| Author | Message | ||
     Deanh8 |
How many of you guys have done competitive road racing with a stock swing arm? how has it worked out for you? I want to start racing locally, AFM, but cannot afford a swing arm (not in stock either) My bike is powerful not sure how violent it would be with the short wheel base. (Message edited by deanh8 on May 07, 2014) | ||
| Kruizen |
Other with more experience than me will chime in. Is it the ideal situation "NO" will it work "YES" I can typically hold my own in most classes using stock swing arm/belt drive. Would having the chain and longer swing arm be a benefit - Yes | ||
| Jdugger |
I did it for a while with the belt drive. The list of disadvantages of the belt drive for racing is pretty long, but among the novice ranks I'd say your skill as a rider is more important than any of them. The biggest challenge will be getting some stability out of the bike because it's so short. It can also be challenging to get set up with taller race tires (180/60 and 190s) on a stock wheelbase, and adding ride height will come at the expense of wheelbase, another frustration. Personally, I think you can ride around the lack of gearing options, at least as a novice. All that said, I did run the belt drive my first couple of years of racing. Looking back on it, I wish I had prioritized the chain drive ahead of other work I had done on the bike, specifically motor work. So, as you DO start to look at upgrades, put the chain kit high on the list. It solves a lot of problems with this bike. But, until then, go racing with what you have, and have a ball. If you are short on money, buy the very best tires you can afford above all else. | ||
| Rodrob |
Dean - just go race! Since I am selling my 1125R track bike, I took it out at at track day over the weekend to shake it down and make sure everything is good. It has the belt drive and within a lap or two I completely forgot about it and had a ball. There is so much to learn before you need to be concerned about the belt. The beauty of the wide torque band of the 1125R is that gearing is not as critical as on a bike with a narrow power band. With due respect to Jdugger - I would put the chain drive second to last on the upgrade list just above the motor. My upgrade list would be as follows - 1 - EBR Front Rotor and 2015 Pads 2 - Radial Master Cylinder 3 - Steering Damper - linear not radial 4 - Upper Triple Clamp and Clip On bars 5 - Race Exhaust and ECM 6 - Rear Shock - Penske if you can afford it. The Showa from EBR is great for the price. 7 - Fork Cartridges - AK Gas, AK 20, BPF Showa from EBR 8 - Fanless race bodywork 9 - Chain Drive Swing Arm 10 - Engine Mods Of course this is all dependent on what you are experiencing on the track. If you're having trouble with corner entry over corner exit, you might want to do the forks before the shock, for example. Just go out and have fun! PS - As Jdugger said - race tires are a necessity, not an upgrade option. (Message edited by rodrob on May 07, 2014) | ||
| Crowley |
Rodrob, I know nothing about radial steering dampers, so I curious why you prefer linear dampers to radial ones? I was considering one for my 1198 Ducati that used to slap a bit on the power when exiting bumpy corners. I've tuned this out with the K-Tech rear shock, but I really want to upgrade the (not very good) standard damper. Your advice would be appreciated. | ||
| Crowley |
Rodrob, I know nothing about radial steering dampers, so I curious why you prefer linear dampers to radial ones? I was considering one for my 1198 Ducati that used to slap a bit on the power when exiting bumpy corners. I've tuned this out with the K-Tech rear shock, but I really want to upgrade the (not very good) standard damper. Your advice would be appreciated. | ||
| Jdugger |
I'd put most of Rob's advice ahead of mine, actually. I was thinking more along the lines of the money I spent on extra wheels, pulleys, belts and so on that I sure wish I'd just nutted up and bought the chain drive sooner. The extra wheelbase is like a miracle. | ||
| Mackja |
I don't race, but I do a lot of track days, and I still run the belt. My mods have been just about what Rob recommends. I have upgraded to the new rotor, run 2015 pads, rs upper tree, Accossato brake and clutch master cylinders, LSL 1 inch rise clip-ons, EBR ECM, HMF exhaust, EBR fixed foot pegs, GP Suspension 25mm cartridge kit, Showa race rear shock, Ohlins steering Damper, AirTech bodywork, Dunlop USA N-Tec slicks, took a little bit of time to get it sorted out, but now it works great. I run in the mid 140's at Barber, not real fast but not bad for an old guy. No stability problems what so ever. (Message edited by mackja on May 07, 2014) (Message edited by mackja on May 07, 2014) | ||
| Rodrob |
I have a GPR radial on my 1125R and an Ohlins linear on my 1190RS. The linear feels just that, linear and smooth. The GPR does not feels constant through the stroke - softer in the middle, harder at the ends. Both my track and street bike exhibit this. Also the radial feels initially spongy, like there is air in it, so I tend to use more damping that I want to, which is as little as possible. So given the choice, I would go linear. But if it's radial or nothing, go radial. | ||
| Deanh8 |
My bike makes 150whp and has a Penske 3 way, AK20's, Full Fairings, EBR ECM, EBR Exhaust, 150whp, GSXR Master, EBR Rotor, EBR Pads, GPR Damper. Im on a super budget. Next race is May 31st I am really trying to be ready by then. Got some work to do. | ||
| Deanh8 |
I will be racing at thunderhill. | ||
| Smoke |
have fun with what you have. the only place i had trouble with gearing was Daytona coming off Nascar 4 to the tri oval. rev limiter issue. still gravitate back to 17/45 everywhere else. tim | ||
| Nikoff90 |
Thunder hill is insanly fun at least on TZ2050's, I am jealous. Buy the swing-arm if you have the money make due otherwise. The Buell will do fine on the track without the gearing changes. I found when I was racing AFM many riders are not using enough potential of their equipment for that to make a difference. Post us a video of turns 5/5A I think thats the turn I am remembering. | ||
| Nikoff90 |
Looks like they may have flattened it a bit or it looks different at higher speed. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uqC93yl9KfA | ||
| Rodrob |
I soooo want to run at Thunderhill! Sounds like you have everything you need. Go get 'em! | ||
| 99buellx1 |
I ran belt for the first two seasons, with very good success. I only bought the swingarm because I ran across a deal I couldn't pass up. The advice above is on point. My favorite thing about the chain setup is the ease of wheel changes, it's an amazingly simple process now, take all of about 10 seconds. | ||
| Deanh8 |
Can anyone recommend any starting geometry settings? Rear Shock length? Fork Height In Trees? (Message edited by deanh8 on May 09, 2014) | ||
| Nikoff90 |
Best thing I could recommend is get rebound and dampening set as well as possible go out and ride. Try to be consistent make notes as to where you find issues in handling work on the things that become safety factors note what you did and what happens on track "going to make you crash if you increase speed and are off race speed" ride through the rest. Be nice to the other riders AFM is a club of mostly working people, don't be the guy running people off the track. I was actually on the track and saw one novice on a liter bike take out 3 riders before crashing himself out 3/4 of the way around the first lap of his first race, he got meatball flags but never made it around the track to pit if he even saw them through his tunnel vision. Study the fast riders on similar class bikes to see what to do also watch the slower riders and learn what not to do, Calculate what they are doing incorrectly in comparison to the fast riders are doing correctly, you will be surprised at some of the simple things that have great effect like body position and posture on a straightaway. Hope some of this makes sense I have no time to reread. | ||
| Jdugger |
Geometry is going to depend on the tires you run a lot. Also, you should measure forks from OC on the axle to a stable point like bottom of triple. Different fork internals will make a few mm difference in travel lengths, so forks-above-upper-triple isn't a stable measurement. I have some numbers from eons ago. I think these were with Pirelli tires, 180 rear, which has changed a bit since they went to the /60 race tire. * Front axle center to top of triple: 692mm * Free Shock Length 325-328 Those numbers worth what they cost you! | ||
| Mackja |
The belt will limit shock height, I set the Showa race shock at stock height, and lowered the front 3mm from stock position, I run Dunlop slicks, and it has worked very well for me. | ||
| Crowley |
Thanks R/R, that's just what I wanted to know. |
