "heavy duty" aftermarket version which is a lot better built. |
