| Author | Message | ||
     Vsingle |
I bought a 2001 Buell Blast 5-31-14 with 5,700 miles. Pro-series intake and exhaust were added by previous owner. Runs awesome. 51 mpg if speed kept below 75mph. 7-25-14, with 10,800 miles, I rode to work in the pouring rain. 30 miles. All good. Going home that evening, bike is backfiring like crazy when rolling off the throttle. A metal rattle sound from the muffler area. and sometimes a hissing noise up front. You guessed it: cracked header pipe. Made a roadside repair with clamps and tape and limped home. The crack propagated itself all the way around, and on the lower side, longitudinal crack extends about 3" down the pipe. I am so bummed. I really liked the look and sound of that muffler. I enjoyed the weirdness of two turnouts for a single cylinder. I will likely repair it, but this could take a while (the port side muffler baffle has also gone maraca) In the mean time, I'm going to get a new pipe / muffler combo. Assuming the re-jetting was done by PO, what pipe / muffler set-up would you recommend to avoid having to re-jet again? I loved the sound from the those rusty, now broken, sewer pipes. I would like to get a set-up with a similar sound. Any suggestions or feedback would be appreciated. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The Jardine had a fairly low exhaust note and the V&H a little higher. (From what I remember). Nothing is like the low tone of the ProSeries. Someone here did make a 1 into 2 adapter* and you could run 2 Harley shorties off it, probably getting close to the PS sound but with more power and a higher rev limit! *they were going to make me one, but it never ce to pass and I don't remember who it was (butan exhaust search should turn it up). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Re jet is basically all the same (or close enough) for all the exhausts. Individual tuning is what gets it spot on. | ||
| Vsingle |
Thank you. What is your impression of the D&D pipe/muffler? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Good, but definitely a higher pitch and uses the small diameter headpipe. The jardine or V&H head pipes are the larger diameter and they way to go if you're planning on spending $$$ for more power! this is all my opinion according to my ears! | ||
| Ezblast |
The D&D header is very similar to the pro-series. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! The D&D is loud! I do like it though, as long as you aren't going to spend money on internal engine mods beyond the B50 (ProSeries) cams and 6500rpm stock rev limit. If the D&D came with the large headpiece, then it would be a great choice, regardless. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - that was the thought I always had - the steps are practically perfect for the motor, lots of torque in bottom and mid range, and besides touching up the paint job, it is practically maintenance free. I love their can with the Jardine header - the perfect bolt on power play. Jardine header - 99.00, D&D can - 175.00 - sound and fun factor - priceless - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
YOU are who I borrowed it from!  EZ is the Blast carb and exhaust king! He's spent more time on both than anyone I know or would! | ||
| Vsingle |
I ordered the complete Jardine can and header. Comment on header diameter: bigger isn't always better. Bigger diameter means lower velocity, which can reduce the vacuum effect of the exhaust pulses for cylinder scavanging. But, since its all a compromise anyway, the best you can hope for is a pipe/muffler which produces power delivery that matches your riding style. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
True. That's why I point out if you're going to do exhaust mods beyond the B50 cams and 6500 rpm rev limit, you'll need the larger headpipe. The small head pipe is too restrictive for more 'radical' modifications, but better matched for basic mods. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Given the relatively low HP of the Blast, there won't be much of a real world difference between all the marketed exhausts. But, make your own and do it wrong and the power loss is amazing!!!! | ||
| Vicenzajay |
fwiw I love my D&D. Just put it on a few months ago. Right now I'm without my motorcycles as we're in the middle of a cross country move, but the D&D matches the stock engine with a simple stage 1 air flow upgrade (Thumpe's intake kit). Again, it's just my .02, but I think it's a great fit for a stocker. | ||
| Ezblast |
You'd have to go with a Jardine header with either the D&D can or a Supertrapp with 18 discs, or custom to do better, and those would be saved for a hi comp piston, and a stage two head and a hotter cam, and ignition to really show a big difference - for most that big difference, which usually has a much higher pricetag than just exhaust, intake, and jetting - will not be bothered with. Those of us who do choose to do so are a special bread - those who enjoy a performance single engine, and we do not usually stop there,but adress other issues as well - such as suspension, weight, etc. - the true Darksiders - lol EZ | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Jay, I haven't seen you on the other forum. The guy with the gas cap fix is back in the USA and has several requests, so if you want one of his kits you best order it soon. Kenny G | ||
| Vsingle |
Okay, embarrassing question time: which side is the Jardine turnout supposed to point? Port, or starboard? (Left or right for non-navy types) The way mine lined up, right side seems to be best, but seems like its going to barbie the belt. To the left seems to spray more of the tire. I've got the header pipe to the left side of the engine exhaust mounting tab, with stock rubber mounts. Hanger bolt for the can is on the left side. Left side turnout would put the stickers upside down, so I'm going with turn out to starboard. Am I right? | ||
| Ezblast |
Left - barbqueing belt bad, tire is missed - but other air protecting it - brought by tire. EZ | ||
| Vsingle |
It's got a nice sound. At low throttle, really low rumble. At 70, louder than the pro-series, but still nice to my ears. I noticed the turnout has a small hole in the side; perfect for mounting a little extra turn-down piece. The stickers have got to go....unnecessary weight. Thanks for all the opinions and advice. | ||
| Vsingle |
After a 30+ mile sprint to work at about 65 degree temp and 60-75 mph, it seems like the belt and sprocket are just a tad warmer than with the previous pipe. | ||
| Vsingle |
Help, please. After riding with the new pipe for about 75 miles, at intermittent speeds up to 75 mph, I checked fuel consumption and was hanging right around 50mpg; virtually identical to old pipe (running BP 93). So, I decide it's all clear to make a longer and faster freeway run, about 45 miles, non-stop at 80mph. I got up to speed nice and easy. Ran great the whole way. Then slowly rolled off the throttle and checked down speed over the last couple miles so the motor had a chance to cool down gradually. When I did finally clutch in, the motor almost stopped running. I had to give it some throttle to keep her turning. Parked for three hours, then went to restart. Will not fire. Finally get it to start with pumps of throttle. Went about 3 miles down the rode, and the intake side of das boot completely falls off. This boot is 2 weeks old, about a thousand miles of use. The intake manifold was really hot. Got the boot back on, and it popped off again when motor fired up. Flipped the boot over, reclamped, and it stayed on with motor running. Then, in the darkness, with the motor idling for about 3 minutes, I noticed the header pipe started to glow a very dull read. Is that normal? Something doesn't seem above average in lake wobegone. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - but what is your jetting? EZ | ||
| Vsingle |
Excellent question. I don't know. I have been studying all of the available information on jetting in order to overcome my fear of carburetors. I think I'm ready to dive in and find out. Last night I finally had time to work on the bike, and what I found was a 3/4" long radial crack (complete perforation to the inside diameter) in the boot in the middle of the channel that was originally mounted on the manifold side. There were also some other cracks which are not all the way through. Since that boot was brand new when recently installed, I neglected to check it for cracks during my roadside repair efforts, thinking that it could not possibly have failed after such a short service interval. While installing a new OEM replacement boot last night, it became clear that the reason for the premature failure was likely improper installation. The failed boot was "on" the manifold, but I don't think the lip was seated in the groove properly. Also, I probably over-tightened the hose clamps. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
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| Gearheaderiko |
Please don't "dive into the carb" and don't "give it a good cleaning", it does not need it. Do what's necessary. Just the jetting. Resist the urge to pull it all apart. It rarely ends well. | ||
| Vsingle |
The original intent of my post was to get suggestions for an aftermarket pipe that would A) not require fiddling with the carb, and B) Sound similar to the pro-series exhaust. In my particular case, "diving into the carb" means crossing myself and then removing the float bowl and deciphering what jets are in there. I would prefer to ostrich the whole carburetor issue, but the boot malfunction raised doubt about if what is in there is correct for the current set-up, or not. As for "giving it a good cleaning", raindrops at 60mph are likely the only "cleaning" any parts of my bike will ever get B-) Interestingly, the mixture screw has been drilled out, but the stock JIS screws are still onboard. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
JIS screws? Most pipes will run with stock jetting and most re- jetting is very similar, but it's better to up the jetting as it can be dangerously lean left stock. Since the only way (unless you've be reliably told) to find out the jetting is to carefully drop the float bowl, that's what you'll have to do. A small mirror and flashlight will usually work. Glowing red has been stated by a reliable member of this group as "normal" for a new pipe, but I've never seen it. It can also be the product of running super lean, which you'd be doing with a bad boot. Since the replacement parts are getting potentially older, it's definitely possible to get a boot that splits on the first backfire. I get nervous when anybody mentions carb work. Seen way too many problems caused by unnecessary work. | ||
| Vsingle |
JIS = Japanese Industrial Standard. Looks like Philips, but slightly different geometry. I appreciate that you advised caution related to carb work. Question: is it possible to determine what jets are installed without removing them from the carb body? 2nd Question: you mention using a mirror. Are you saying to check the jets with the carb still on the bike? Won't that subject the float to a full unsupported dangle? | ||
| Kenny_gilgore |
Erick, JIS screws? JIS means Japanese Industrial Standard and although they look like Phillips Head Screws the are not and that is why you see screw heads stripped so often on Japanese Carburetors and Jap bikes in general. http://www.mcmaster.com/?orderview=new#jis-(japanese-industrial-standard)-screwdriver-sets/=t 4fepf I am thinking that you only need the #0, #1, & #2 to fit what you will find on a Japanese motorcycle carburetor. The #3 might be needed on other parts of older Japanese motorcycles I have had mine since the 1970's and don't remember exactly what I purchased. JIS Screws are also commonly used on Japanese Electronics and the smaller size screwdrivers are lifesavers when trying to take apart Smart Phones and small electronics. Kenny G | ||
| Ezblast |
45/175 would be the sugested jetting. Two #4 washers on the needle. EZ | ||
| Vsingle |
I have read about the washers "under" the needle, but I don't have a clear understanding of exactly where they go. Is that accomplished from the bowl side, or the top side? I have searched for a photo or sketch; no luck yet. |
