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Johnglover
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 06:28 pm: | 
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For starters I've got a 2002 Buell Blast. Only minor problems in the past, none with my brakes.
Here's the problem. Yesterday I noticed my front brake lever felt stiffer than normal, it was a hell of a lot tougher to pull and it activated the brake after about a millimeter of pulling. I didn't think much of it (bad decision #1.) Same situation this morning, no problems though.
Then after work today on my way home after about my fourth stop sign, I felt my front brake lock up, like it just got stuck. Luckily I was only about 40ft from my driveway and I super rev'd that f*ckr the rest of the way.
I looked at the brake pad, yep it's clamped down. Spit on the disc, and it sizzled like a frying pan.
Any advice? I have no idea where to start. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 07:02 pm: |
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UPDATE: after letting my bike sit for about 45 minutes, I went out too see if it would roll. It rolled. The brakes are no longer locked. There was less pressure behind the brake lever. There is however, a light scraping noise coming from the front brake like it's still slightly engaged.
Please tell me this narrows it down a little.... |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 08:50 pm: |
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Change the brake fluid... its probably water in the line, which heated up until it boiled, which expanded and applied the brakes. After it cooled down, it turned back to water. The rotor was hot because it was dragging.
Flush all the fluid and replace it, and unless the rotor or pads were damaged by heat, you should be good to go. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 09:11 pm: |
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Thanks Reepicheep, I'll pray that that is the solution. After a few google searches I'm starting to scare myself.
Now, I have no manual, and no clue how to change the front brake fluid. You don't have to explain it to me. But, is it something an inexperienced person could do easily with instructions? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 08:54 am: |
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As jobs go, it's a pretty easy one. But as systems go, it's a pretty important one. The one most likely to kill you if you do it wrong and go for a ride.
I can help describe the process and you can decide if you think you can do it safely or not and what level of expert or professional involvement you need.
I've done this on every bike I have owned (a bunch) including 3 Buells, but never a blast, so YMMV.
First, you take the cover off the master cylinder up by the brake lever. On most bikes this is two Phillips head screws, but on some it's a screw off cap. Brake fluid eats paint, and you will inevitbly splash some before you are done with this, so take precautions with rags and paper towels over paint you want to keep.
Then you go down by the caliper, and find a little rubber cap on a "bleeder bolt".
I use a harbor freight brake bleeder kit or a mity vac for this part, it is much easier this way with one person. But you can rig up your own setup with some tubing and a catch can.
Basically, you either suck the old fluid out from the bottom (my preference), or pump it out the bottom with the caliper. Keep adding fresh fluid in at the top while you pump or pull it out the bottom. You want to keep the master cylinder filled so you don't suck air in the top, and you want to keep the tubing sealed as you slightly loosen the bleeder bolt at the bottom (making a little fluid trap) to keep air from getting in at the bottom.
After 5 to 30 minutes of fussing, you will have pumped out all the old dirty fluid and you will have fresh fluid in there.
I'm sure there are youtube videos showing how to bleed brakes, it's pretty much the same on most vehicles. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 11:35 am: |
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I appreciate it Reepicheep. Thanks for taking the time to explain it. I'll give it a shot today, and hopefully be good to go on a ride. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 01:26 pm: |
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Its easy to accidentally let some air in. If you do, you can get it out, but it may take some time and fussing. |
Daddio
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2014 - 12:03 pm: |
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Johnglover, another thing to consider is the brake caliper pistons are sticking in their bores, especially if the bike sits outside much Get a can of spray brake cleaner, and clean 'em up. Ideally, you want to pull the caliper off the fork leg, and remove the pads to clean the piston. I'm not familiar with Blast brakes to know if they have opposing pistons, or if the calipers slide on pins. If pins, remove 'em, clean 'em and lube 'em with brake grease. If you do this, be careful not to get any grease on the pad surfaces or rotor, AND do not touch the brake lever, or you can pop the piston clean out. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Friday, June 06, 2014 - 09:43 pm: |
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Well I just changed my brake fluid & flushed about 12oz through first. The old stuff was almost brown. Went out for a ride for about ten minutes and no lock-up or hot rotor. Hopefully this resolved my problem. I'm going to take it out for about an hour tomorrow and see if I have any more problems. Thanks for the help fellas. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2014 - 04:50 pm: |
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Went out for a ride this morning. Within 2 minutes of ridibg. Brakes dragged to stop on their own. I was expecting this so I was cruising around at about 20 mph. No injury or lay-down, thank god. So out of desperation I said •••• it, I'll try taking off the brake lever. I dismissed this possibility from the start, stock levers, never had problems with them other than stiffness, and never messed with them. So I took the lever off and It rolled no problem. Rode it around a bit, no problems. I put them back on to test my theory. And brakes were locked up again. So There you have it. It's always going to be the least likely of solutions that mfix you up. I'll file my lever down a bit today. Anyone have any reccomendation on how much to file? |
Daddio
| | Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2014 - 01:59 pm: |
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Filing down your brake lever is only going to shorten the stroke of the lever; while it may temporarily fix your problem, it is not the solution.
It sounds more like the vent in the master cylinder is plugged; in order for fluid to return to the master cylinder after each 'pump' there is a tiny hole at the bottom of the reservoir that allows fluid to return. If this is blocked, every time you squeeze the lever, you're pumping fluid into the line. With no pressure on the lever, fluid is allowed to seep back into the master cylinder reservoir. If the hole is clogged, the pressure will continue to be present in the line and calipers, combined with heat, it will seize your brakes. I'm afraid you'll need to flush out the new brake fluid in the reservoir, being careful not to splash or spill on paint or plastic. In the bottom of the reservoir there should be at least one tiny hole; clean these carefully with a thin copper wire and brake cleaner, and back-flush as necessary. Chances are good that the return vent (or 'hole') is clogged with debris or contamination.
A master cylinder rebuild may be in order. |
Andersonhdj
| | Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2014 - 02:52 pm: |
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This is one of those things you don't bodge right - in fact there is nothing that should be bodged.
Leave the lever alone and attend to the bleed hole - it's almost certainly blocked as described.
It needs to work as it left the factory.
Kepp a bucket of warm soapy water and a soft cloth on hand to clean accidental splashes off your paintwork , just keep it clear of your reservoir , brakefluid is generally hygroscopic!
(Message edited by andersonhdj on June 08, 2014) |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2014 - 03:17 pm: |
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Did you replace the stock lever with the wrong aftermarket lever? If so, it can (like Andersonhdj says) keep the bleed hole blocked and cause exactly what you describe. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Sunday, June 08, 2014 - 11:44 pm: |
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I filed down my lever only slightly, maybe 2 milimeters. Which gave them just a little wiggle room. As it was pressing down on the master cylinder plunger. Which was causing just a slight scraping on the rotor. However my problem persists, which blew my mind after my experiment with lever on/lever off. I think yall are right when you say it's the return hole in the master cylinder. I had to bleed my brakes today to be able to ride home today (cautiously). When changing my brake fluid I did notice quite a bit of flakes and particles floating around which I removed with a few Q-tips. Tomorrow I'll get some thin copper wire like you reccomended and poke out the holes in there. And update afterwards with good news hopefully.
Oh, and they are stock levers.
(Message edited by johnglover on June 08, 2014) |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Monday, June 09, 2014 - 07:59 am: |
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Your going to have to flush the fluid again if you have any floaters in the fluid. At least I would. Any solids will not be a good thing in a brake or hydraulic system. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 07:45 pm: |
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Ok, so I poked out whatever gunk was plugging the little hole in the master cylinder. Is it supposed to spurt out brake fluid from that hole when the lever is pulled? |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 08:10 pm: |
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A little, if you do it quickly. |
Johnglover
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 08:25 pm: |
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Ok good. Yeah it didn't do it before of course because itwas plugged. But either way. SUCCESS!!! I feel bad forthe old-timers didn't have this luxury. This place so far has fixed my blinkers, intake boot, bead leak, brake light, and now brakes. Thanks guys. |
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