| Author | Message | ||
     Jackweller |
Hello All, I have been wanting a Buell for years. Saved up and bought one yesterday, 2009 1125CR. I noticed during the test ride a hesitation around 3500 to 4000 rpm. I didn't think it was too bad, but on my ride in to work this morning it was really noticeable. I read tat these bikes are cold natured so I gave it ample time to warm up, and it was well into the operating temperature. Being used (bought from a dealership) I don't know much of the history (as far as mods) of the bike other than the service (oil change etc.) It has 6300 miles, previous owner added a FMF Apex exhaust. I am not sure what tune this bike currently has. I am attempting to contact the previous owner to get any details. My question for you guys is... is there a way to tell what tune is currently on the bike, and what tune would be recommended for this set up? Also is there any one in the N.E. Florida area on this board? One last thing, I am currently strapped for money having just purchased the bike, so ideas or advice that is low buck would be appreciated to start. | ||
| Fluffy282 |
You can pull the front left scoop off and see if the ecu says "for off-road use only" then you'll know it has an ebr ecu (presumably for that exhaust). I've had my cr for 3 years and that hesitation never goes away. Next year I think I'm going to purchase a power commander and have the bike dyno tuned... Maybe that will help. | ||
| 1313 |
First off, welcome to Buell ownership and Badweb! The easiest thing to do that will be a step in the right direction is to remove the left pod cover (handful of T30 Torx screws - some of which are kind of 'hidden') so you can get a look at the ECM. When running an aftermarket exhaust, the only way to have it run properly is with a proper tune such as an EBR Race ECM specific for your bike model and aftermarket muffler. It is possible, although somewhat rare, for the average tuner to have the capability to properly tune a Buell, so the EBR Race ECM is the most likely method to properly tune a Buell. If you have an EBR Race ECM, it will have 'For Race Use Only' milled/engraved into the visible surface once you get the pod cover off. It should also have a white label with a black alpha-numeric code identifying what map (bike model and specific muffler programming) is on the ECM. Unfortunately I don't think the codes are public knowledge, but there's likely a handful of people on here with the same bike, exhaust and ECM that would gladly compare the code on their ECM with you. So to simplify: Pull left pod cover. Look for 'Race Use Only' and a label with an alpha numeric code. If the ECM has neither there is always the possibility of it having been tuned by a shop, but that will be harder to ascertain. Good luck & we're here to help our fellow Buell riders! 1313 | ||
| Tq_freak |
Hey Welcome to the board!! I think I have a slight hesitation, i either cant remember or have grown used to it (16k+ miles on it) I'll try to pay attention if I take it to work tomorrow, Ive been on an XB kick this week just like everyone else has said, take a look under her pod and double check. I also have an 09 CR with a FMF Apex. if you do have a race ECM I'll check the sticker on mine and see what it says. also if you are ever down in Flagler beach let me know. (just south of St Augustine and north of Ormond/Daytona) | ||
| Jackweller |
Ok, finally had a chance to work on the bike. Check the ECM it has FOR RACE USE ONLY milled into it and it has a sticker attached that says M3FMP012. What I am experiencing isn't really hesitation, when I open the throttle more from any RPM it pulls really hard. But when cruising at a steady speed it sort of surges, like the feeling of riding into head wind gusts. One other note, I am ordering the resistor to do a "denoid". My throttle cable has a really hard pull. Probably twice that of my Thruxton. I released the cable coming from the solenoid and it seemed to relieve some of the torque needed to twist the throttle. (I didn't crank it or ride it this way) I reconnected it for the time being until I can remove the solenoid. | ||
| Froggy |
Just disconnect the cable from the solenoid to the throttle body. You don't need the resistor or to even totally remove the solenoid if you don't want to, as the Race ECM disables it and the CEL light for it. | ||
| Jackweller |
Thanks Froggy. I want to say thanks to everyone. This board is awesome so far. I expected to get flamed for my first post. People telling me to use the search button or FAQ, (I used both.) But everyone has been helpful.I appreciate it. | ||
| Froggy |
That annoys me when I see it on other forums, then when you do search you end up with a flood of posts that only say "use the search" rather than pointing you in the right direction. Turns into an circle of uselessness. That said the FAQ does need some work, last time I looked at it, it was starting to fill with noise and some more recent good threads should be mentioned. Also I forgot to mention in my last post, disconnecting that solenoid pull cable may resolve your issue if it is just the throttle cables having some binding, which occurs if the cables and airbox are not 100% correctly installed. Some slight surging is normal even with the race ECM, as it is not tuned for your specific bike, but realistically it is close enough to not matter unless you are a perfectionist. You may want to see if you can meet up with other Buellers in the area, possibly even swap bikes to see if your bike is normal or not. Check the "Storm Fronts" section of the board, I'm not familiar with Florida but I know there are a bunch of guys out there. I hope you enjoy thousands of miles on your new ride  | ||
| B2tomtom |
Welcome to the forum! This place is great for information. The members here are very helpful and instead of flaming someone for asking a common question they usually provide a link to the previous discussion. What speed/rpm is your bike surging at? These bikes don't really like the lower rpms and can be jerky. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Another thought is you may have had some old gas in there and, with ethanol, it gets gummy over time. Any time your bike sits for more than 60 days, add some stabilizer to the fuel tank. I use Amsoil. Just started my 1125 after it sat for 23 months. Rode it for a couple of hours and it was running rough, but running. New gas at end of ride and I'm sure it will clear up. Welcome to BadWeb! | ||
| Jackweller |
Ok, had some time to ride the bike. Put about 200 miles on it Tuesday. It does so well on the highway, but in town below 4000 rpm not so much. Yesterday I found that the baro sensor was installed with the little straw facing up. I repositioned it the right way around and was excited to ride it today. Still not perfect, but it does seem to be a little better, may just be my imagination. One question, does it take a few start cycles for the computer to relearn or what not? (Message edited by jackweller on June 05, 2014) | ||
| Nuts4mc |
you may want to check out this old link - it has many "tips" and may answer some of your other questions..or tell you what you may be in store for!... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/525759.html?1379285142 as for "computer" learning... a) if you mean the ECM ( engine control module)...once installed it needs about 10 minutes at idle to become "one" with the bike...you may want to try disconnecting the battery ...reconnect it and start the bike - let it idle for 10 minutes....suggest you shut off the bike and then complete a TPS reset ( see the link above for info on TPS reset)...then take it for a spin. b) if you mean the instrument panel (IC) is the "computer" you need about 50 starts before error codes that appear are "erased" hope this helps | ||
| Workman482 |
Hi and welcome to the forum and 1125's! The forum is a great wealth of information and help from other members! I had a similar "bucking" sensation when I got my 'R. I went so far as to take it to my local HD dealer to have them check recalls and ecm flash version. They said everything was up to par. I don't remember who, bit someone suggested I dial in the suspension for my weight and riding style and pretty much eliminated the "bucking" sensation! | ||
| Workman482 |
BTW,what part of N.W. Florida are you in? I live by Ft. Rucker in S.W. Alabama. | ||
| Jackweller |
I am in North East Florida. I set the suspension for my weight and that made the bike feel better. I am still feeling the surging. The best way to describe it is the feeling when you hit a headwind. | ||
| Workman482 |
Is there any change in engine speed when this occurs? I don't know hat your previous experience or knowledge is with setting suspension, (I'll admit I'm a novice at it), but here is a good article covering the basic with links to specific measurements and adjustments. http://www.sportrider.com/suspension-setup-guide (Message edited by workman482 on June 10, 2014) | ||
| Jackweller |
No noticeable change, the tach doesn't seem to show any fluxuation. I do hear a pop in the exhaust every now and then but it is fairly open (FMF Apex) so I expect this a little. | ||
| Redbat |
Welcome to the forum Jack, To compare notes about surging at a steady cruise at highway speeds, my CR also seems to have an almost imperceptible surge. It's done this since new, but it's more in the sound of the exhaust than an actual feel of surging. Makes me wonder if it's just a resonance of sound at speed rather than an actual surge. The bike runs great so I just ignore it. |
