| Author | Message | ||
     Rodrob |
So while I have my motor apart, a need to solve the false neutral between 3rd and 4th and 5th and 6th issue that I have been having. First the obvious-     Clearly there is a dent in the shift drum where the 5/6 shift fork travels. There are also wear divots in this channel and for the 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. Have any of u seen this before and do you know what the cause might be? Could a crash have hit the shift lever so hard as to dent the shift drum, without breaking the lever? The drum will be replaced. The shift forks are worn, but not bent.   The worse wear seems to be on the 3/4 fork with the 5/6 fork a close second. I would not call this excessive, but must be a contributor. Opinions? These will be replaced. Not so obviously dogs have some wear on the edges -      I assume some wear is normal. Does this look excessive? These parts are expensive and I don't want to replace them unless I have to. There is very little info in the Service Manual re transmission wear tolerances. Educated opinions would be appreciated. | ||
| D_adams |
I'd replace the shift drum and forks, but the gears look ok for the most part. The dogs don't look too worn, the mated gear is a little bit, but still looks serviceable to me. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
IMO - pix look good...the shift mechanism may be to blame...back in the day we used to use these on our SV's/TLs (PM Slaughter- he knows these issues)...a listing for Aprilia (twin) seems to exist...warning if you call marc...he talks alot. http://www.factorypro.com/products/shift_kit,Facto ry_EVO.html hope this helps | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'd personally replace the gear with those dogs in the last photo (the male ones). My M2 dogs were worn just a little bit more than that, and they were jumping gears. (Disclaimer, there are probably a million other factors besides that rounded top edge that are different between an M2 and an Helicon transmission, so this advice is worth very little). No idea how you managed to divot the shift drum, but if its aluminum perhaps it's not that hard to do. My steel drum on the M2 had some lightly raised lips as well, and that was steel. I'd be tempted to try and file down the raised areas on that drum and use it... depending on the price of the replacement part. Though without a trap door tranny, it's a huge gamble. | ||
| Kenm123t |
Don't file it secure a Ball Pein Hammer and tap the raised area back to shape. once you have it as close to the original shape then you can file it to fit. The idea is put the original material back to when it came from. Working back in place will work harden it adding to its durability. | ||
| Jdugger |
My race motor had similar damage to the shift drum as well. It had never been down. Soft aluminum... sigh. | ||
| Rodrob |
Has anybody had the drum and forks Nikasil coated? | ||
| Kenm123t |
Rob that sounds Like a Patrick Question I have run Nikasil liners and Mahle pistons for years in the LT5 Mercruiser Powered ZR1. They were honed after coating I do not know how even the coating would be and how you could true it up after plating on the complex shapes of the drum the forks look like they can be honed | ||
| Skntpig |
Cryo treatment? I have heard it works for internals, clutch and sprockets etc. but don't have any experience myself. | ||
| Rodrob |
Rob that sounds Like a Patrick Question Patrick? I know you have to hone a cylinder, but I wonder if that would be needed on the shift drum. Cryo treatment was mentioned by one of the shops I have spoken with. Sounds like an interesting option. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Rob ...you may need some thing like this: http://symcoat.net/pdf/Symcoat_Entecoat_Flyer.pdf check with the platers/metal processes shops up in LA....Symcoat is closed due to (city) plumbing problems | ||
| Sl33py |
Rob - don't know if this helps, or if you'll see it in time... http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-Buell-1125-1125R-1125CR -TRANSMISSION-GEARS-TRANNY-/130507771801 Seems like a decent deal if it gets you some of the parts you need for cheap? GL! | ||
| Rodrob |
I looked at Ebay and of course there is no way of knowing if those parts are in any better shape than mine, but at that price it might be worth a shot. Symcoat looks like an excellent option. I'll investigate. Thanks | ||
| Rodrob |
Symcoat is closed, but the owner was there clearing stuff out. According to him, I might run into the problem of the coating flaking off due to the soft aluminum substrate. He suggested hard anodizing which would harden the aluminum, and then possibly a nickel/Teflon plating. So I'm investigating. | ||
| Rodrob |
After speaking with a couple of processors, the consensus is that hard anodizing is the best way to go and that nickel/Teflon plating would probably be overkill due to cost. The problem is going to getting the bearings out of the drum and forks prior too, and then back in after anodizing. Obviously there is a cost/benefit equation here that might not make sense for a one off application. If I end up spending 3X to get a part that lasts 2X, well.... but if the tranny lasts a lot longer....? Might be worth the $100 minimum to find out. | ||
| Sl33py |
Rob - perhaps contact the seller and ask for some better closeup shots? I thought due to the price it might be worth a shot like you said. GL! | ||
| Kenm123t |
Patrick = Aesquire here on bad web |
