| Author | Message | ||
     Jason222001 |
Hello, I've recently purchased a 2002 blast with 2450 miles and nothing wrong with it. It was not a riders edge bike. I bought the bike to learn on as I'm a beginner. I've only ridden it for 30 miles, all in a parking lot in 2nd or 1st (never even seen 3rd). I have not dropped it or run into anything. As I was riding it I suddenly felt the throttle get loose (had to pull a couple inches before it started to feed gas), and heard a chattering in the front end. It wasn't bad but I took it home immidiately. When I got home I realized that the clutch side motor mount bolt has sheared. The bolt sheard just below where the threads start less than a mm. I didn't even ride over any bumps or potholes. I checked out the rubber isolator and its not cracked anywhere. I looked at the "do not remove" bracket closely and its clean and looks good as new. My question is : since I will have to get the old out, is it easier to try an extraxtor and risk getting it stuck? Or should I pull the head, and use a dremmel to slot it out so I can use a screwdriver like others have done? Just bought the bike, a years worth of insurance, and registered it and I'm pretty tapped out on $ for awhile so I can't afford to just pop on a new head if I mess this one up. I honestly thought I'd get a little more than 30 miles on the bike before I had issues like this. Can't figure out the cause. I've ordered the OEM bolts from HD. Any further advice is greatly appriciated! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
DO NOT USE AN "EZ-OUT" or any other extractor. You will have to pull the head if you do. Everything else can be done on the bike. Sometimes the bolt can be unthreaded using a hammer and punch. Some can weld a nut to it and pull it out that way. You can carefully drill it out, one drill size at a time until it can be tapped out with a hammer and punch or simply removed (if you're really good and have a good eye, its easy. Most of us don't, unless its off the bike. It can be done. If you decide to drill it out I would highly recommend using reverse drill bits. That way if they even grab a little, you'll be unscrewing the bolt. Just remember: DO NOT BREAK THE DRILL BIT. Much less risky than breaking an EZ-out, but its still hardened steel). Notching it with a dremel may also work, but I would recommend drilling a small hole in the center of the bolt first so if notching fails, you already have a pilot hole started. There are other ways to remove the bolt, but most not readily done still on the bike Follow the directions in the manual precisely when installing the new bolts and bracket. It happens. Your Blast might have had the old leaky rocket box gasket and someone removed that bracket to make it easier and botched the re install. Or you just "got lucky". I've had those brackets off numorous times and I've never had a problem, but it does happen (not commonly, but it does). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Again: DO NOT USE AN EZ-OUT or any hardened steel extractor.* Otherwise we'll be seeing your head for sale on eBay. *yes, some get lucky with them and those with extensive experience with them use them without remorse, but mostly they lead to more trouble. | ||
| Ezblast |
Probably one of the few things the Navy taught me well, because on an old Carrier the bolts are old and rusty - even with preventive maint. - they where common - lol EZ | ||
| Titusand |
The core problem may be the rubber mount on the frame below the steering, there is one, and they fail. My guess is that part failed, which caused the 2nd part to fail. Do not ride this bike anymore. When that rubber mount failed on mine it was a $500 repair. Apparently the newer rubber mounts are of a better design, because the old one failed at about 3000 miles, but the new one at 10,800 miles is still good. | ||
| Jon_webb |
I have noticed my drive belt seems to be riding against and even pushing on the plastic sprocket cover, is there anyway to adjust something to get the belt away from it and back to where it used to ride. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
No. Worn or bent parts is the reason. You could shim the sprocket away from the wheel. Or it might just be 'normal'. Some bikes do this and it's of no real concern. | ||
| Jon_webb |
Thanks for the reassurance, How do you know if the tie bars are adjusted right and if not how do you set them? Thanks in advance Jon | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Tie bars won't affect wheel and belt alignment. The tie bars are a set adjustment and I've posted the specs here......somewhere. When I get home I'll look them up. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Factory tie bar length: Center of eye to eye: 4.771" Inside, eye to eye: 4.380" Outside, eye to eye: 5.142" Overall length: 5.858" Both tie bars are exactly the same. Including length and angle at which the bolt holes (eyes) face. Hopefully you didn't loosen the adjuster up. If you didn't, then please measure them. If you did, then use the above measurements. | ||
| Jon_webb |
Thanks again, I bought the bike second hand and just want to check everything out, before some nice long rides. Thanks Jon | ||
| Kdk102 |
I am trying to order bolts and washers for the do not remove bar as my clutch side snapped the local hd shop has the bolts in stock but the washers .2z they say are discontinued they said they have the .3z in stock but they look to be thicker from my research can I use the thicker ones or should I reuse the original ones. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can reuse all the old bolts and washers. | ||
| Kdk102 |
I'm planing on replacing both bolts as one snapped off in the head ill have my mechanic remove it in case it needs to be helicoiled that's a little beyond my expertise and once I start I won't be able to move it. |
