| Author | Message | ||
     Matteson |
My bike has 30,000 rides and drives fine. Early 08 r. Routine oil change and decided to pull the screen cap and found these two slivers and some shavings. Also some clear/ amber things. No plastic. Where should I start in looking for culprit? It's the middle of the season and don't really want to tear her all the way down. I am waiting an exhaust from Dean so I can't ride now anyway. Can someone guide me in the right direction. Thanks. The image is of the first two. https://imageshack.com/i/ezHqQHrejhttps://imageshack.com/i/f0dIcjqCj (Message edited by MAtteson on July 27, 2014) | ||
| Brokengq |
I had some similar shavings/slivers when my sprag started going out. Not sure about the amber colored chips. | ||
| Matteson |
So what am I looking for if I pull the left side cover off? | ||
| Shawns |
Check your rotor nut, the amber pieces may be from the stator epoxy coating. | ||
| Rodrob |
I'd clean it, change the oil and ride it. | ||
| Matteson |
Rob, that was my first thought. Those are two decent sized pieces in the tray. That's why I pulled them out. The shavings didn't worry me too much. I guess I will continue to ride and on the next oil service investigate the screen again. Unless someone else has some other advice I'm about to order the crank lock tool and start making a mess. | ||
| Brokengq |
More than likely whatever is going on (if anything. A local friend who is trained in 1125's said that occasion debris is possible and not a cause for concern.) is just beginning. Sometimes just changing the oil and waiting for it to get worse is the only way to precisely determine the problem. Like I said, I had similar shavings when my sprag started going out. You will have starting problems soon if that is the case. If the rotor nut is backing off then you will be having a loud knocking sound coming soon. If stator goes out, the obvious results. The key is to know when the problem has progressed and when to get off the bike and hook up the trailer. If it was my bike, and I wasn't showing any other problems, I would change the oil and ride, but be prepared for something to fail shortly. Of course you could pull it all apart and attempt to find the source, but it is very possible you will pull a LOT apart before you find the root. Metal shavings (assuming nonferrous as you did not mention anything stuck to the drain plug) could come from many different places under many different covers. | ||
| Matteson |
there were shavings on the drain plug too. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
don't mean to upset the apple cart...I have an early '08 it has less than 6000 miles on it and I have a bad balancer gear/rear timing chain sprocket...mine looks just like the one in the post below... 1) engine started running warmer for no apparent reason (I run straight water with water wetter) 2) drain plug was full of shavings 3) oil screen was populated (about1-2% of the total area) with metal slivers ...I thought the rotor nut let loose, but it was tight...had to dig in further behind the rotor (I removed the rotor to "see" the problem)...replacement parts are about $500. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/636663.html | ||
| Shawns |
This is what I found when I pulled my cover off Doesn't hurt to check.   | ||
| Matteson |
So what are the long slivers dude? I guess I will need to buy the crank lock tool if the nut does happen to be loose. | ||
| Shawns |
The epoxy used to hold the inner sleeve in. and probably some of the inner sleeve as well. | ||
| Rodrob |
The silver/grey is definitely rotor epoxy and is no big deal. It also looks like you also have timing chain tensioner debris (the little black pieces). At 30,000 rides (mi?) I would be looking at replacing the guides and tensioners very soon. You should do the timing chains at the same time. | ||
| Matteson |
30000 miles. I was saying it rides fine. I guess I will ride this season out and do the chains and guides this winter. There wasn't any black stuff that I could find in my screen. But thanks rob for the heads up about the chains. | ||
| Rodrob |
Oh. My mistake. I had you confused with Shawns pics. | ||
| Matteson |
still think I should do the chains and guides rob? | ||
| Shawns |
Going to try and do a valve service this winter, so I guess chain guides as well  | ||
| Rodrob |
Matteson - I would. Shawns - Normally it would depend on mileage, but those little black chunks in your screen pan looks like tensioner and guide debris, so you might want to at least inspect them. On a stock motor, its not so critical since there is some leeway on the valve clearance vs timing, but slop in the valve train is never good. There is no published service interval on the timing chains, but they can get loose or tight. I personally think 30K is a good replacement or at least inspection marker. | ||
| Oldog |
Rob what would you do as far as the inspection of the chains and guides? presuming that the motor is rolled down. and valve covers are off, do the sides need to be torn down to remove the items for inspection, is there an oil pressure driven tension assist? | ||
| Rodrob |
do the sides need to be torn down to remove the items for inspection, Yes. You can get an idea of wear without removing the side covers by pulling out the guides opposite the tensioner with the valve covers off and the tensioner piston removed. If there is significant wear there, then the rest of the guides are most likely worse. is there an oil pressure driven tension assist? Yes, and mechanical. The tensioner piston pushes on and flexes the plastic guide to provide chain tension. |
