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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through May 31, 2014 » Intake seal woes « Previous Next »

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Deeds
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 08:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am trying to decide whether or not my seals are leaking. I've got less than 2k miles on the bike since I bought it, so I am not quite familiar enough to know if there's a real issue. It's sitting at around 33k now. The previous owner tells me that the seals were replaced twice with Genuine James seals. Doing a bit of research gives me a list of symptoms to look out for, which are...

- RPM spike when brake cleaner is sprayed on rear seal
- Reduced mileage
- Increased heat in the seat/balls
- 2k RPM hanging

So going down the list; when I spray the seals when they are good and hot, there's a very slight increase in RPM. The bike idles at around 900-950, the spray brings it to about 1k a couple of seconds after. It's not really a violent increase that I've be led to believe from reading about this issue with other XB12 owners. Otherwise, the bike idles really well when warmed up

Reduced mileage; I get about 120-130 when riding with a healthy mix of relaxed commuting and ride-it-like-you-stole it. Doing some (rough) math, I average in the upper 30 MPG. I know "claimed" MPG is in the 50s, but doing some online research yields unhappy XB owners complaining of similar figures. If my seals were leaking, I'd imagine my MPG would be much, much lower.

Increased heat; not sure about this one. I know that the bike gets hot, especially at the right thigh. It doesn't seem excessive, even after 2 hours of nonstop riding in 80s. Nowhere on the seat do I feel it gets excessively hot. The fan usually comes on after 20 minutes of riding, and doesn't really turn until it's been sitting off for a good minute or two. Is it normal for it to be running this much?

RPM hang; the idle used to hang pretty bad when the engine got good and hot, until I brought down the idle rpm as recommended all over the net. Hasn't stuck at 2k since, BUT the needle slowly descends past 2k. It's not a consistent slow, either. It seems like it wants to hang there, but slowly goes down anyway. I almost feel as if there's too much fuel being injected on decel. I've seen a few videos of other XB12 bikes where the needle drops quicker.


So, given these observations, I assume that I have a leak, albeit minor. But what do you guys think? I'd rather not pony up big money to get a stealership to swap them out, and I don't have the technical prowess to do it myself. I've got a huge cross-country trip coming up very soon, and if replacing these seals mean better mileage, the repair would pay itself off quickly.

I'd love to meet up with someone who'd hammer it out with me, but savvy Buell owners seem few and far between. If anyone wants to offer a hand, let me know. Maybe I could make it out there!
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What year is your Uly? Since you reset your idle it must be an '06 or '07. A kind of rough cold start up idle is normal for these bikes. They try to idle at the 950 rpm with just enrichment from the ECM. It is not unusual for these bikes to have a fouled plug from unknowing riders who start and rev the engine cold. Best to get it to fire up and not touch the throttle for a couple of minutes even in warm weather.

Inspect your spark plugs. If they are at all wet/black replace them no matter how new.

Is the little cap on the above the throttle plate port on the right side of the throttle body? Most are gone, the port is for emissions stuff that most do not need. It is not a vacuum leak because it is above the throttle plate but it could have injested your test carb cleaner enough to affect your test.

Sounds like I would start with a throttle plate cleaning and a TPS reset. After you do that you may need to bring the idle down as close as you can to another 20 rpms or so to keep the idle from that 2000 rpm hanging. I is a good idea to lube the throttle cables and the clutch cable to.

Your heat observation sounds completely normal.
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Deeds
Posted on Thursday, May 08, 2014 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's an 07 with the race ECM. Cold starts are okay, much shakier than normal, but not enough to stall unless it's cold outside. The rpm just drops slowly once the engine is up to temp, without totally hanging at 2k.

I will do a TPS reset tomorrow. I think I will have a hard time making such small idle increments. The ECM Spy readout jumps wildly between 900-1000. Is this normal?


Also, a thought... would leaking intake seals rob engine power? I've heard time and time again that this bike is a wheelie machine, and will power wheelie with ease in 1st or 2nd gear. I've been wot plenty of times in 1st and 2nd, and while the front feels a bit light, it won't wheelie. I can only pop it up with the clutch in 1st. I'm not a heavy guy, either.

(Message edited by Deeds on May 08, 2014)
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Etennuly
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 12:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It is hard to get a good idle speed within +- 200 for sure, you kind of have to guess and average it out. This ain't no sewing machine at idle!

Make sure to check the throttle plate for carbon and a good closed fit to the throttle bore before setting the TPS. The setting must be done with a warm engine.

The intake seals can cause high idle, loss of power, and lower fuel mileage as you have described. So will partially fouled plugs with a compensating idle setting.

Check those spark plugs. They are the story teller. If you have an intake leak on one side it will show on the plugs as over heated no deposits, or crispy deposits, at all verses a little gray/brown/black residue. If you do not have an intake leak the plugs will be normal, leaning to black fouled.

My bike will pick the front tire with only throttle input in first gear, won't do it in second. I run it up to 3500 rpm, hold it there for a second and crack it wide open. I don't have to lean back or pull back on the bars at all. Need to whack it open fast.
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Mhevezi
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Deeds,

I had leaky intake seals on my M2 and they caused wild and loud popping and back-firing when coasting. If your bike is doing that or even starting to, might be a good idea to replace those seals. The seals are cheap, but the labor may be tough, in the XB frame.

Good Luck.
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Uly_man
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 05:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"RPM hang; the idle used to hang pretty bad when the engine got good and hot, until I brought down the idle rpm as recommended all over the net. Hasn't stuck at 2k since, BUT the needle slowly descends past 2k". This is a classic and needs the TPS done right. Had this myself on the 06 bike. The idle will NEVER be 100% solid even on a 10 bike. 200 rpm is nothing to worry much on but 100 odd is about right.

"The bike idles at around 900-950". Never EVER try and make this bike do that as it is way to low. 1050 is spec and min IMO.

Forget the mpg thing for the moment.

"Increased heat". Your bike is VERY good on that issue.

And if you have not done it yet a FULL service on the bike. Which would be ALL fluids, wiring damage check and make sure the Earth post on the sub-frame has been cleaned of paint. And, if it was me, new wheel bearings and spacers as well and a new AKF belt as well. Yes it is going to cost a few bucks but trust me it will be worth it in the long run.
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Luftkoph
Posted on Friday, May 09, 2014 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the rpm hang on my 06,but mine was injector seals,so if you replace your intake seals while your t/b is off pop those injectors out and replace all 4 seals,and yes it cured my woes
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Turf_moor
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 08:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When can I expect to have to change my intake seals on my Ulysses? My bike is an 06 and has 20K miles on it.
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Turf_moor
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 09:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uly man, AFK belt. Is that the drive belt you're referring to?
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Turf_moor
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 09:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And interesting you spend a lot of time on here, Uly man. I too prefer it to ukbeg
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you change them try these:

https://www.denniskirk.com/genuine-james/intake-ma nifold-to-head-seals-w-metal-ring.p149384.prd/1493 84.sku

The metal ring keeps them from distorting on the head. Use lubricant on all surfaces, even the outside since that's where the clamps go. The rubber needs to compress evenly or it will distort on the manifold sealing area. These finally cured my problems and have lasted a long time.
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Etennuly
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Uly_man, my '06 requires it's idle to be at 950 or so in order to avoid the "idle hang" situation. Been idling there for fifty thousand plus miles. No detriment yet.
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Kaikoura
Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2014 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=4130&cid=0&s=TMnewflange&a=&aname= Buell_and_Sportster_TM_New_Style_Intake_Flange
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Uly_man
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"No detriment yet". That is fine then. As said 1050 is spec and 100 odd is ok IE That could be 950 and mine would do that. The point is that there is a fine limit and 900 is just to low on this bike. But folk can do as the wish. I set my bike to run right and NOT what HD say anyway.
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50dro
Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2014 - 12:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you're in the States and want to go with the Twin Motorcycles flanges/seals, we have a few in stock and can get them to you quick.

LOOK HERE!>>>> http://www.5-0dro.com/index.php/specials/twin-moto rcycles-intake-flanges-detail
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