| Author | Message | ||
     Gun_for_hire |
My Xb12x has served me well, had few issues in its 13k mi life since I got it new in 08. It took me across the country on the TAT trail in 09. This new issue sucks. My Bad for not investigating why the bike seemed to lean a little more than normal lately. If I did I would have seen that it's held on by two bolts and one had sheared off who knows when. The remaining bolt stretched I guess and let the bracket pivot. About a week or so of this and the remaining bolt snapped. Today I removed the muffler fairings and muffler and took a look. I was able to make center punch pretty easy and then drilled the center of the bolts with a few small sized bits. Made a mistake be not drilling far / big enough and using and undersized easy out. Turned one bolt a 1/4 turn and Snappo... Now I had a Fresh piece of hardened steel in the center of a bolt as well. Bang head Deep breath Ugh Keep in mind... It's summer, I live on a houseboat in Key West. Nearest HD dealer is a 8 hr drive RT. last time I took bike to dealer was for an oil change. The •••• faces stripped my drain plug bolt. I didn't find out till it came out with aluminum pieces when I did my next change solo. No more dealers for me. This means I'm working on the bike on the dock/ pier adjacent to the boat. I have to put protection down so I don't drop a bolt thru the dock and into the drink and the siltly ass bottom 8' down. Nothing that is dropped to the bottom is ever found. Im Working on the standless bike which is upright and leaning on a dock piling. A bunch of rope under the back tire is my chock. Put the bike In gear also. if it falls over it can go into the 4' deep saltwater. bye bye. I have an old tent fly giving me shade and hiding me from the neighbors. I live at the end of a "T" dock so it pretty private. Key West has its down sides. With some metalworking tools, a better easyout and some patience I was able to get the other bolt out. It fought the whole way but had no corrosion. Tight ••••••• fit ! What's that about? Really why the heck it it so snug all the way out ? was a real bitch to keep repositioning the easyout turning tool which couldnt spin more than 1/2 turn at a time. at least i got it out clean but it took alot of futzing. Now the bolt with the broken easy out requiresd attention. I saw that the metal of the bolt around it looked weak so I got a sharp 1/4" wide chisel and started trying to relieve the piece of easy out by pushing sections of the bolt away. It worked and I pulled the bit o steel out with needle nose. After that I got it out like the first one. After reading bad web during a break in this project I decided to go out and get grade 8 bolts and lock washers. Put the bolts in with some locktite blue. The stock bolts are 5/16x18 x 1&1/4" Don't want to do that again. Total job time 4.5 hrs. Time for a goddam beer. Make it a few. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I just modified my son's 07 ULY side stand bolts by replacing both the bolts with grade 8 7/16 x 14 bolts. Drilled and tapped and blue loctited them in. They are much larger looking than the stock bolts. Got them at Tractors Supply store. The stock bolts hadn't failed but I had the engine rotated for rear rocker box gaskets and new Regulator so why not. My 06 ULY did shear one of the stock bolts last year and I replaced it with a 7/16 x 14 and haven't had any problems since but wish I had done both the bolts like I did my son's ULY. | ||
| Teeps |
The stock bolts are grade 8. Here's what I did before the recall was announced. Parts: (2)Bolts, 1 1/2" Allen head alloy steel 5/16x18 (black) (4)Washer flat, grade 8 (2)Washer lock, grade 8 Assemble two sets of bolts with 1 lock washer followed by two flat washers. Place a drop of clean engine oil on the bolt threads and the washer stack. Assemble and torque to 27lbs/ft. California Buell/h-d performed the side stand recall on my '06 Uly. The recall bolts are still in place. Having said that, I fully expect them to both simultaneously fail during tomorrows ride... | ||
| Uly_man |
"Tight ••••••• fit ! What's that about?". THAT is the HD locking fluid. A real pain in the f ass to say the least. You will find it on other parts of the bike as well so take care on removing any other bolts as it is easy to shear off heads and/ or break Torx bits. | ||
| Gun_for_hire |
Uly Man, thats good to know. Now I gotta figure out why the starter hesitates before engaging. Been doing it for a year, seems to have gotten worse lately. I saw that it may be a Uly Quirk... But it never did it previously. I was thinking maybe the TPS was out of whack ? | ||
| Etennuly |
TPS reset has more to do with fuel/throttle/smooth running than starting. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Etennuly, It may have more to do with smooth running but when the zero gets too far off it certainly affects starting. That's my feeling at least. | ||
| Dtaylor |
"Now I gotta figure out why the starter hesitates before engaging. Been doing it for a year, seems to have gotten worse lately." Meaning a pause between hitting the button and the starter solenoid energizing, or the starter struggling for momentum? If it the former, I'd start by checking/cleaning the grounds and swapping a brand new relay with the Starter relay, and Keyswitch relay. (or use the Aux relay, but it doesn't hurt to have a good spare relay on hand anyhow) | ||
| Gun_for_hire |
It's more like this: Push starter::: solenoid engages, motor turns a bit then stops, if keeping finger on button it will go again It's like it gets "hung up". The compression theory seems right given the behavior. It's not an electrical connection I don't think. Strange thing is its only done it for the last year or so. I had 12k miles where it started normal. | ||
| Teeps |
My '06 has done as you describe since I bought it used with 800 miles in May of '06. Even with the recently installed new Yuasa battery, it hesitates before starting. Cold start procedure: key on. wait for CEL to complete bulb check; turn off. bump the start button momentarily, to rock the engine. wait 1 or 2 seconds, then press and hold start button until engine starts. Hot start procedure: key on. wait for CEL to complete bulb check; turn off. press and hold start button until engine starts. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I start my 06 like teeps. 30k and the factory battery is still under the seat. Heat helps the bolts come out. Get a plumbers torch. Heat the bolt for 90 seconds. Turn it out till it gets tight. Apply more heat. Repeat until the bolt is out. I've worked on my uly on its side. Lay it over gently (bonus if you have saddlebags, they're great pads!) and you get a clear shot. Makes life much easier! Enjoy KW. I haven't been there for years...I must remedy that soon. Maybe if I book a site at Boyds, I'll be able to make myself go... | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I layed the ULY over on a seat out of an old mini van. Then it was easy to work on the sidestand bolts. | ||
| Sagehawk |
On that crank, pause, crank---- start thing. Interesting how our buells have 200 cca batteries and my wifes 96 sporster sport has a 320 cca battery in it. She also has less of cams, less compression with NO pause in cranking.Ive wondered bout making another seat pan to hold a larger battery in 12x. You always have that what if in the back of youre mind when that compression stroke comes up. | ||
| Hootowl |
"Push starter::: solenoid engages, motor turns a bit then stops, if keeping finger on button it will go again" This sounds like solenoid contacts or a weak battery. | ||
| Teeps |
Hootowl Posted on Monday, June 16, 2014 - "Push starter::: solenoid engages, motor turns a bit then stops, if keeping finger on button it will go again" This sounds like solenoid contacts or a weak battery. Agreed, but on mine a new battery improved but did not eliminate the "symptom." Hot starts are fine, so that eliminates resistance across the solenoid switch contacts. | ||
| Rayycc1 |
does the muffler have to be removed to access these bolts? | ||
| Teeps |
Rayycc1 Posted on Monday, June 16, 2014 - does the muffler have to be removed to access these bolts? Yes |
