| Author | Message | ||
     Rayycc1 |
Yesterday....a friend of mine that bought a Ulysses two weeks after seeing mine asked me to reset his tps.....and be called me a hour later happier than I'd ever heard him....said his bike never ran so good....so....I figured it'd reset mine just for shits and giggles.......mine unfortunately didn't go so well....when I start my bike now........it barely idles.....and backfires thru the throttle body if I try to give it gas. I've tried the reset procedure three times now...all with the same result. It ran fine before the reset.any idea's? Thanks in advance...Ray | ||
| Teeps |
I've experienced this a couple of times, after tps reset. Usually snapping the throttle a few times to make sure the butterfly is fully closed. Then resetting the tps restores normal operation. The butterfly MUST be fully closed when resetting the tps. I have always done tps reset with engine at operating temperature, too. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Did you turn the idle screw all the way out before you did the TPS reset? (Been there, done that wrong) | ||
| Rayycc1 |
I did the whole procedure correctly...three times....very puzzling. | ||
| Uly_man |
Just as a matter of interest how was it done? | ||
| Ratbuell |
And was the bike hot when you did it? | ||
| Rayycc1 |
The bike was hot...I removed the site box cover...shined a light on the throttle assembly so I could verify the idle screw was backed completely off....then I reset the tps. I turned the idle back up to 6.0 where my bike usually idles....then tried to start....bike would only idle at around 750rpms...and then only for a few seconds before dying.and yes....I did snap the throttle open and shut to be sure throttle plate was closed before resetting. This was all done using electronic technician....and was all done several times....right after a very successful reset on my buddies Ulysses only minutes before.I'm truly stumped | ||
| Teeps |
Maybe info in this thread will help. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/710089.html?1366129387 | ||
| Rayycc1 |
Thanks Teeps....I have been searching for the thread where Tootal does the " total reset" but i havent been able to find it...I would like to remove the tps and clean everything and try again...i just haven't been able to find the instructions | ||
| Froggy |
What ECM do you have, and what program did you use to reset? | ||
| Rayycc1 |
stock....and I am using digital technician. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
Well....my throttle body is cruddy. I guess I'm going to try to clean it up a little....I'm also going to pull the tps sensor and clean that all up....never done this and can't find any good instructions....any words if wisdom for putting it back together? The service manual is lacking on this issue at best. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
my throttle body....nasty looking.would re routing the breather hoses cure this? And if it would....do you have to use a catch can? Or can you must route it under the bike? | ||
| Rayycc1 |
well...i took the TPS off and cleaned everything back up and put it all together....and still i am getting the same result.....it hardly idles....coughs...backfires....I have a new set of plug wires i am putting on next and i'm going to get some new plugs as the old ones are looking Black and sooty.....Something has to give and make her run right again. | ||
| Teeps |
Rayycc1 Posted on Saturday, July 26, 2014 - my throttle body....nasty looking. would re routing the breather hoses cure this? Yes, about 90% or better. And if it would....do you have to use a catch can? No, though many do. For the cool factor? Or can you must route it under the bike? That's what I did.  | ||
| Etennuly |
Did you manually clean the edges of the throttle plate? If you run your finger around that edge it should feel smooth, if it feels bumpy or gritty it will not close 100%. That will throw off a TPS reset to make things worse than they were. | ||
| Tootal |
That procedure you're looking for is on the ADV forum. I was there before learning about BadWeb. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273568&highlight=sensor&page=2 (Message edited by tootal on July 27, 2014) | ||
| Tootal |
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273568 &highlight=sensor&page=2 | ||
| Sagehawk |
Actually, catch cans arent cool. They are a pain as needing attention to clean and drain. Amazing how much water comes out of mine here on gulf coast. Twice a year, i pull top off and drop can to clean hoses. The hoses fill up with oil,water goo and almost close off for air flow.But at the end of the day, its a responsible thing to do. I dont want any spots to show where ive been. My ocd shows up with things like this and containment just seems right. | ||
| Etennuly |
I ran the exit end of my breather hose so that it drips onto the top back end of the muffler. That way it evaporates rather than dripping on the ground. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
so...new wires...new iridium plugs and 45 tps resets later and it still wont idle. If i hold the throttle open it backfires down low but runs fine anywhere above 2000 rpm. Is it possible for the tps to be bad without throwing a code? I cant understand this at all....i have done this procedure many times and was successful....and now its just a no go. And besides the low stutter every now and then it was running fine before i messed with it. UGH! I'm open to ideas....my only idea at the moment is light a match and call the insurance co. This has been a very frustrating weekend. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Have you tried riding it, holding it to 3500 rpm for a couple miles? Maybe it just needs to learn the new set. Did you reset the AFV also? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Bag the V reading...open the throttle with the cable until it idles. Then ride it. Get it hot. Set it a final time. And for my money...put the stock plugs back in. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
Xbimmer i did get it to idle then took it for a ride for a few miles....but then the idle started hanging up around 3000 rpm for idle... when i got back i found the vacuum cap on the throttle body to be cracked nearly in half causing a vacuum leak....but after fixing it i was back to a bike that wouldnt idle...I am seriously thinking my tps may need replaced? I say this because like it seems like anywhere else the bike runs fine but idle and just off idle. Maybe my tps is crapping out in that small range? It is after all just a glorified volume control as i understand it...and ive had tons of those go bad on guitars | ||
| Reepicheep |
Vern, does it rust? I wonder if you could take your idea a step further, and basically build an evaporator catch can that sits on top of the exhaust. I may try that. I rerouted breathers on the M2, hated the way it left a mess everywhere I parked, left the 9sx stock for 30k + miles with no problem and was thrilled. Then I smugly ran the stock setup on the Uly, and now have the engine all over my garage being de-gooed and looking back into a reroute option. I like the idea of an evaporator pan, something sacrificial as I expect it would would see a lot of abuse / rust / oxidation. | ||
| Tootal |
That vacuum cap is above the butterfly and will not cause a vacuum leak. It will only allow unfiltered air in. When you put the new TB shaft in did you pull the TB out of the bike? Did you mushroom or split the end of the screws so they don't back out? Just curious if your butterfly is loose? If it's moving around it could cause everything you're describing. | ||
| Reepicheep |
How do you mushroom those screws once they are in there Greg? Looking at them, I've wondered this before. I guess you could do it with the throttle body off the bike by putting something in from the bottom to support the shaft. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
My son's 07 and my 06 run well and without rerouting the breather hoses. It may help but it has never hurt our two bikes to run as stock. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
I never did replace the throttle body shaft yet....just bought the replacement to have on hand.....just in case | ||
| Tootal |
Reepicheep, I pulled the throttle body off and put a shaft in a vice and then backed up the screws. Some guys drilled a tiny hole in the end of the screws and used a center punch to flare them. The factory looks like they hit them with a small chisel to split them. Whatever way you want to do it I think it's important to do it. I've worked with a lot of HD carbs and DCOE side draft Webers and they all have one thing in common and that's flared screws on the butterfly. There are a few guys that have used red loctite and that's not a bad idea but I would still lean toward physically flaring the screw. There's just too much damage that could occur if a screw fell out and entered your intake!   |
