| Author | Message | ||
     Sir_wadsalot |
Just picked up an XT, LOVE IT. Longtime sportbike guy, 10 yrs riding, track days, etc.- currently have an 1125R (she's for sale). I don't know how the former owner had it set up, but it feels tall up front and a bit mushey. That all I can tune out, but I'm going to lower the front on the forks a bit. I like the nose down, tail up stance and like the turn in sharp on my bikes. I usually set them up for the track and leave them that way. Is there a general consensus reccomendation on fork raising/headstock lowering? Like for the SV1K, it was down 11mm, on the 1125R it was raise it to the top of the fork (although, I kept mine stock). Any track guys or hard chargers with reccomendations for the XT? Not suspension adjustment, just fork height, please. Oh, and is something like the jasonB lowering washer thingus reccomended? I never ever lower bikes, other than to drop the nose a hair, but y'all are more familiar with Ullys than I am. I would rather the rear was too tall and handle great than flat foot a turd. Drummers sound sick, one of the Ullys I test rode had a baffled drummer, and it sounded phenomenal without killing the neighbors. I know the rule of thumb is add the new pipe, power commander or custom tuned ECM- my bike has the EBR ECM tuned to the stock pipe. I know these bikes also have the power valve in the exhaust. Does an aftermarket can disable the power valve? Is it a simple matter of adding the can, shipping the ECU back to EBR and haveing them reflash it for the new muffler and go? Or is there tomfoolery that goes on with the power valve actuator? It runs very strong now- stronger than the few other Ullys & XB's I've ridden before. I just want it to sound more gooder. Thank you in advance- your service to the Empire will be rewarded. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I've never seen anyone here post that they lowered the front of their Uly to improve the handling. The bike has aggressive front geometry, even for a sport bike (even though it's not supposed to be one), so I'd be surprised if lowering the front helps anything. Did you follow the factory recommendations for front and rear suspension adjustments? If you haven't done that, I'd highly recommend you start there before you change anything else. The factory recommendations are normally spot-on without any other tweaking. If you do feel the need to tweak after the initial setting, the owner's manual has recommendations on what to change to achieve what effect. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Heah. Perhaps previous owner set it up strangely. | ||
| Gp81 |
I never changed the fork height.... The steering geometry is pretty well set, at least in my opinion. As for the drummer can, I have one on my 06x and LOVE it. The actuator valve is no longer, basically from my understanding is they cut roughly 4-6" off the back of your stock can, gut the insides and put a 2 1/2" outlet on it... Bout three years ago the screws holding the back plate fell out and the plate fell off (ran it over) and it sounded MONSTROUS.... all I found inside was a screen, and then I riveted it back on. Thinking bout getting a D&D for my 08xt | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
I know how to set suspension to stock, thanks, but that's not what I need. You lower the front of sportbikes to steepen the rake/trail numbers, it quickens turn in. In most cases they actually raise the rear on race bikes, for the same reason. Buells are a tad different due to the radical rake and trail from factory. I ride pretty hard, and if it handles this well before I have touched anything, she's gonna see a track day or two. I can almost hold the same corner speeds on it as on my 1125, which amazed me....the Ully XT is seriously impressive, now I get what you guys have been on about all this time! Glad I listened  @Hugh- the XT is more of a sportbike than I expected it to be, it's amazing! I gather the consensus here is "we set them to stock and enjoy the ride". I'll ask the Lightning guys how they run their setups. I wouldn't be surprised if they say stock height too, I was amazed they reccomended raising it with the 1125. Lol...you never know with Buells, that's why I ask! Being the sportbike junkie I am, I'll confer with the track junkies and XB gurus and see how hardcore I can get it. Might make an interesting thread....supersport tourer lol. @GP81- On the old Drummers they did cut off a stocker, but the current ones are purpose made, I'm pretty sure. Any more input on the whole exhaust setup issue? Or do most of you keep them stock? I kept the 1125 stock, because every time I hit the gas it's "go to jail" fast- not as much of a worry here. Let's make some noise! | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I have only taken my '08 to the track a couple of times. I've felt no need to change it's suspension geometry. That said, my bike is an '08 X, not an XT. The lower suspension on an XT may differ. I get to the track about once per month. Both my GSXR and now my R6 are set up tail-high. I don't lower the bike on the forks because I do not want to lose ground clearance. I felt that the Ulysses was fine. It's overall height in general slows it down in rapid side to side transitions, but its overall competence draws no complaints from me. I have found that the bike is ultra sensitive to rear pre-load (and resulting ride-height) setting. Check into that. | ||
| Smac |
Hi Jason, Welcome to the forum! I also own an XT & have a CBR929 that is tuned for the track but I also ride it on the street...I think I understand where your coming from. If you've exhausted the suspension mods from your XT, than dropping the front end a little would be a good next step but I believe you'll be the guinea pig here! I'd be interested to here your results/recommendations. Also, the front end dimensions and chassis of the XT (maybe all Buells for that matter) is unique to anything I've owned. I swear, I can even notice a psi or 2 difference in front end behavior...I religiously check my tire pressure. Speaking of tires, tire wear is also extremely noticeable & changes the front end feel. As for the Drummer, I don't have one but that's the aftermarket one I would buy if I had the extra funds. I would go with the Stainless Steel option though...the reworked stock muffler by Drummer is still subject to rust rather quickly. For the ECM, you can purchase a pre-tuned Race ECM from EBR like you did with your 1125R...simple plug & play (only need to perform a TPS reset). | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
@Mark- The XT and X are severely different, and cannot be compared at all. If you could ride it with your eyes closed, you wouldn't think they were both Ullys. Everyone does keep mentioning preload- maybe because of the super tall forks? @Smac- I don't mind being the guinnea pig, I love blowing a weekend or two on suspension setup. The 1125 is bone stock, my XT has the EBR race ECM. With that and the stock muffler it runs extremely well. I've only ridden three other XB type bikes, (all with drummers, come to think of it), and it out pulls them all. I'm thinking of a Hawk, just because they're cheap, and can retain the power valve...but the Drummers sound great. the Drummer with the baffle was really the perfect sound vs db levels. My issue is that I've never had a power valved bike. On my SV1K I added a race exhaust and Power Commander- fattened up the whole curve and a bit more up top. Nice and adjustable, I loved it. It was soooo loud- but I lived out in the woods. Now I have neighbors. I still want to scare deer, but not scare children. So race systems are out. Now, on exhaust valved bikes, if you lose the valve, you lose your mid range. That's fine on a CBR600- you add a full Akro system, and you wring it's neck, all the time. I don't want to wring the Ullys neck. I don't want to pull/disable the power valve and have a big hit up top, know what I mean? I "feel" like, if I set the bike up that way it won't live long. I'de rather have the torque in the 3-5 K range, instead of keeping it on the boil at 4-7 all the time. Will a Drummer just shift the whole curve up top? Is it (and Kedas or whatever else) designed with that in mind, just straight through top end flow, or is there mid range in there? Again, with the Hawk the exhaust valve is kept, I imagine there are a few others that keep it too. And say I go with the Drummer, and it moves it all up top. How much does the "race" ECM "learn"? Do I mail it back to EBR and tell them to put a Drummer map in it? Or do I add a Power Commander to the system and have it dyno tuned? I had great success with that route on the SV- the race pipes were straight through, but the PC3 really fattened up the bottom end. On the down side, it seems wasteful to pay for the race ECM, and then add more to it. On the up side, and this is where I'm leaning, the race ECM has the stock setup running REALLY REALLY well. Adding the Power Commander will let me build on that. What do you think? | ||
| Dtaylor |
I think you should take a trip to Quebec and buy this stainless Drummer complete with skidplate and EBR ECU. $500 is a sweet deal. I suspect the seller is either Matt McCuaig, or his Uly's new owner: http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-image.html?adId=585054 686&image=0&enableSearchNavigationFlag=true | ||
| Mhevezi |
Sir- As a 2008 XT owner, with a Drummer (core wrap Drummer) - dB Killer insert and an EBR ECM, I can safely say that there is no need to keep the bike north of 4k to have any fun. The dB killer does a great job of knocking the sound down to close-to-stock levels, but it is tuneable. At the advice of Kevin with Drummer, I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center of my dB killer and got a nice mix of sound and performance. Since then I have enlarged the hole to 5/16" and I like it even better. When I'm REALLY feeling Randy, I pull the dB killer out altogether and I set car alarms off at will. Not what I want for my daily commute, but a fun option. With the dB killer out, the bike pulls like snot. That is, if snot could pull. I recommend you choose your preferred setup BEFORE you order your Race ECM from EBR and Erik's crew will tune to your setup. I run a K&N a/f with a Drummer and that is what my Race ECM is set to. FYI- when I ordered my Drummer, I opted for the Core Wrap option, which removes the power valve and seals the can, 100%- no need to re-pack the packing. I hear with this setup, the Drummer is louder than a re-packable Drummer. I can attest that the Drummer Without the dB killer was a little to loud for me- and I'm not that old. I'm pretty sure all the Drummer cans lay waste to the power valve. In any case, the Drummer/EBR ECM setup is a fine choice that many have made and it is not a top-end-only setup. I can overheat a corner, go deep- way past the apex and still dig my speed back out from as low as 2K rpms. Easier with the dB killer out, but it will do it with the dB killer and some liberal clutch application. good luck and let us know how it all comes out. | ||
| Uly_man |
"I swear, I can even notice a psi or 2 difference in front end behavior". So do I and you will as well. If you want it to steer faster up the front tire pressure by 2 psi and/ or up the rear pre-load one turn plus at a time. Do it "on the move" for best results. "Lowering forks - In most cases they actually raise the rear on race bikes, for the same reason". If you lower the forks you will shift some of the weight forward which may well unload some off the rear end and raise it up. You can give it a try but it is not something I would do on this bike as I feel there is no need. I have had loads of sports bikes but NONE handle as well on the road like the Buells and the Uly does it with no drama if you hit a big bump or hole in the road as well. It just sails over them while a sports bike would try and push your spine through your skull? The "R" is a sports bike the "X/XT" is not but handles like one and fast enough for most "road going" work. The Uly, unlike some sports bikes, is also VERY forgiving with the handling. It has no vices that I have found. The "mushy" front end can be fixed with a little extra, 3ml, of heavy oil per fork (from the OEM factory fill) and then readjust comp and rebound. It will also stop the fork dive on braking. Just as a "by the by" I had a slight cornering issue on getting my 10 bike. The lean from either side was not the same. I traced this to one fork being 1 mm higher than the other. So it is very sensitive and if you want to do this then do it by 2 mm at a time to see the results. Just my opinion though. | ||
| Tootal |
If you want a little more noise just wire the muffler valve open and see what it's like. I took a wire eyelet connector and lightly crimped it behind the cable end. I just pulled the valve open and attached the eyelet to one of the actuator mounting screws. Don't physically move the actuator by hand, you will trash it. Since you have the EBR ECM it's already running a little richer than stock so it may not lose as much torque as the stock ecm. I really like the sound level but with a stock ecm it didn't run as well. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
I already have the EBR ECM installed, with the stock muffler. Came from the former owner that way. Since it's mapped to stock exhaust, If I go the Drummer route, will I have to ship it back to EBR to have it re-mapped? I'll be more specific on wanting to keep the power valve, I rode a Ully with the silenced Drummer- sounded great, had no power. The check engine light was on for the exhaust valve, which was rigged open. Supposedly. I rode two XB 12's with Drummer SS's- extremely loud, fabulous sound- also pigs. Don't know about their electronics. It could also be that I got right off the 1125 and on the XB...and sorry guys, but the '25 made them feel like they're going backwards. That said though, I never got the "pig" feel from the XT I bought, so I'm guessing it's gotta be the electronics, and if Erik put the power valve in, maybe I should keep it. I've never seen, or even heard of another big bore twin that had one. "I'm pretty sure all the Drummer cans lay waste to the power valve." Are you sure about that? Because according to that big exhaust test everyone references, the Buell race muffler and all the open "loud" ones- Drummer SS included, were only worth something like 3hp at peak, over stock with the valve. Or did I read it wrong? I just don't want to gain that frog fart up top at the expense of midrange. But I'm still learning about the XB motors- that's why I'm asking the experts! You guys! I appreciate the responses, I'm learning a ton. @Uly Man- You're spot on with the handling thing. It handles unbelievably well- at human speeds I'm starting to think it's actually more fun than the 1125...and easier to ride fast. I can just throw it into turns and don't have to worry about it killing me if I make a minor mistake. I've been on liter twins so ling, I've forgotten what a "normal" bike feels like. It's a blast! And yeah, I was thinking something like 2mm drop up front, unless you all had another reccomendation. | ||
| Afsoc_commando |
Sir_wadsalot Follow this link and download the exhaust shootout report. It includes Dyno's for all the pipes, mp3 files for audio and a great write up. It will give you all the minutia you are hunting for. http://www.americansportbike.com/Exhaust_Shootout. html For the suspension I would suggest getting it set up correctly and the tires inflated correctly and ride it for a while before you start messing with the geometry to see if it truly needs you to lower it. Appearance of ass up is not geometry and has nothing to do with the handling. My 2009 XT is tire pressure sensitive and load sensitive, You can really feel big differences with small changes in this bike. Good Luck! | ||
| Froggy |
I would highly recommend it, the Drummer is dramatically different and given that it is an option I would get the ECM adjusted for it.
The Drummer does not retain the exhaust valve. If I remember right, the "EconoDrummer", might have, but it has been discontinued for years. Special Ops retains the valve, possibly the Hawk too, I am not aware of any others.
That is likely because it was being ridden with the Stock ECM. The ECM does more for these bikes than the exhaust. The stock exhaust works pretty damn good, it is just the EPA compliant fuel mapping that hurts them. That is why your Stock pipe with EBR ECM feels stronger.
I experience the same thing, after an afternoon on either of my 1125s, I hop back on either XB12 I own, one of which is stock pipe with EBR ECM, another with a Micron and matching American Sport Bike tune, both XBs feel like I'm towing a boat. Short of extensive (expensive) engine modification, you aren't going to match the stupid amounts of power of the 1125. I ride with my girlfriend on the back, when we are on the Ulysses, the lack of power is more noticeable. She is a big girl, I've been packing on pounds, and we ride with a lot of cargo. On the Ulysses in group rides, we struggle to accelerate with the group, and in situations where we are legally passing cars I really need to wring it out and plan for extra room. On the 1125, once moving, having her on the back is not even noticeable, still pulls from 60-90MPH in 6th gear like I have JATO rockets. I have noticed that the 1125 is more sensitive with her in regards to movement, I can feel everything she does and it heavily provides input for the steering, vs the Uly she can play twister and I would be none the wiser. Sorry, time to get back on topic.
Honestly I really recommend keeping stock, other than it rusts like a the Titanic, it works great.
 | ||
| Uly_man |
"unless you all had another recommendation". I would leave it for the moment. Put some miles on the bike and see how it goes. | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
*Appearance of ass up is not geometry and has nothing to do with the handling.* I do track days, not parking lot festivals. I don't recall using the word "appearance". I'm sightly hurt by your implication of squiddery there...sniff sniff...lol your headstock/tail height affects your rake and trail, haveing plenty do do with handling. Me dropping the head by 2-6mm isn't going to affect the "appearance". @Froggy- Thanks for the input! We're on the same page here, I can actually go faster two up on the Ully than I ever would on the 1125. I like really kinky, technical roads that get the '25 all upset when the wife shifts- the Ully I can just throw in and keep the same corner speed with more stability- twister indeed. That's the main reason I got it, for two up work, and it's fantastic. I didn't expect to get 1125 power, I just want it to sound better, and don't want to lose low end. Which is what happens when you remove power valves. Thanks for the remapping advice, that's what I needed to know. The Hawk and the Spec Ops both keep the valve. I'm leaning toward the Spec Ops. Cheap, simple solution, retaining the power valve. I literally just don't like the way the stocker sounds, it performs flawlessly. If I have money to throw at it and want to fool with tuning, probably go with Drummer. The frog fart up top is gaining 3 HP over stock. I don't want do a lot of work, get a frog fart's worth of power when it's wrung out, and lose all my midrange, which was what happened on the SV. Sounded awesome, got a small surge of top end, big hole in the midrange. Electronics fixed it, it's just Buells are special animals and I don't want to assume anything. I still haven't even set the suspension to stock yet, and it's still awesome  Thanks again- will keep you updated on my findings- by the way, how often do you all rebuild forks? | ||
| Sir_wadsalot |
OK, here's where I'm at- Did the stock setup, for two up. Full tight on the preload (by the book) did jack the rear, y'all were right, it's real sensitive to rear preload. Quickened the turn in nicely. With just me it was very comfy but felt just a hair floaty. Front dive on braking not too bad. Went full on with the front preload, firmed it up a bit. Think I'll go back to stock (just a half turn out), firm up the rear rebound and the front compression and rock it. Then start experimenting with the fork drop. It wheelies like a beast with the stock two up setup- rode with the wife to work, front launched three times! Again, you guys were right, the stock settings were very good. Better than the 1125R's stock settings. What a great bike. |
